Greek seaside stay isn’t luxe but you’ll feel like you won the lottery

The hotel

Hotel Marianna, Nafplio, Greece

On the terrace at Hotel Marianna.

Check-in

Nafplio is on the eastern side of the Peloponnese Peninsula, and its old town spills down a steep hillside, so I approach the hotel from above (where I’ve parked my car), not below. It’s a glorious entry: I head through an ancient arch and down a wide, stone stairway that leads to the hotel. Approaching reception across a large terrace delivers a “wow” moment. Not just because of the receptionist’s effusive greeting (“Welcome! Have a home-made lemonade and then we’ll fetch your luggage”), but also because of the view. Spread beyond is a collage of terracotta roofs, Ottoman minarets, neoclassical buildings and the blue ocean water of the Argolic Gulf.

The look

Painted bright yellow and terracotta and trimmed with green shutters, Hotel Marianna, a Venetian-style building, is nestled just below the Akronafplia, Nafplio’s oldest of three fortresses. Guest rooms are in two main buildings with their levels connected by a series of staircases. Upper level rooms have views, while those on the lower level surround a pretty courtyard and overlook the lane below. Owned by four brothers of the Zotos family, and named after the hotel founder and elderly matriarch, Kyria Marianna, Hotel Marianna is spic ’n span and beautifully maintained.

The room

A double room at the hotel.

It doesn’t pretend to be high-end luxe, yet the hotel offers a lovely balance of charm and comfort. In addition to “regular”-style rooms, there are maisonettes with a small kitchen, plus atmospheric stone-walled rooms. All rooms, which are cosy, yet delightfully unfussy, have a built-in wardrobe, small table-cum-desk and large, wall-mounted, TV screen. Some bathrooms (they vary in size) are tight for space, but honestly, you’re not here for the combination shower (though it has those, too). Bonuses include a fridge and tea and coffee facilities.

Food + drink

The breakfast selection.

The only meal offered here is a buffet breakfast that guests enjoy on the expansive terrace. The spread contains pites (pies) – spanakopita and tyropita – made daily by a family member. Other treats include rigozalo (rice pudding) and Greek cakes, plus a spread of cheese, local hams and boiled eggs. Feta, olives and tomatoes are staples, as are the most exquisite local oranges. The house-made orange marmalade, a delightfully zesty and sweet concoction, is perfect drizzled on Greek yoghurt and fresh bread. Coffee and tea are in urns, although Greek coffee is available on request.

Out + about

Situated in the heart of Old Town Nafplio, this spot is ideally located to walk down the several flights of ancient stone stairs to explore town. Grab a coffee and people-watch from a ringside café on Syntagma Square, the main plaza, before browsing the Archaeological Museum, the waterfront, and the many boutiques in the bougainvillea-covered alleyways. If you’ve got the energy, tackle the 900 or so steps to the Palamidi, a spectacular citadel that provides bird’s-eye views of town.

The verdict

In a town full of sleek, boutique options, this charming family-run hotel stands out for daring to be itself, with old-style hospitality, where nothing is too much bother. The owners’ simple wish is for all their guests, whatever their age, to have the best stay possible. It’s the type of place that sees repeat guests, and where newcomers feel they’ve won the lottery, such is the price to quality ratio.

The essentials

Double rooms €100-€125 ($175-$218) a night. No accessible rooms. Ilia Potamianou 9, Nafplio. See hotelmarianna.gr

Our score out of five

★★★★★

Highlight

The filoxenia (hospitality) ensures a distinct experience, along with the unique setting and views from the terrace.

Lowlight

If you haven’t called ahead (staff will meet you on their motorbike), it can be a tough climb up many steps hauling luggage to reach the hotel.

The writer travelled at her own expense.