Travel tips & advice for Zagreb, Croatia: The nine things you should do

The Church of St Mark in St Mark's Square. Credit: iStock

THE ONE RIDE

Measuring just 66 metres, the city's antique funicular is one of the shortest in the world, but still delightful. The service, which connects the Lower and Upper towns, runs daily every 10 minutes. Built in 1890 the mechanical marvel was fully restored in the 1970s and includes the original two cable cars. A one-way adult ticket is 5 HRK (about $1.10), departing from Tomiceva Street. See zet.hr/en

THE ONE CHURCH

While dwarfed by the city's massive cathedral, the 13th-century St Mark's Church in Zagreb's picturesque Upper Town (Gornji Grad) is equally appealing and pretty hard to miss thanks to its colourful tiled roof, which features the coats of arms of both Croatia and Zagreb. The splendid gothic interior features a distinctive vaulted ceiling and several dramatic murals. See absolute-croatia.com

THE ONE CAFE

There are umpteen hip coffee joints in Zagreb, but nowhere can match the sense of history of MK Krolo, a tiny establishment just off the city's main square. The cafe, named after the writer Miroslav Krleza, seems to have changed little since the days of Marshall Tito, with its timber benches and steel topped bar. Order an espresso and drink in the atmosphere.

THE ONE MARKET

A fixture of city life for 80 years, the vibrant Dolac Market is packed with every conceivable type of fresh produce, from homemade cheeses to local Croatian honey. At street level you will find colourful stalls groaning with fresh fruit and vegetables, while the atmospheric basement contains a range of butchers, cheese mongers, florists and bakeries. The market operates daily from early morning until lunchtime. See visitzagreb.hr

THE ONE UMBRELLA

As evening falls, locals and tourists alike head for one of the city's many pavement bars. Protected by huge all-weather umbrellas, they are ideal for a spot of people watching while you nurse a chilled glass of beer or wine. Located on Bogoviceva ul, Vinyl Bar doubles as a live music venue and a hip cocktail bar, with a selection of 50 whiskies. Explore the bohemian interior spaces, or just kick back under the umbrellas with some cool jazz and your favourite tipple.

THE ONE MUSEUM

Anyone who thinks waterboarding is the height of cruelty should inspect the collection of equipment at Zagreb's Museum of Torture. Housed in a dimly lit upstairs space, the museum contains the full repertoire of pain – from thumbscrews to a life-size replica of a guillotine. The exhibition includes graphic audio and text descriptions. Entry is just 40 HRK (about $8.76). See tortureum.com

THE ONE RESTAURANT

No one goes hungry in Zagreb, but finding somewhere really special takes a little more effort. Tucked away in a side street packed with other eateries, Ristorante Carpaccio is in a class of its own, serving delicately marinated fish and a good selection of pastas, risottos, meat dishes and vegetarian options The wine list includes well-priced vintages from Slovenia, Croatia and Italy. Service is crisp and the decor old school, with linen tablecloths and silverware. See ristorantecarpaccio.hr

THE ONE BEDROOM

Zagreb is celebrated for its hidden courtyards and located down one of these is the Hotel Jagerhorn, an elegant boutique property with just 18 rooms and its own cafe. Remodelled in 2015 the hotel is richly furnished with antique books, handpicked textiles and quirky artwork. Despite its central location, the hotel is whisper quiet. The tariff of 694 HRK ($152) includes a generous buffet breakfast. English-speaking staff ensure a hassle free experience. See hotel-jagerhorn.hr

ONE MORE THING

No visit to Zagreb is complete without wandering along Tkalciceva Street. The city's liveliest precinct is packed with shops, bars, cafes and restaurants. Once home to most of the city's brothels, the beautifully preserved street is now a fashion hub with plenty of up-market boutiques and specialist outlets. The precinct hosts regular outdoor events, including a military parade on Sundays. Look out for the statue of Mary Juric Zagorka, a famous Zagreb journalist. See visitzagreb.hr

Mark Chipperfield travelled as a guest ofCrow's Flight. See thecrowsflight.com