Italy’s biggest train station is surprisingly well planned and easy

The station

Roma Termini Station (Stazione Termini), Rome, Italy. Station code XRJ.

The terminal entrance at night – watch for pick-pockets.Credit: iStock

The journey

Rome to Castel Gandolfo on the outskirts of the city. Train 20013 is a 40-minute, 22.5-kilometre journey operated by Trenitalia.

The departure

As the largest station in Italy and the fifth-largest in Europe, Roma Termini has to be one of Europe’s best-equipped and most functional, with retail stores, dining spots, gelato and paid-for luggage storage. It may seem daunting, but the station is well signposted and if you’re arriving by taxi, it’s easy to navigate from the rank into the terminal. You can’t miss the large billboard displaying the departing trains and corresponding platforms on the ground floor as you enter. Staff hover around the gates to the concourse and are very helpful. Often the platform won’t be displayed until the last minute, so keep an eye on the board for any updates. Tickets are available at vending machines inside the station, but the easiest option is to buy in advance at sites like lefrecce.it

The station concourse.Credit: iStock

Safety + security

The Eternal City is generally very safe, however pick-pockets and petty crime are common in tourist areas with confused passengers often the target, so don’t let that new Italian leather handbag out of your sight. The general public cannot access the platform without a ticket, which, when purchased online, will be displayed as a QR code or barcode on your phone. Heavily armed police scattered around the station provide an element of relief.

Food + drink

Sweet breakfast at Roma Termini.Credit: iStock

Gelato. Sushi. Polpetta panini. You name it. Roma Termini is a dining destination unto itself. As well as casual venues serving up pizza (Alice Pizza) and Neopolitan street food (Rossopomodoro) on the ground level of the terminal, there’s well-known chain Eataly and a selection of bars and cafes upstairs, including Numa Al Banco Cafe for bologna and mortadella paninis and Sushi Daily if you couldn’t possibly fathom another pizza.

Retail therapy

There’s not much you can’t buy here. As well as a large bookstore (Borri Books) for something to read on long train journeys, you can splash cash at Levi’s, Nike or Moleskine. Pick up streetwear at Snipes and on-trend slides and sandals at Espradilles. For emergency euros, a Forex Exchange is among the retail stores on the ground level.

Passing time

There are few things better to do in Italy than eat, and the same applies here in the unlikeliest of places. The upper level has plenty of sit-down restaurants to pass the time and Borri is also useful time-killer. If you’re busting to use the toilets on the upper level, you’ll need to pay for access at the automated gates with a €1 coin.

Boarding

All trains depart from the ground level and passengers must scan their tickets to gain entry. Platforms are clearly signposted and if you’re lost, staff are kind and eager to assist. Boarding is all very civil on this particular journey – most passengers are day-trippers and travelling without the nuisance of luggage.

The verdict

Roma Termini handles nearly 500,000 passengers daily, but it doesn’t feel like it. This station is well planned, spacious and with excellent facilities. The sometimes tortuously slow platform updates can induce anxiety in pre-planners, but there are plenty of friendly local folk around to answer questions. The dining options will make you want to arrive at least an hour before your train.

Our rating out of five

★★★★½

The writer travelled at her own expense.