The ‘magical’ Mexican town that deserves more than a day-trip

Most people visit Todos Santos on a day trip from Cabo San Lucas, the fashionable resort city on the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja California Sur. Busloads of visitors make the one-hour drive north to spend a few hours exploring the town’s picturesque squares and bunting-festooned backstreets, browsing its art galleries and boutiques, and just generally having a break from the manicured luxury of Cabo’s high-rise resorts. Then, at 5pm, they leave, and the town all but shuts down, allowing its 7000 or so residents to savour the tranquillity that probably lured them there in the first place.

Todos Santos, Baja California, Mexico.Credit: Getty Images

I can attest to this firsthand because I’m one of the few visitors that has remained, choosing to spend two nights at the swish new Todos Santos Boutique Hotel. Housed in a handsome 19th-century brick building that was originally a hacienda for a Spanish countess, the 10-suite hotel is the town’s first centrally located luxury accommodation. Gorgeously decorated with rich fabrics, antiques and hand-painted murals, it’s also home to La Copa, an elegant speakeasy-style bar serving innovative cocktails, and 1890, an intimate French restaurant overseen by English chef Gaz Herbert, who worked at Michelin-starred London eateries Ikoyi and River Cafe.

Todos Santos Boutique Hotel is housed in a handsome 19th-century brick building that was originally a hacienda for a Spanish countess.

From these agreeable surrounds, I’m ideally placed to explore the town and learn why in 2006 the Mexican government deemed it so enchanting that it was awarded “Pueblo Magico” status.

Inside the Todos Santos Boutique Hotel.Credit:

On a walking tour with local artist and guide Max Uranga, we visit several of the town’s many art galleries, including Galeria de Todos Santos, which was started by Californian artist Michael Cope in 1994. Back then, the town was a ramshackle fishing village straddling the main road between La Paz and Cabo. Now it’s a magnet for artists, day trippers and expat retirees, who are peppering the surrounding hillsides with expensive homes. Inevitably, higher demand has brought higher prices. Cope shares the gallery with talented Mexican painter Erick Ochoa, but they will probably have to move because the building is on the market for $US4 million ($5.9 million).

Many of the town’s galleries are staffed by the artists themselves, so you get the rare privilege of interacting with them and occasionally watching them work. Style-wise, there’s everything from traditional Mexican pottery and modern block prints to abstract photography and contemporary sculptures. There’s plenty of public art, too, including colourful murals, mosaics and a series of dramatic scrap metal sculptures by Mexican artist Juan Sotomayor. On top of all that, the town hosts a week-long arts festival every February. In short, if you like art, you’ll like Todos Santos.

Predictably, the influx of artists has also attracted other creatives, such as REM guitarist Peter Buck, who started the town’s music festival in 2012. Now called the Tropic of Cancer Music and Arts Festival, the six-day event in January attracts musicians and visitors from all over the world.

A local market in Todos Santos.Credit: Getty Images

More visitors have also brought more restaurants, so while you can still get the region’s famed Baja taco, a simple tortilla filled with battered fish, cabbage and chipotle sauce, you’ll also find an increasing number of upscale eateries catering to international tastes. Standouts include Italian restaurant Tre Galline, seafood specialist Oystera and Jazamango, a delightful al fresco eatery from acclaimed Mexican chef Javier Plascencia.

The challenge for Todos Santos is preserving its “magical” appeal while it grows to accommodate more people. Most locals I speak to view the changes so far as positive, and everyone agrees that the one thing they don’t want to be is another Cabo. As Uranga puts it, “We have a lesson in what not to do just down the road.”

A beach near Todos Santos.Credit: iStock

The details

Fly

Delta Air Lines flies to Los Cabos via Los Angeles. Todos Santos is a 70-minute drive from Los Cabos International Airport. See delta.com

Stay

Well located near the centre of town, the recently opened Todos Santos Boutique Hotel has 10 individually styled suites, a stylish speakeasy bar, a destination French restaurant and a heated outdoor pool. From MXN14,245 ($1193) a room. See hoteltodossantos.com

Tour

Max Uranga’s art tour can be booked through Airbnb Experiences (search for Todos Santos). See airbnb.com.au

More

visitloscabos.travel

The writer travelled as a guest of Delta Air Lines, Los Cabos Tourism Board and Todos Santos Boutique Hotel.