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Seven wonders to see at the destroyed Roman city of Pompeii

By Kerry van der Jagt

Seven wonders of Pompeii, Italy

It was AD 79 when the volcanic eruption of Mount Vesuvius buried Pompeii under layers of ash during a two-day tempest. Today, the 66-hectare archaeological site offers visitors a snapshot of daily life in an ancient Roman city. Here’s how to make sense of it all.

1 Reflect on the tragedy

A plaster cast of a victim of Vesuvius’ eruption at Pompeii.

A plaster cast of a victim of Vesuvius’ eruption at Pompeii.Credit: iStock

Before you enter, pause to think about the estimated 2000 people who died at Pompeii and as many as 16,000 within the Gulf of Naples, not by lava flow, but from asphyxiation caused by a lethal cloud of ash and gas. The Garden of the Fugitives (Region I) holds the largest number of victims, where 13 people perished while attempting to flee. Plaster casts made from the impressions of their bodies in the ash show the horror of their final agonising minutes. Visit the Antiquarium to learn how these plaster moulds were made.

2 Admire the lifestyles of the rich and famous

The gardens of the House of Menander.

The gardens of the House of Menander.Credit: iStock

Pompeii was a prosperous centre for travel and trade, where the upper class lived in lavish houses designed to display the owner’s wealth. The House of Menander (Region I) was one of the most magnificent. Follow the atrium to the peristyle court, admire the well-preserved painting of the Athenian dramatist Menander, take note of the elegant mosaics and the small private bath complex on the western side. Look up to see a fresco of the hunter Actaeon being devoured by his own dogs. Other noteworthy houses include the Villa of Mysteries, House of the Tragic Poet and House of the Faun (Region VI).

3 Visit the red-light district

As you follow the pathway to Lupanar Grande, Pompeii’s “official” brothel (Region VII), look for the phallic symbols carved into stones that “point” the way. This is one of Pompeii’s most popular attractions, so get there early to avoid the crush. Shuffle past a series of small, cramped rooms, note the built-in stone beds and erotic artwork displaying the services provided. While much has been made of Pompeii’s open attitude to sex and prostitution, the grim reality is that most of the workers were slaves living in harsh conditions.

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4 Engage a guide

Pompeii with Vesuvius in the background – the site is huge, making a guide a good choice.

Pompeii with Vesuvius in the background – the site is huge, making a guide a good choice.Credit: iStock

Pompeii is a Goliath of a site. Comprising nine regions across 66 hectares (of which 22 hectares remain to be excavated) it would take two to three days to see it all. Guests on a Sun Princess Mediterranean cruise can hit the highlights on any number of shore excursions: some led by National Geographic guides, others using a 3D augmented reality device. Not only will a guide bring the ghostly city to life, but also share trivia (Pink Floyd produced a concert film here), discuss the latest discoveries (charcoal drawings of gladiators) and plot a path that best avoids the crowds.

5 Soak up the beauty of the public bathhouses

A cold pool at the baths.

A cold pool at the baths.Credit: iStock

The blanket of ash that destroyed the town is also what preserved it. And few places are better preserved than the thermal baths, the ultimate testament to Roman engineering and culture. If the Stabian Baths are the oldest thermal complex, the Forum Baths (Region VII) are the most elaborate. Look up at the arched ceilings, admire the frescoes depicting gardens and mythological scenes and be stunned at the technical ingenuity of the underfloor heating system known as hypocaust. And ponder why the men’s facilities are more elaborate than the women’s (the answer: Pompeii was a strictly patriarchal society).

6 Explore the theatres

The amphitheatre and its stage.

The amphitheatre and its stage.Credit: iStock

As you pass the Temple of Isis (Region VIII) look for the Large (Great) Theatre, built to take advantage of the natural slope of the hill. Close your eyes and imagine the laughter of 5000 spectators enjoying a comedy, or the collective gasp at the end of a great tragedy. Note the three sections: lowermost (ima) for the noble people, middle (media) for the middle-class and the nosebleed section (summa) for the plebeians. Don’t miss the Small (Odeon) Theatre next door or the 20,000-capacity Amphitheatre, which is well away from the hordes, in Region II.

7 Check out an ancient fast-food restaurant

Pompeii’s streets were once alive with food vendors.

Pompeii’s streets were once alive with food vendors.Credit: iStock

Not only did the ancient Pompeians enjoy a soak and a show, but the 80-plus thermopolia (small cook shops) suggest they also had a fondness for street food. Often found on street corners, they are easily identified by a counter with deep, circular wells, which once held jars to keep food warm. Faded frescoes still hawk the snack of the day such as fish, chicken or snails. One of the best preserved is the house and thermopolium of Vetutius Placidus on Via dell’Abbondanza (Region I), Pompeii’s main street.

The writer travelled as a guest of Princess Cruises (princess.com)

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/traveller/inspiration/seven-wonders-to-see-at-the-destroyed-roman-city-of-pompeii-20240926-p5kdt7.html