This is one of our greatest experiences – so why isn’t it more famous?

They are the words every swimmer dreads hearing. Yet when one of my companions yells “Behind you!” at me, I ignore them. For one thing, I know that in this sheltered lagoon, I’m in no danger. More importantly I’m mesmerised by the sight of three sea lions cavorting barely a metre in front of me, cutting gleeful curves through the clear, shallow water.

Here’s looking at you.Credit: Edgar Pacific Photography

“Behind you!” comes the call again, more insistent this time. I flip around to find another sea lion heading straight for me. It skims beneath me, just a centimetre or so below my stomach, and as it turns I swear it grins back at me as if to ask, “Did I scare you?”

As far as wildlife experiences go, frolicking with a dozen or more wild sea lions takes some beating. The playful creatures tease each other, and us, by gliding, corkscrewing and even leaping through the water. An hour flies by.

The playful creatures tease each other, and us... an hour flies by.Credit:

But when we eventually say farewell to the sea lions of Jones Bay, huge grins plastered across our faces, our adventure isn’t over. We take a quick boat ride to another corner of the bay where we hop back in the water and frolic with a friendly pod of wild dolphins.

Swimming with dolphins in Baird Bay.Credit: SATC

This extraordinary ocean tour is one of the most memorable animal encounters in Australia, so why isn’t it more famous? For one thing, getting to this remote corner of the Eyre Peninsula is something of an adventure. Unless you organise a private flight transfer to Streaky Bay, the closest airport at Port Lincoln is a three-hour drive away.

For another, the tiny village of Baird Bay, where the ocean tours leave from, doesn’t have much in the way of accommodation: most of the other people in our group are campervanners on leisurely cross-country expeditions.

Room to spread out in the living area of the Eko villa.Credit:

As it happens, we get lucky: the boat that takes us on the 20-minute ride to Jones Bay leaves right outside our accommodation. After a million-dollar refurbishment, the rebranded Baird Bay Seaside Villas are not just the area’s newest lodging, but the most luxurious in this part of South Australia.

The two rammed-earth villas can be hired separately or together and operate on a safari lodge model, with one all-inclusive rate covering all meals and beverages as well as an extensive program of activities. Apart from getting up-close with marine mammals, you can take an e-bike or kayaking tour, go hiking, have a surf lesson, head out on a fishing charter or visit an oyster farm.

The spectacular beaches unfurl for 70 kilometres along the coast.Credit: Tourism Australia

“Our guests aren’t spectators, they are participants,” says Brendon Bevan, who runs the lodge with his wife, Kat. “It really changes the experience when you take people out and let them get their feet wet and their hands dirty, when you show them what something tastes like and smells like.”

Some of the most memorable experiences are the simplest. A seaside picnic on the area’s spectacular beaches, which unfurl for 70 kilometres along the coast, is a guaranteed highlight.

Cosy comfort in the guest bedroom.Credit:

The two villas have seven bedrooms between them, making them ideal for family groups, but the exclusive booking system means that even if you are travelling as a couple, you can book an entire villa for the same per-person cost as a larger group.

One tip: when you put together your program, be sure to build in downtime. The setting itself is ridiculously tranquil, looking out across the bay where large flocks of pelicans gather, but Baird Bay Seaside Villas’ secret weapon is its chef, Calvin von Niebel.

Seafood spread on a tour lunch.Credit:

Don’t let von Niebel’s unassuming demeanour fool you. This man has some serious culinary chops. He was formerly group executive chef of Yotam Ottolenghi’s culinary empire – and his sophisticated yet simple menus are among the highlights of our stay.

“Our guests are here to experience nature, so the food reflects that,” he says. Your menu may include crab fritters made with blue swimmer crabs from Streaky Bay, whiting caught in front of the lodge, and Sceale Bay bluefin tuna ceviche.

Sitting by a waterfront campfire feasting on fresh-from-the-sea Smoky Bay oysters topped with nam jim as the sunset paints the sky and sea in rich golden hues: now that’s a true feast for the senses.

The details

Stay
A stay at Baird Bay Seaside Villas includes guided safari experiences, and full board including gourmet dining and a premium selection of wines, beers and spirits, as well as transfers from Streaky Bay. From $2000 a person a night (minimum two people, two-night stay). See bairdbay.com

Tour
The sea lion and dolphin tour operates from August to June. It is included in a stay at Baird Bay Seaside Villas, or can be booked separately for $325 a person. See bairdbay.com

Fly
Qantas and Rex fly from Adelaide to Port Lincoln. See qantas.com, rex.com.au

The writer was a guest of South Australia Tourism (southaustralia.com) and Baird Bay Seaside Villas.