The 12 must-dos in Melbourne this summer (and they’re not all at the AO)

Whether you’re in town for the tennis or just looking to make the most of the warmer weather and bumper events calendar, Melbourne has summer down to an art. (It also has art down to an art, with the launch of the NGV’s latest must-see extravaganza, but more on that shortly.)

Before that breezy holiday mindset dissolves in a puff of meetings and deadlines, here’s your window to squeeze in as many rooftop bevvies, art exhibitions, vineyard visits, seasonal market eats and waterside activities as possible.

A blockbuster exhibition

Sixty-five plane trees lining St Kilda Road in the heart of Melbourne have been wrapped in Yayoi Kusama’s trademark polka dots.Credit: Tobias Titz

If you’re wondering why the National Gallery of Victoria’s dignified facade suddenly looks like it’s developed a colourful case of measles, it’s to celebrate the eight-decade career of Yayoi Kusama (ngv.vic.gov.au), the Japanese artist renowned for her use of polka dots. It’s one of the most comprehensive retrospectives of the artist’s work ever displayed globally, featuring a record number of immersive artworks.

A laneway tour with a twist

There’s always something new to see in Melbourne’s laneways.Credit: iStock

It costs nothing to reacquaint yourself with the CBD’s kaleidoscopic backstreets, but if you’re after a tour with a bit more depth, Melbourne Culinary Laneway Experiences, run by local operator Mediterranean Wanderer (mediterraneanwanderer.com), offers private, bespoke laneway tours that showcase some of the city’s most iconic and underrated lanes through a historical and local lens. Founder and tour guide Paula Hagiefremidis wants visitors to get under the skin of her city. Over 3.5 hours, flit from bluestone laneways to an Italian artisan stationery store, to a clandestine cafe loft serving “magic coffee” on vintage sewing machine tables. Naturally, there’s plenty of food, coffee and wine along the way (because Melbourne). From $290 per person for a private tour. For bespoke tour bookings, email [e-mail].

A vineyard-hopping bus tour

Hop It has just relaunched its Mornington Peninsula bus tours out of the Melbourne CBD.

This is your official reminder that Melbourne is close to not one, but four different and very good wine regions, each specialising in its own unique varietals and blends, including the full-bodied reds of the Yarra Valley hinterland. Hop It Tours (hopit.com.au), which runs hop-on, hop-off bus services from the Melbourne CBD, has relaunched its popular Mornington Peninsula day route with a host of new stops. Hop between wineries, distilleries, breweries, a dairy, a lavender farm and more, from $89.95 per person.

Pickleball fever

Hilton Melbourne’s vibrant pop-up pickleball court.

America’s fastest growing sport is taking over Melbourne rooftops this summer with three separate pop-up pickleball courts. Head to Hilton Melbourne (hilton.com) for Sip and Serve Sessions 4pm to 9pm, with DJs and courtside cocktails and snacks at the Chateau La Gordonne lounge. The Rooftop at QT (qthotels.com) has partnered with Red Bull to launch its own sun-drenched court until March 3. Come Thursday to Sunday between 4pm and 8pm to play for prizes ranging from drink credits to an AO Live Red Bull experience featuring a night at QT Melbourne. Lastly, Hotel Fitzroy’s Japanese eatery Ichi Ni Nana Izakaya (ichininana.com.au) has also rolled out the astroturf for a summer of pickleball. Fuel up between hits with sumptuous sushi platters and sake cocktails.

A summer market tour

The Queen Victoria Market comes to life each Wednesday for the Summer Night Market.

Be sure to stop by the CBD’s much-hyped new Italian food hub, Il Mercato Centrale Melbourne (mercatocentrale.com.au). It’s the first Australian outpost – and the only outside of Italy – for the famed Florence-born market chain, deploying a simple concept: each stall must specialise in something different. It’s a concept that breeds deliciousness, but to truly appreciate the diverse offerings book a lunchtime spot with Flavourhood Tours (flavourhoodtours.com.au), and let founder Raffaela Ceddia guide you through the offerings, meeting producers and sampling everything from Italian wine and fresh burrata, to Napoli-style woodfired pizza. Visiting mid-week? Each Wednesday evening, from 5pm to 10pm, the Queen Victoria Market’s sheds transform into a pulsating food and entertainment hub for the Summer Night Market (thenightmarket.com.au) with street food, unique retailers and live performances.

Melbourne’s Med on the Yarra

Decor takes cues from the namesake Mediterranean island… poolside at Afloat Capri.

The latest iteration of Euro-style pop-up bar and restaurant Arbory Afloat has landed on the Yarra River. Reborn as Afloat Capri (afloat.melbourne), it takes cues from its namesake island – think stripey deck umbrellas, one absurdly photogenic plunge pool, and Italian classics like woodfired pizza, antipasto and seafood platters. After a more wholesome way of enjoying the river? Meet the mighty Yarra at nearly eye level with Kayak Melbourne (kayakmelbourne.com.au) for one of the more unique vantage points of the city. The tour company runs popular sunrise yoga experiences, as well as dusk and moonlight tours.

A rooftop renaissance

Melbourne Place hotel’s level-12 rooftop restaurant and bar, Mid Air.Credit: Eddie Jim

It’s a wonder there are any rooftops left to turn into breezy boozers, but Melbourne has outdone itself recently, with a spate of lofty newcomers. Try the famed chicken skin sandwich at Filipino rooftop bar Inuman (inumanmelbourne.com), sip on a native-ingredient cocktail at leafy Farmer’s Daughters Rooftop (farmersdaughters.com.au/rooftop), or brunch with the beautiful set at the handsome level-12 Mid Air at Melbourne Place (melbourneplace.com.au).

Four more AO attractions

Melbourne Park’s St Andrews Beach Brewery.

A brew oasis

The Mornington Peninsula’s St Andrews Beach Brewery (standrewsbeachbrewery.com.au) has opened a second outpost at Melbourne Park, a short stroll from Rob Laver Arena, so pull up a bench seat among the gum trees, and cool off with a seasonal or experimental brew. Open Tuesday to Sunday.

Grand-slam eats

A Ground Pass (from $59 per adult, $15 per child; ausopen.com) gets you access to the AO precinct and all of its pop-up eateries for the day (that includes the Grand Slam Oval, Garden Square, Topcourt and more). From fine dining to discerning bites, this year’s offerings are almost worth the trip alone, as detailed in this excellent guide by The Age and The Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Food.

Live performances

Those keen to take their revelry beyond the court can head over to AO Live. Expect a packed program of big-name acts, ranging from international electro-pop royalty Kaytranada to local favourite Bag Raiders, and much more.

Family fun

Tiny tennis fans can catch live family-friendly shows at Ballpark, including a performance by Emma Memma and a kids’ dance party led by master of the baby rave Lenny Pearce. If you need some chillout time, say, after being told to “shut up” by a feisty American tennis player, head to Garden Square in front of Rod Laver Arena, which has been refreshed with a new canopy and new court 6 Courtside Bar. See ausopen.com

The writer was a guest of Visit Victoria and The National Gallery of Victoria.