PENNY-PINCH
Start the day in the hip neighbourhood Mokotow at what some declare Warsaw's best cafe, Relaks, for espresso and scones (facebook.com/kawiarniarelaks; $6). Grab a one-day public transport pass (ztm.waw.pl; $5) and take the 180 bus towards Old Town. This city's charm is in its resilience, and although Old Town is a recreation of what was there before the war, it tells an important story. Lunch on dumplings, at Pierogarnia na Bednarskiej (pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl; $7), after which you will need a walk. Head to leafy Royal Lazienki Park, where from May to late September you can catch free piano recitals (noon and 4pm on Sundays) (kulturalna.warszawa.pl). Spend the afternoon watching people on Nowy Swiat. Dine at Kamera, where you can get duck with apples and cabbage for $15. That gives you change for a beer (kameralnafoksal.pl; $20). Rest at the Mercure Warszawa Grand (mercure.com/warsaw; $84).
TOTAL: $122
EASY DOES IT
Pop into popular Cafe 6/12 for morning sustenance (612.pl; $15). Warsaw's new Museum of the History of Polish Jews is scheduled to open in the northern autumn (jewishmuseum.org.pl). It is in the heart of the former ghetto. Take a Jewish heritage tour to get the most out of the experience (staypoland.com/warsawtours/wjewish.asp; $64). Splurge a bit on lunch, because you are in a historic orangery, now Belvedere in Royal Lazienki Park (belvedere.com.pl; $50). Spend the afternoon in pursuit of some famous Poles - the Chopin Museum is fantastic (chopin.museum; $8). St Anne's Church is a monument to Pope Jean Paul II, while the Presidential Palace has a history almost as complex as Poland's (president.pl). Dine in Old Town at famous Fukier (ufukiera.pl; $75). Built in 1989, the glitzy Marriott is a monument to new Europe. Finish the night with a vodka cocktail in the 40th-floor bar ($12) before you rest in a room below (marriott.com/wawpl; $120).
TOTAL: $344
SPLASH OUT
Breakfast at fresh, chic and hip Qchnia Artystyczna in Ujazdowski Castle (qchnia.pl; $30). Take a four-hour private walking tour exploring the Warsaw of your choice: Jewish heritage, war history, music or contemporary (warsawtour guide.com; $133). Lunch is at Restauracja Rozana, which serves a lighter take on a traditional Polish menu and has a fabulous wine list. Housed in a villa and full of flowers, it is pretty and romantic (restauracjarozana.com; $100). Teatr Wielki, the main theatre in Warsaw for opera, ballet and classical music, hosts the world's finest. Catch a performance (teatrwielki.pl; $80). Dine at Michelin-starred Atelier Amaro, a slow-food stunner (atelieramaro.pl; $150). Retire for the evening at elegant 110-year-old Le Meridien Bristol, with its stunning art deco touches and wonderful art. It survived the war by being a Nazi HQ. (starwoodhotels.com; $350).
TOTAL: $843
The writer was a guest of Travel the World and Emirates.
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