The balmy Aussie town with something better than beaches

“You’re going to need these,” says Grace as she hands me a red pool noodle.

My friend, also a Katherine local, is visiting me at Nitmiluk Gorge Campground, 23 kilometres north-east of the Top End town, but her gift confuses me.

I hadn’t thought to pack pool accessories for a road trip in the Northern Territory. The region has a precarious coastline that few dare to dip into – there’s potential to get stung by jellyfish or encounter a snap-happy saltwater croc. And I’m travelling through the heart of the Territory, so why would I need a pool noodle?

Who needs beaches? The Katherine Hot Springs are situated on the banks of the Katherine River.Credit: Tourism NT

It turns out that beaches are not missed in Katherine, a town 320 kilometres south-east of Darwin. Water babies can get their fix at one of the many waterholes and natural springs spread across the region. A large limestone aquifer extends across sections of the state, with several outlet points around Katherine. Technically, many of the springs are not thermal but still sit at a pleasant 33 degrees – the ambient temperature of Top End groundwater.

For extra enjoyment, locals take to the water with all sorts of floating devices, though pool noodles seem to be the favourite. Shops and petrol stations in the region sell them for about $5. Given the amount sighted, I wouldn’t be surprised if Katherine has the highest rate of pool-noodle ownership in the country. Getting wet and wild with pool noodles is not a fad here; it’s a lifestyle.

Tropical utopia … a series of small, clear pools framed by native vegetation.Credit: Tourism NT

I begin my noodle conversion therapy at Katherine Hot Springs, a tropical utopia in the thick of town. Tall palms, pandanuses and broadleaf paperbark trees fringe the series of small clear pools, which form a snippet of the Katherine River.

Human heads and brightly coloured fluoro foam fingers are bopping up and down among the green. People are smiling, floating, loving life in warm waters.

I spot a council signpost that reads “Kill nothing but time”. I get it. It’s easy to linger when floating next to tropical gardens. There’s even a pop-up cafe in a red shipping container at the top of the park. But I stay in the water: the pool noodle is basically an adult pacifier keeping me calm and relaxed. Why had I not welcomed this toy into my life sooner?

Bitter Springs, set amongst palms and tropical woodlands in Elsey National Park.Credit: Tourism NT

But nowhere is the noodle more essential than at Bitter Springs, 100 kilometres south-east of Katherine in Elsey National Park. The winding waterway wouldn’t be out of place at a theme park: the aqua-clear, sandy-bottomed lazy pool shaded by lush woodlands is paradisial.

Yet, it’s also bizarre. Trekking through a landlocked national park with a pool noodle is strange, but it’s far more common to see people with one than without. And who am I to judge? I’m one of those people, converted and equipped with the hottest must-have accessory.

Tread water or go with the flow at Bitter Springs.Credit: Tourism NT

The current trend is chasing currents. I jump in with my new foam limb and immediately go with the flow. The narrow stream is packed with pool noodles. A floating device is almost necessary on this loop, unless you’re happy to do eggbeater kicks for 10 to 15 minutes in metres-deep water. Mind you, good exercise.

I consider my future side hustle of renting out pool noodles at national parks, as I spot people trying to stay buoyant, clutching tree branches as they make their way around the pool. I pity those who didn’t BYO noodle.

Life in the slow lane stops at a bridge cutting off further access down the stream. It’s a step, jump, float and repeat scenario. You may be stuck behind a scattered family one lap, and have it all to yourself the next. Pure bliss.

Mataranka is renowned for its sandy-bottomed thermal pool.Credit: Tourism NT

Mataranka Thermal Pool and Rainbow Springs are other regional favourites, six kilometres from Bitter Springs. Unlike Bitter Springs, people can enjoy a natural pool without tidal movements.

I mix warm swims with refreshingly cool dips at Leliyn (also known as Edith Falls) in Nitmiluk National Park. At the bottom of these falls is a massive natural pool, only 100 metres from the car park. Again, it’s a case of the double Ps – people and pool noodles – sighted.

Enjoy a dip just 100 metres from the car park at Leliyn (Edith Falls).Credit: Tourism NT

The fall’s upper pool is accessed via the 2.6-kilometre Leliyn Trail loop. It involves hiking on the escarpment, climbing stairs and walking across rocky terrain. Unsurprisingly, people do the trek with – you guessed it – pools noodles, to float by the waterfall.

En route back to Darwin, I stop at Berry Springs Nature Park. The park was once a recreational camp for the armed forces defending Darwin during World War II. Nowadays, people are armed with pool noodles at the park’s two pools and waterfalls.

One of Berry Springs Nature Park’s two pools.Credit: Tourism NT

It’s my final dip before I bid adieu to my new favourite pastime. But as I leave the springs, I notice a rarity – a family at the springs with no pool noodles in sight. Have they not caught onto the Territory’s secret weapon for a good time?

I give them my pool noodle.

“You’re going to need one of these.”

The details

Fly

Qantas, Virgin Australia and Jetstar fly directly to Darwin from most capital cities. See qantas.com.au; virginaustralia.com.au; jetstar.com.au

Stay

Rooms at Discovery Parks, Katherine from $135 a night. Two-night minimum in peak periods. Camping is also available. See discoveryholidayparks.com.au

More

northernterritory.com

The writer travelled courtesy of Tourism NT.