Nine must-do highlights of San Francisco

The walking tour

North Beach neighbourhood in San Francisco’s little Italy.Credit: iStock

The North Beach area is San Francisco’s little Italy and, around 1849 during the gold rush, was also the red-light district (gold-coveting pioneers were dubbed “forty-niners”). Expert local foodies take small groups through the vibrant Italian food scene, tasting some of the city’s famous dishes on Avital Food Tours. Tucking into cioppino (tomato-based seafood stew) at Sotto Mare is a highlight. You’ll also try smoky margherita slices from the oldest pizza oven on the west coast in Tommaso’s, and sip the drink of the gold rush, pisco punch, in historic Comstock Saloon. See avitalexperiences.com

The hotel

San Francisco rode a rollercoaster through the COVID-19 years and, admittedly, its reputation went down hill. But in 2024 the city is soaring, with new and refurbished hotels catering to well-heeled tourists and Silicon Valley professionals returning to town. The Jay, with a multi-million-dollar renovation and a member of Marriot’s luxury Autograph Collection, is one of those. Roomy suites blend New York elegance with Californian luxury. It’s located in the quieter Embarcadero district which is within walking distance of popular tourist zones including the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, Fisherman’s Wharf and Marina District. See jayhotelsf.com

The cocktail bar

Chotte Matte came bursting out of pandemic gloom like a Miami Beach party hitting its summer stride. The enormous Japanese-Peruvian fusion bar previously took up an entire floor of department store Macy’s. Its rooftop space is decked out in jungle plants and intimate booths and lounges that drip with cool. The views and cocktails are Instagram-worthy, but chic share plates of food shine b brightest. Three tasting menus help ease decision fatigue. Try the sushi but be warned about shishito peppers – devilishly moreish but firecracker hot. See chotto-matte.com/sanfrancisco

The Rock

Alcatraz Island, otherwise known as The Rock, an infamous penitentiary that is now a tourist attraction.Credit: iStock

Visiting Alcatraz Island is a bucket-list activity. Tick off Alcatraz, which became a federal penitentiary in 1934, by ensuring you book your tour timeslot which includes the ferry ride over, well in advance. The audio tour contains blood-curdling stories narrated by past “escapees”. Looking for something more thrilling? The Bondi Icebergs organise an ocean swim every other year from Alcatraz to the city shore. The club and its guests share reciprocal rights to use facilities with South End Rowing Club near the Marina District. It’s basic, but you’ll appreciate the sauna after braving the icy water (10-15C) with your new American comrades. See cityexperiences.com/san-francisco/city-cruises/alcatraz; serc.com

The hike

An urban hike sounds like a contradiction, and yet in San Francisco there are dozens of them helping locals and tourists alike escape the concrete jungle. The Creeks to Peaks trail takes you to Islais Creek and up the winding summit of Twin Peaks, providing awesome vistas of the city. Alternatively, San Francisco’s version of the New York High Line opened in 2022 and connects the highway tunnels of Presidio Parkway to the Crissy Field waterfront, with 5.6 hectares of green space along the bay. See sfrecpark.org

The bike ride

A cyclist takes an exhilarating ride across one of the world’s most famous bridges.Credit: iStock

Golden Gate Bridge is one of the world’s most photographed bridges but is likely one of the world’s most-cycled-upon bridges, too. Riding across the iconic orange suspension bridge spanning the Golden Gate, the strait connecting San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean and linking the city with Sausalito, is exhilarating. Hire wheels from Blazing Saddles and get a free map and a ferry ticket back to San Francisco across the Bay. It’s 2.7 kilometres across, but some cyclists might want to go all the way to the famous redwoods of Muir Woods, especially if you opt for an e-bike, which is recommended for the numerous hills. See blazingsaddles.com/san-francisco

The game

Levi’s Stadium in San Francisco, home of the San Francisco 49ers.Credit: iStock

The 49ers NFL team reached the Super Bowl in 2024, and home games at Levi’s Stadium always promise an electric atmosphere, plus the unique tradition of pre-game tailgating in the parking lots. Book a seat on the fans’ M-Ride shuttle bus to get there and back, as getting to the stadium in Santa Clara can be slow and complicated on public transport. Closer to the city, waterfront Oracle Park is home to the Giants baseball team and is where Kanye West proposed to Kim Kardashian in 2013. See levisstadium.com; mride.com/event-category/san-francisco-49ers

The day trip

San Francisco is the capital of Californian wine country, with more than 800 wineries in the nearby Napa and Sonoma counties. Many are reachable in a day trip via Green Dream tours. Napa is sandwiched between two dramatic mountain ranges, incredibly scenic and known for upscale dining including two Michelin Star restaurants. The expansive green hills of Sonoma have slightly greater variety and relaxed dining options that can be friendlier on the wallet. See greendreamtours.com

The late-night diner

Mel’s Drive-In opened in 1947 in San Francisco and was the first of a chain of institutions bringing jukeboxes and soda jerks to the night owls of California. While the original restaurant, made famous in George Lucas’ 1973 film American Graffiti, closed down, the 1985 replacement building on Lombard Street has continued to offer nostalgic, neon-lit dining until 3am on weekends. After a big day of touring around San Francisco, I visit Mel’s on a rainy night when everything else is closed and a plate of “all-American” meatloaf arrives to my bright green plastic booth: a warm hug from simpler times. See melsdrive-in.com

One more thing

Long before the age of the burrito emoji, a taqueria in the lively Latino neighbourhood of the Mission District began wrapping meat, beans and rice in enormous tortilla packages. La Taqueria is said to be the 1960s-era birthplace of the “Mission Burrito”; a style that is now ubiquitous in chains like Guzman y Gomez and Chipotle. The family-owned restaurant still produces a foil-wrapped beauty to behold (and big effort to consume) – come hungry. See lataqueriasf.net

The writer travelled with assistance from San Francisco Travel. See sftravel.com