Port guide: Monte Carlo, Monaco

Few places are quite as glamorous as this tiny Mediterranean principality, but beyond the opulence, you’ll find very worthy sights.

Who goes there

Azamara, Oceania, Regent Seven Seas, Seabourn, Silversea and Viking are among ships that visit. Monaco aims at a well-heeled, sedate crowd: only ships with fewer than 1250 passengers – which effectively means premium and luxury vessels – are allowed to dock. Some cruises begin here, others are passing through on Mediterranean itineraries.

Splurge-worthy Monte Carlo.Credit: iStock

Sail on in

The ultimate playground for the rich, famous and tax-anxious presents a fabulous face to the sea. You’ll see a sweep of French coastline and purple hills, the whole of Monaco, then the sun-drenched, cliff-hugging petite perfection of Monte Carlo as you glide into Port Hercule. Spread around you are yachts the size of battleships – call in at waterfront sales offices if you wish to buy one.

Berth rites

Ships dock in Port Hercule, a horseshoe of water wedged beneath two outcrops, one crowded by the palace, the other the casino. The terminal is a low, serviceable building you’ll barely be in. Very little processing is required, making everything easy. Occasionally, if several ships are visiting, you’ll be anchored beyond Port Hercule and tendered ashore.

Before and after

For a worthy and stylish splurge, stay at the perfectly located Hotel de Paris, one of Europe’s great heritage hotels. Opulent Belle-Epoque public areas and top-notch restaurants are matched by toned-down but luxurious guestrooms, some with bedazzling harbour views. The adjacent marble-and-glass Thermes Marins provides a wallow in wellness and more sunny panoramas.

Going ashore

Monaco is compact, safe and easy to get around. Take a tour of the casino for an eye-popping look at its ornate decorative extravagance, then perch outside at Cafe de Paris and sip champagne as you watch supercars disgorge billionaires towards the roulette tables. The city has several lovely (if pocket-sized) gardens, including Jardins de la Petite Afrique, Princess Grace Rose Garden, and the cliff-clinging Jardin Exotique with its plunging views, cactus and unexpected cave system.

Don’t miss

The Oceanographic Museum inside a palace-like building looming on the cliff edge. Its displays are part endearingly old-fashioned, part high-tech, and wonderfully eclectic: a stuffed polar bear, marvellous cabinets of curiosities, a 1776 submarine, model ships and gigantic whale skeletons. Then there are live critters in 90 aquariums, the most amazing of which are fluorescent corals and luminous jellyfish.

Get active

Monaco covers just 2.1 square kilometres – though on steep hillsides – so get walking. The best stroll takes you straight from Port Hercule to cliff-hugging paths that skirt the old town above brilliant blue water, passing tiny well-tended parks, the Oceanographic Museum and cathedral before arriving above another scenic harbour, Fontvieille. Alternatively, you can jet ski, parasail or do laps in the Olympic-sized swimming pool at the chic Monte-Carlo Beach Club.

Best bites

Pavyllon at Hotel Hermitage Monte-Carlo is a must for those who enjoy fancy French – and when the food is this good, who doesn’t? Amazonico has tasty South American cuisine in a flamboyant, designer-forward restaurant and terrace beside the casino. For more modest fare, Le Castelroc across the square from the palace has been a favourite of the Monegasques since the 1950s, and features unpretentious local specialties such as octopus in wine, cod stew, and ricotta-and-spinach pasta.

Further afield

Shore excursions are offered to other destinations along the French Riviera, such as Cannes, Nice, or teetering medieval hilltop town Eze. Others head inland to visit walled city St-Paul de Vance or perfume-manufacturing town Grasse. Monaco’s train station has frequent, easy connections along the coast, making money-saving, do-it-yourself day trips very viable.