Achingly-hip US brand brings famed tacos and coffee to Japan hotspot

The Hotel

Ace, Kyoto, Japan

Check In

One of the most hip hotel brands on the market, US-born Ace has become highly respected by travellers who seek comfort and style with great design, food and shopping. And that’s exactly what the brand’s first Asian hotel offers, re-launching this year after a pandemic-induced misfire during 2020. This historic building has been incorporated into the new, modern, unique Shin-Puh-Kan shopping strip that consists of upmarket and unique stores such as Japanese fashion outlet Beam and achingly-hip brands like Le Labo and Cafe Kitsune, with craft beer and premium chocolate also on the menu. It’s all conveniently linked to the subway.

The Look

Credit: Yoshihiro Makino

The original building held a telephone company designed by one of the best Japanese modern architects, so it already had a great canvas to paint upon. In a mesh of traditional and current aesthetics, Japanese ryokan style meets long-time Los Angeles-based Ace collaborators to create a fresh new look for the brand. Entering the lobby, guests are welcomed by staff behind a remarkable hand-hammered copper doughnut reservation desk. The slick, spacious lobby has a line of tables for remote workers who quietly tap away alongside couches for casual gatherings and easy access to Portland USA’s Stumptown Coffee Roasters, Japan’s first outlet. Upstairs, the fun continues at bar PIOPIKO, with a DJ, blue velvet sofas and copper booths among huge potted plants and an impressive bar, which has an inviting happy hour from 3-6pm, and again from 10pm to close.

Credit: Yoshihiro Makino

The Room

Of the 213 rooms, I’m in a Standard King, and immediately recognise the Pendleton blanket adorning the king-sized bed and the signature turntable accompanied by vintage vinyl. But new is the bold, bright Japanese-designed artwork hanging over the bed and the glorious arched floor-to-ceiling window overlooking the streets of Kyoto. There are beautiful Japanese ceramics for coffee and tea, and reasonably priced curated drinks and snacks in the minibar. In the slick black-slate bathroom sits a soaking tub and shower with luxurious Tokyo brand uka products plus a separate Toko toilet. There’s also a smart TV where you can stream Netflix from your own device.

Credit: Yoshihiro Makino

Food + Drink

Sagely deciding not to compete with some of Japan’s hottest restaurants on its doorstep, Ace steps away from local cuisine and brings contemporary Mexican to Kyoto at PIOPIKO, where you’ll find great cocktails and tacos by the founding chef of Los Angeles’ legendary Guerilla Tacos, Wes Avila. Upstairs, award-winning chef Marc Vetri is at the helm of Mr Maurice’s Italian, a smart osteria where you can sample five dishes from the menu at the bargain price of 3800 yen ($40), accompanied with wine from a thoughtfully chosen list with drops from Australia to California. Excellent breakfasts are also served here, including a Japanese set, a controversial Californian avocado toast, and other more traditional Western fare, and can be included in the room rate.

Credit: Yoshihiro Makino

Out + About

In the heart of the city, Ace is surrounded by narrow streets lined atmospherically with Kyoto’s trademark architecture filled with intriguing — and in some cases, charmingly old — shops, restaurants and izakayas, including a 200-year-old confectionary shop across the street. The Karasuma-Oike subway entrance is a two-minute walk from the lobby which allows you to easily cross town, temple-hopping, and it’s also handy for carrying any extra luggage you may have accumulated (guilty!).

The Verdict

Credit: Yoshihiro Makino

Mirror, mirror on the wall, where is the fairest Ace of all? With its warm, inviting design, so much great dining in-house and excellent shopping at its doorstep, it’s Ace Kyoto.

Essentials

Rooms from $560 a night. 245-2 Kurumayacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto 604-8185, Japan; Ph 0081 75 229 9000; acehotel.com/kyoto

Our Rating Out of Five

★★★★½

Highlight

Cosy, warm, hip, friendly, spacious, delicious, central… Ace nails it all.

Lowlight

I missed Noma's sold-out residency by a few weeks, but I hear tables were like unicorns, even for locals.

The writer stayed courtesy of Ace Hotels.