This European capital is a modern fairytale

Sweden’s capital city is a modern fairytale where the old and the new coexist happily in a smorgasbord of cobblestoned alleyways peppered with ancient buildings, designer-led shopping streets and the charming, slightly old-fashioned ships that ferry locals and tourists around the 14 islands that make up this Baltic Sea archipelago.

The old and new combine in Stockholm.Credit: iStock

It is home to a 13th-century cathedral, a royal palace, the Nobel Museum, the stunning restoration of the famous Vasa warship, and the ABBA museum. But that’s just scratching the surface of this low-key but fascinating metropolis.

Where history comes alive

Skansen’s annual bonfire festival, Walpurgis.Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Skansen is a large open-air historic and cultural museum showcasing Swedish houses, animals and traditions. There are replicas of old wooden homes and buildings as well as locals playing traditional characters such as weavers, ironmongers, and bakers. Evening events throughout the year include maypole dancing on Midsummer’s Eve, a bonfire festival on Walpurgis Eve and a Christmas market. See skansen.se

Have a ferry nice day

Stockholm is the perfect city to see by boat, especially at night when everything is beautifully lit. Line 80 is popular and plies between Nybroplan and Frihamnen via the Allmanna grand stop, where you can hop off and wander peaceful Djurgarden City Park. The stop here isn’t far from the Vasa Museum, the Abba Museum and the Viking Museum. See sl.se

Picture perfect

An exhibition at Fotografiska, Stockholm’s photography museum on the Stockholm quays.Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

The Fotografiska gallery, an imposing red-brick building on the waterfront that was once part of the Swedish customs department, is now devoted to rotating exhibitions of extraordinary (at least when I was there) photography, art and culture. World-class, eclectic and disturbing – what’s not to like? If nothing else, go for the top-floor bar and cafe with panoramic views over the city. See fotografiska.com

Going underground

The Stockholm Art Walk covers five of the stations.Credit: iStock

The Stockholm metro is an artwork in itself. At 110 kilometres long, it’s said to be the world’s longest art exhibit. There are 100 stations, each with unique art on the walls, platforms and halls. Extraordinary and spectacular are over-used words but both are appropriate here. Radhuset Station, Kungstradgarden and Solna Centrum (dubbed The Mouth of Hell thanks to its fire-like design) are among the standouts. See visitstockholm.com

Food for thought

The recently renovated Ostermalms Saluhall.Credit: Getty Images

I stumbled upon Ostermalms Saluhall quite by accident, but it’s one to put on the must-do list, and can be found in the very heart of Stockholm’s city centre, not far from the Royal Dramatic Theatre. Housed in a wonderful old brick building from the late 19th century (and recently renovated), this beautiful food hall is full of food stalls with an astonishing array of produce, as well as cafes, bars and small but perfectly formed restaurants serving local delicacies. Lisa Elmquist seafood restaurant is a good place to stop for a feed or just to stare at the display of fresh fish, several of which look like Benny from ABBA. See en.ostermalmshallen.se

A devil of a time

Codex Gigas, thought to be the world’s largest medieval illuminated manuscript, on display in the National Library.Credit: Alamy

The Codex Gigas (giant book) is an illustrated, handwritten bible on display in the National Library of Sweden in the Humlegarden park. At 92 centimetres long, 50 centimetres wide and 22 deep, it’s the world’s largest known medieval manuscript. Said to be the labour of 20 or 30 years work for just one monk, its big claim to fame is the unexpected and vibrant illustration of the devil on one of its huge pages. Lots of myths and legends surround the book, but my favourite is how it was spared destruction from a fire by being lobbed out of a window by a vicar, where all 74.8 kilograms of it landed on a bystander. See kb.se

More food for thought

Subterranean Viking-themed restaurant and tavern, Aifur.Credit: iStock

If you’re going to do the Scandi thing, why not go the whole hog at Aifur, a subterranean Viking-themed restaurant-cum-tavern serving a modern take on medieval fare? Candle-lit with high ceilings and wooden benches, “Tore Hjort’s hunting prey with raw lingonberries” or “The Raven God’s Delight” can all be washed down with a bucket or two of mead. You might catch a song or two played by musicians on ancient instruments. See aifur.se

Old (un)Faithful

Old town square, Stockholm.Credit: iStock

Anyone who visits Stockholm will eventually make their way, quite rightly, to Gamla Stan (the old town). It’s a charming warren of streets full of shops, cafes and restaurants. Very few, however, will notice the carving at 44 Skeppsbron Street.

You may want to cover the kids’ eyes for this next bit. It was once the home of Carl Smitt, whose face you can see on the wall above the door. He had it placed there after he found out his wife had cheated on him. To get even, he had a replica of her lady parts placed beneath his own angry face. Something to tell the grandkids.

Colour by numbers

Anyone with a smartphone can control the colour of the lights of theTelefonplan metro station tower.Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Want to do your bit to light up the city’s skyline? Then head over to the Telefonplan metro station and seek out the 20-storey tower. Since 2016, anyone with a smartphone can control the colour of the lights in the upper windows using the Colour By Numbers app (available on Android and Apple). You can even choose a floor and create your own colour using a mixable RGB interface. Go wild, I dare you.

One more thing

The Spritmuseum, tucked away between the ABBA and Vasa museums, is dedicated to Swedish drinking culture. It’s also the permanent home to the Absolut Art Collection.

This year there is an exhibition about Sweden’s prohibition era, alongside its regular look at Sweden’s “bittersweet” and “complicated” relationship with alcohol. A sobering experience – until you get to the Tasting Trays of various vodkas, beers and spirits. There is a non-alcohol Tasting Tray, should that float your boat. See spritmuseum.se