Port guide: Piraeus (Athens), Greece

Hot, crowded, chaotic Athens might well drive you mad, but you can’t beat 3400 years of recorded history and a civilisation that has influenced the world.

Who goes there

Some 1.5 million cruise passengers pass through Piraeus, which sees more than 1000 cruise ships dock annually. All major cruise companies are represented, whether they operate mega-ships, small luxury ships or expedition vessels. Local company Celestyal Cruises is based there. Many ships homeport in Piraeus for an extended summer season, sailing itineraries around the Greek islands and Turkish coast, or across the eastern Mediterranean. Others pass through on wider Mediterranean cruises.

The busy port of Piraeus, Athens.Credit: iStock

Sail on in

Anyone with a sense of history will be thrilled to sail towards Athens. To starboard you might glimpse the Temple of Poseidon on Cape Sounion, where mariners once prayed to the sea god. A while later, the boxy concrete of Athens rises across hillsides, and you can pick out the Acropolis – binoculars help. The narrow port of Piraeus has no charm, but its bustle of ships is exciting.

Berth rites

Piraeus is nine kilometres from the Acropolis and has three small cruise terminals, imaginatively named A, B and C, which could well be a (free) shuttle ride along the quay from your ship, as many dock nose-to-tail along nearly three kilometres of waterfront. None of the terminals has anything of note to detain you. Regular bus, hop-on bus or cruise shuttles take you into the city; otherwise you’re at the mercy of overcharging taxi drivers.

Before and after

You have no shortage of hotels in Athens, and the number of mid-range family hotels has increased greatly in the last decade or so. Apartment and studio rentals abound, too. Want to be right in the middle of everything with a great Acropolis view? Try hip A for Athens. The unbeatable classic luxury hotel is the Grande Bretagne.

Going ashore

Plaka, in Athens’ old quarter, is a popular spot for strolling.Credit: iStock

The Acropolis and its museum, Ancient Agora marketplace, Theatre of Dionysus and National Archaeological Museum provide the key classical sights. Below the Acropolis, hilly, cobbled Plaka district is delightful but touristy. Then head to Syntagma Square, overlooked by the peach-coloured parliament, outside which stand national guardsmen front the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Their bizarre slow-motion marching is a sight to behold.

Don’t miss

The sight of Athens and the Acropolis from any of several hills. The highest is Lycabettus, whose summit can be reached by funicular; you can see all the way to Piraeus and the Saronic Gulf from the terrace at the top. Hymettus isn’t nearly as convenient, but you’ll find a serene monastery surrounded by olive trees, flower-splattered meadows and fabulous views.

Get active

The National Garden provides rambling lanes among shady trees and shrubbery. Adjacent Zappeion Gardens are a favourite strolling place for Athenians on summer evenings. A more energetic walk takes you up Philopappos and Pnyx hills, a rocky outcrop from which you get a thrilling Acropolis view.

Best bites

Trendy restaurants supply contemporary versions of Greek cuisine and international food, but ubiquitous tavernas are best bet for sightseers on the hoof. Favourite Greek appetisers include grilled octopus, tzatziki, dolmades (stuffed vine leaves), and slices of eggplant deep-fried in batter. Typical mains include grilled swordfish steak, stuffed squid, skewered lamb, spicy meatballs, and tomatoes stuffed with spiced rice and minced meat, all accompanied by salad.

Further afield

Options include the Athens Riviera and Cape Sounion; Corinth for its ancient ruins, canal and connections with St Paul; and the 4000-year-old archaeological site at Mycenae. Expect a full day, especially given Athens’ notorious traffic. This isn’t a destination in which to attempt distant excursions yourself.