Perfect score: You may not want to leave this good-value Hilton

The Hotel

Hilton Buenos Aires, Argentina

Don’t judge a hotel by its exterior.

Check-in

Perhaps Buenos Aires is a pit-stop as you journey onwards to trek Tierra del Fuego or cruise to Antarctica. Or perhaps you plan to explore the calles and avenidas of Argentina’s vibrant capital for your holiday. Whichever way you find yourself here, it’s easy to reach Hilton Buenos Aires from Ezeiza International Airport: simply pre-pay for your ride at the official taxi stand inside the airport. It takes 30–40 minutes to reach the hotel in the revitalised Puerto Madero neighbourhood that’s connected to the mainland via six short bridges. The hotel sits between a buzzy waterfront area lined with cafes and bars, and a 350-hectare ecological reserve that draws birdwatchers and nature-lovers.

The look

The lobby with Edgardo Madanes’ large-scale wicker sculptures.

While the 417-room hotel that anchored this newish barrio when it opened in 2000 exudes cookie-cutter vibes from the outside, upon entry that impression is upended. Artist Edgardo Madanes’ five large-scale wicker sculptures, channelling the cargo nets that once dangled from cranes in this former port district, dominate the vast glass atrium that was redesigned in 2017. Alberto’s Lobby Bar, with cosy gazebos and long banquettes covered in amethyst velvet, is the foyer’s focal point while a fine-diner and grab’n’go outlet sit to one side. If you score access to the eighth-floor executive lounge, it hosts breakfast and happy hour drinks and snacks overlooking the rooftop pool and sunset-gilded historic buildings.

The lobby and its bare are the focal point.

The room

I’m staying here pre- and post-Antarctica cruise so I experience both a renovated suite (the only one completed when I visit) and a deluxe room. My suite features a curved pistachio sofa with pink cushions, deeply sexy curves (mirrors, lampshades, coffee table, bedside chair and table), walk-in wardrobe and a double shower with a brilliantly simple push-button start. My deluxe room (all of them have received their glow-up) features the new pastel furnishings and a large mirror that makes the room feel more spacious. A few small clues – such as a scuffed entry door and older electrical outlets – hint at the original bones.

One of the revamped deluxe rooms.

Food + drink

If your ultimate BA fantasy involves devouring a juicy steak and a glass or two of fine Mendoza malbec, this is the hotel for you. Thanks to Argentina’s customary late dining hours, no-one blinks an eye at my post-flight 9.30pm reservation at in-house restaurant El Faro (The Lighthouse). I should be jetlag-weary after flying from Sydney via Santiago but instead I’m bantering with the quick-witted restaurant staff as my dream meal, along with empanadas (elevated with a squeeze of lime) and a charcuterie board, is set before me. The space also hosts the vast breakfast buffet. Sweet-tooths can drool over treats such as alfajores and dulce de leche.

Restaurant El Faro.

Out+about

Wander the barrio, which is lively on weekends but safe. Nearby Puente de la Mujer is a popular photo backdrop – the striking footbridge’s design channels the spirit of tango. Speaking of, if visiting on a Sunday, head further afield – via the San Telmo street fair sprawling along Calle Defensa – to Plaza Dorrego (2.4 kilometres away) to see open-air tango dancing. El Ateneo Grand Splendid, regarded as the “world’s most beautiful bookstore”, is 3.7 kilometres from the hotel.

The verdict

Foodies and design lovers might not want to leave this refreshed international hotel in one of Buenos Aires’ revitalised neighbourhoods.

Essentials

Deluxe rooms from $350 a night. Hilton Buenos Aires, Avenida Macacha Guemes 351, Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina. Phone [phone]. See hilton.com

The writer stayed as a guest of HX Hurtigruten Expeditions; and was upgraded by Hilton.

Our score out of five

★★★★★

Highlight

That view over Madanes’ suspended sculptures from the glass-walled elevators and walkways surrounding the atrium never grows old.

Lowlight

El Faro’s service, food and wine list are sublime but the restaurant’s blue-tinged lighting isn’t Instagram-friendly.