Salt House, Cornwall review: Chic cube a 'flawless' B&B

White's just right ... Salt House's sleek exterior.

IT'S not often that a hotel (or, in this case, bed and breakfast) takes me by surprise. Delights me, yes. Disappoints me, sometimes. But it has been a while since I've arrived to check in somewhere and been excited to be there. Salt House in Cornwall has that effect.

It might have only two bedrooms but this sleek, contemporary property, on a hillside overlooking the bay of St Ives, packs a punch when it comes to location, service and sheer quality of stay. For a start, there's its appearance. Flawless. It's hard to think of another B&B that better personifies how far the category has advanced since the days of chintzy armchairs and nosy landladies. (Swan House in Hastings, England, is the only other one I've stayed at that comes close.)

Salt House is a white cube, not at all what you expect in a quiet residential cul-de-sac. All sleek lines, sharp corners and lots of glass, it has been renovated to within an inch of its life by its former graphic-designer owners, Alan and Sharon Spencer. The bedrooms, North and South, are upstairs (the Spencers live on the ground floor), both with huge balconies looking out to sea.

Local produce served for breakfast.

I was in South. Part of me wishes I was still there. With nearly as much living space as my own apartment, it was bright and airy, with pale oak floorboards and furniture by some of the leading names in design. Flashes of colour from a pair of red-felt armchairs (Ligne Roset's Pop design, since you ask) and cushions upholstered in reclaimed vintage flags add warmth to the minimal whiteness of it all.

But really, the room is all about "the view". Huge sliding doors open to a balcony with unobstructed vistas of water and sky. It's breathtaking. Admittedly, I was spoilt with the weather on the weekend I stayed – blue skies and sparkling water – but even on a grey day I would imagine it's pretty impressive. As a breakfast spot, the balcony is about as good as it gets, I reckon. Not bad for an early-evening glass of wine, either, handily supplied, at no extra charge, in the room's mini-fridge (along with freshly ground coffee, tea and what tasted like home-made biscuits). It's touches such as that, along with treats including goose-down pillows, a top-notch mattress and swanky bedlinen, which give Salt House a service edge that rivals several five-star hotels I've stayed in. Free Wi-Fi (you don't get that in many of London's priciest places), satellite TV, underfloor heating ... you just don't expect those things in a seaside B&B.

Salt House surpasses every expectation. Tempting though it may be to spend your whole stay luxuriating in your room, you would be missing out on some of the British coastline's loveliest spots if you didn't venture out.
Salt House sits on the coastal path – duck down the alleyway at the side of the house and you're there. Turn left, walk for 10 minutes through leafy, unspoilt countryside and you come out on Porthminster beach. Think Bondi but smaller and without the tacky seafront.

Five-star bedding.

The Porthminster Cafe & Restaurant (porthminster cafe.co.uk) is a must-stop spot for lunch, dinner or both. I had a Saturday lunch and a Sunday dinner. I'm only sorry I didn't manage to squeeze in a breakfast.

How can you resist a menu that offers grilled locally caught lobster, steamed locally caught mussels, hand-dived Cornish scallops and new-season Cornish asparagus?

It prides itself, as you can see, on organic local produce, right down to the wild garlic foraged from the coastal path.

Minimalist touches.

From Porthminster beach, it's a five-minute stroll into the centre of St Ives.

It's easy to see why this is one of Cornwall's most famous and popular towns. With its narrow cobblestone streets, quaint cottages and harbour complete with a working fleet of fishing boats, it's a postcard-perfect setting (if you ignore the slightly tacky seafront parade of Cornish pasty and fish-and-chip shops).

It's also a cultural hub, thanks to the legacy of the St Ives School, the group of painters who clustered in the town after World War II. Not only is their legacy to be seen in the sheer number of small galleries but most obviously in Tate St Ives (tate.org .uk/stives), opened in 1993. The gallery showcases both the work produced in St Ives from the 1920s onwards and contemporary Cornish artists.

It's well worth a visit – as is the nearby Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden (tate.org.uk/stives/hepworth). Probably St Ives's most famous artist, Hepworth lived and worked in the town from 1949 until her death in 1975. A wander through her sculpture-filled garden is a local must-do.

I can't think of a seaside weekend spot that offers such a breadth of activities. In 48 hours, I sunbathed on a golden beach, enjoyed lunch in the sunshine, visited a world-class art collection and burnt calories with a walk along the coast. And I got to start and end each day in one of the chic-est B&Bs imaginable.

Trip notes

Where Salt House, Venton Road, St Ives, Cornwall. 01736 791 857, salthousestives.co.uk. How much Bed and breakfast from £150 ($229) a night for two. Book early.

Top marks Stunning location, luxe comforts and a world-class view. I really don't have a single bad thing to say about the standard and quality of the room. No wonder Salt House has been awarded a five-star rating and Gold Award by Visit Britain.

Black mark Really splitting hairs here but the shower could do with more oomph. Also, with two female guests, maybe breakfast could be delivered to the room by Sharon rather than her husband? My mother's not used to a strange man walking in on her in bed — and then wanting to have a bit of a chat!

Don't miss Breakfast on the balcony is a treat. Then grab a Salt House beach towel and head to Porthminster Beach for a swim and lunch. If it's raining, the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden is a special spot.

The writer was a guest of Salt House.