One of the world’s busiest airports gets a $2 billion upgrade

The airport

Denver International Airport (DEN)

Passenger Terminal Complex at Denver International Airport, designed by Fentress Architects.

The flight

United Airlines UA564 from Denver to Los Angeles

The arrival

The 10-metre-tall Blue Mustang outside Denver Airport is universally known as Blucifer.Credit: Luis A Jimenez, Jr

Denver International Airport is 40 kilometres from downtown, about 30 minutes by car and $US60 in an Uber. The approach is guarded by a bizarre, 10-metre-tall blue mustang sculpture with red eyes, known as Blucifer. Conspiracy theories abound since the artist who created the demonic horse tragically died when a piece of it broke off and hit him in his studio. For $US10 one way, you can avoid Blucifer’s curse and ride the A-Line train from Denver Union Station right to the terminal, a 37-minute ride.

For $US10 you can ride the A-Line train from Denver Union Station to the terminal.Credit: Colorado Tourism

I arrive by rental car, which means heading first to a sprawling parking lot a couple of kilometres away. All 12 rental car companies require a courtesy shuttle to the terminal. Nevertheless, as soon as I park in the line of returning vehicles, I’m swiftly greeted by an employee, leave the keys on the dash and hoist my bags onto a waiting bus. The process is stunningly smooth even though it adds 20 minutes to the journey.

The look

The pavilion-like roof utilises sustainable heating systems.Credit: Getty Images

A distinctive multi-peaked roof mimics Colorado’s Rocky Mountains with 34 Teflon fibreglass “tents” housing Denver’s unique passenger terminal complex. The design has won numerous architectural awards and still dazzles from where it sits at the adventure gateway to the Rockies, despite clocking its 30th birthday in 2025. Inside, the pavilion-like roof utilises sustainable heating systems and gives a spacious, airy feeling alongside walls of glass to let natural light in and break up hours of claustrophobic, temperature-controlled travel. Small portions are currently boarded up – but don’t feel obtrusive – as the airport undergoes a $US1.3 billion refurbishment known as the “Great Hall Program” to be completed in 2027.

Check in

It’s the age of unmanned check-in kiosks and a few self-service screens are stalled by a “loading” death spiral. I soon ask for human assistance anyway, because the 23-kilogram baggage limit on United Airlines won’t compute with the 30-kilogram limit I’ve been allocated by booking Denver-Sydney through Qantas as a Silver Frequent Flyer. A gruff employee quickly overrides the $US200 overweight charge, and my haul of heavy ski jackets and snow boots trundle off into the airport’s belly.

Security

The airport has added 17 new security screening lanes.Credit: Getty Images

Denver is the third-busiest airport in the US, serving more than 82.4 million passengers in 2024. The security lines, until recently, were notorious. Fortunately, the most important upgrades of the Great Hall Program are 17 new security screening lanes – all operating at rapid pace when I go through West Security Checkpoint. There’s a five-minute wait before I remove my coat, shoes, belt and a newly acquired cowgirl hat to go through. The most time-consuming process is getting to the actual gates - Denver airport has the largest land footprint in the US and it’s a 2.3-kilometre walk to the furthest gate. But the journey is straightforward via an automated underground train transporting passengers to A, B and C concourses.

Food + drink

I pop out at Concourse B where there’s a plethora of options with quick eats led by American juggernauts Chick-fil-A, Jamba Juice, Shake Shack, SmashBurger and Starbucks. Modern Market appears to be the healthiest option with salads, soups and sandwiches. Local Colorado brewery New Belgium Brewing keeps the boys on a buck’s weekend watered, while Denver’s legendary brunch diner Snooze A.M. Eatery serves all-day breakfast to the timezone-addled.

Retail therapy

Duty free includes the usual perfumes, makeup and alcohol stores alongside knickknacks and convenience items. The independent Denver bookstore chain of Tattered Cover Book Stores vies for my remaining American dollars. Alas, those end up going to a $US20 neck pillow after kicking myself when I realise I left mine in the hotel.

Passing time

Meet the Canine Airport Therapy Squad (CATS).

Having arrived at the rental car drop-off three hours before my flight, the meandering journey to my gate leaves little time before boarding. I’d otherwise check out the golf simulator on Concourse A, the express day spa on Concourse C, or make friends with the Canine Airport Therapy Squad (CATS) team of happy pooches and one feline trotting around. But for 20 minutes I’m fully content to log into the airport’s free Wi-Fi, sink into rows of padded seating in front of floor-to-ceiling glass and watch the sun set over the Rocky Mountains.

The verdict

My worst airport experience ever was in this very terminal 10 years ago on a public holiday, when I waited in a snaking security queue that filled the entrance hall and extended out the automatic doors into the snow. Today, recent upgrades make it one of the best. Security screening is no longer the Wild West and accessing Colorado’s four national parks and 28 ski resorts just got easier.

Our rating out of five

★★★★½

The writer travelled with assistance from Colorado Tourism.