Smashed by COVID and cyclones, Pacific paradise now back with a vengeance

In March 2023, two tropical cyclones, named Judy and Kevin, smashed Vanuatu just as it was recovering off the back of one of the world’s longest COVID closures at 833 days.

But this island nation is back with a vengeance. Not only have old experiences been given a flirty facelift, there’s plenty of new, amid a surplus of blue, to be discovered in Vanuatu.

Mouthwash-blue water along Champagne Beach.Credit: Vanuatu Tourism Office

Watersports Port Vila

Kiwi Andy Martin used the pandemic to rebrand his business from Tropic Thunder Jet to Watersports Port Vila. While the jet boat (the only one in Vanuatu) is still part of the business, there’s a few new exciting additions. In May last year Martin launched The Haa Bar Cruise, the only one in the capital that captures the sunset, and in June, A Pirates Treasure Hunt snorkel trip aimed at kids (and those who are kids at heart) encouraging them to scour the harbour for lost gems. Coming soon: Coral Explorer Snorkel Tours of Mele Bay for more advanced snorkellers. See watersportsportvila.com

Eden on the River

While the Australian-owned Eden on the River is renowned for its activities featuring gushing waterfalls that tumble into swimming pools below, suspension bridges and a zipline, there’s a new experience for those who wish to add some culture to the adventure. Learn to cook (and eat) what the locals call their “spring roll”: Simporo made from the root vegetable cassava, wrapped in island cabbage and boiled in coconut milk. See edenvanuatu.com

Port Vila Central Markets

Local market vendors at Port Vila Markets.Credit: Vanuatu Tourism Office

It’s an institution of the Vanuatu capital to wade through rows of fruit and vegetables at the Port Vila Central Markets peddled by chattering mammas in their loud floral island dresses. Now you can also dine here on street food such as rice and chicken for less than $10 at kitchens and tables established along the waterfront.

eBikes Vanuatu

Vanuatu-born, New Zealand-raised Greg Mitchell has returned home to put his stamp on the tourism industry with this new venture of 40 electric bikes available for hire. With a top speed of 30 km/h and a 70-kilometre range, far enough to ride from Vila to the famous Blue Lagoon, the bikes can cover hundreds of tracks to discover the magic of Efate island. See ebikesvanuatu.com

83 Islands Distillery

Local island rum… 83 Islands Distillery

Vanuatu boasts 83 islands and two distilleries. The latest entrant into the market, 83 Islands Distillery, started five years ago but just opened its doors to tours and tastings in December 2022. Among the six different rums here, made from local sugar cane, are some interesting liqueurs such as Pomello and Orangecello, which you can try while perched along a bar overlooking Efate’s second lagoon at Stella Mare. See vanuatu.travel/au/83-islands-distillery

Banana Bay Beach Club

Drive past pretty plantations of coconut trees under which rest herds of cows and just before you hit the Blue Hole, you’ll find this beach club. There’s no DJ pumping music: rather, you’ll hear the roar of the ocean as it empties into some Instagram-worthy tidal pools. Expect cold Tusker beer and cafe staples such as toasted sandwiches in between swims here. See vanuatu.travel/en/banana-bay-beach-club

Vanuatu Jungle Zipline

Tourists taking the plunge at Vanuatu Jungle Zipline.Credit: Vanuatu Tourism Office

While Vanuatu Jungle Zipline, the longest zipline in the South Pacific, has been a firm fixture across the skyline since 2012, it was only in March 2020, just before borders closed, that they opened Skybridge, a 120-metre-long suspension bridge. Head to Mele, and 200 metres above sea level, walk through lush rainforest to amble along this 65-metre-high bridge. Peek down and you’ll witness a 10,000-year-old coral reef ridgeline that has formed a canyon with a series of waterfalls. Watch this space as soon, a Giant Swing will also open on the property. Fearful of heights? This enterprising company is also poised to launch a new Sunset Sail and Glass Bottom Boat Snorkelling tour in Port Vila Harbour. See vanuatujunglezipline.com

L’Espadon

Vanuatu is home to copious nakamals; traditional meeting places in which the community gathers to drink kava, as well as plenty of rustic kava bars, but this new offering brings a contemporary slant to consuming the nation’s beloved tipple. While The Kava Company opened in 1999 and The Kava House in 2009 on the same premises, upmarket L’Espadon has now opened its doors with a white double-storey building overlooking Mele Bay. Drink Kava Company brews here or try classic spirits before a stint on the dance floor. See thekavahousevanuatu.com

The Moso Vanuatu

Overwater hammock at The Moso.

Sydneysiders may recognise the names Joel Slattery and Antoun Jabbour from their previous cafe, Bakerman, at Erskineville. Seven years ago, the couple bought land on Moso Island on the northwest coast off Efate with plans to build a holiday home. That idea exploded into a bistro and five villas. Fast-forward and now 10 adult-only boutique beach shacks, some of which boast private plunge pools, sit on this 100-hectare property. Sleep in these white-walled villas or relax in the newly opened two-room Blossom Day Spa, which uses all local products. See themosovanuatu.com

Turtle Bay Lodge

Poolside at glamping favourite Turtle Bay Lodge.

It takes a clown to decide to build glamping tents on Santo but that’s exactly what Western Australia’s Lunar Circus head honcho Matt Yates and his partner Louise Moss have done. Seventeen years ago, Yates and Moss bought what was then a backpacker joint and transformed it into a boutique resort. Now, they’ve added five adult-only marquees, a PADI dive centre, two boats and two quad bikes. Slumber in these elegant tents just steps from the beach replete with stripey Melbourne-style beach-shack bathrooms and corrugated iron semi-outdoor showers. See turtlebaylodge.vu

South Pacific Memories

Norwegian couple Anna Nesheim and Petter Lambine scoured tropical islands around the world to find the ideal location for a block of land on which they could build four bungalows. Divinely, their choice also had the perfect reef just offshore, allowing them to open not only South Pacific Memories accommodation in 2022 but a PADI-accredited dive centre. Indulge in a three-day learn-to-dive course straight offshore on Anna’s Reef: home to Dugong Alley, Rock Star City and a curious cave turtle. See southpacificmemories.com

Santo Blue Hole Hangout Tour

The luscious Nanda Blue Hole (also, Jackie’s Blue Hole).Credit: Vanuatu Tourism Office

Drive past fields of sweet potato and taro onto this 7.5 hectare family-owned property that overlooks Nando Blue Hole, arguably the prettiest on Santo. Sleep in one of two new local bungalows, or simply visit for the day on this tour which includes a custom dance, traditional water music, kava ceremony, garden tour and lunch preparation, and botanical garden tour. Bring your swimmers and snorkel as this 20-metre-deep crystal clear hole is teeming with fish. See vanuatu.travel/fr/santo-blue-hole-hangout

Island Massage

Having your head in the sand has never been better at this new beachfront massage hut at Santo’s Port Olry Beach. At Chez Louis Restaurant you’ll find a basic bamboo beach hut with three massage tables and three enterprising women who make their own coconut oil to soothe your muscles to the soundtrack of the ocean. With a one-hour massage costing $44, and the proceeds supporting the local village, you can’t go wrong.

The writer travelled as a guest of Vanuatu Tourism Air Vanuatu and the Fondation Suzanne Bastien.

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