The celebrity-favourite luxury resort you’ve probably never heard of

There’s an intimate resort tucked away on the northern coast of Turkey’s Bodrum Peninsula that has long been an enclave for artists, writers, the well-heeled and well-known. But it’s so low-key you may never have heard of it.

Macakizi. Dive in.

Macakizi winds down bougainvillea-tangled paths though ancient olive trees to the protected waters of Golturkbuku, a bay on the Aegean, which is filled with glamour yachts during the height of summer.

It’s an exhilarating 40-minute scenic drive from the port at Bodrum to the hotel, along curvaceous roads that occasionally dip to sparkling, secluded coves.

A kind of Turkish Saint-Tropez, the coast has lured the wealthy of Istanbul for decades. In recent years the region has gained cachet among international travellers who are looking for laid-back luxury escapes without the glitz of the Mediterranean and the crowds of certain over-hyped Greek islands.

Pool, spa and, of course, a hammam.

Macakizi’s history goes back to 1977 when the charismatic Ayla Emiroglu drew bohemian travellers to her little pension and beach club in Bodrum. She was nicknamed the “Queen of Spades” (maca kizi) for the shape of her dark, curly hair, and the modest hotel took on her name.

The resort restaurant now has a Michelin star as well as a breathtaking vista.

Ayla’s guests were a potpourri of musicians, writers and artists, many of whom exchanged rooms for works of art. Ayla retired, and in 2000 her son, Sahir Erozan, unveiled a modern hotel in his mother’s name on the northern, quieter side of the peninsula.

A portrait of Ayla hangs on a wall in Ayla, the hotel’s new fine dining restaurant. She’s striking, with high cheekbones and mesmeric eyes. Now quite elderly, she’s not involved in the hotel, except in spirit.

Ayla’s original guesthouse was famous for her soulful, flavourful Turkish home cooking. The hotel’s chef, Aret Shakyan, who oversees its main, eponymous restaurant, has worked with the family for many years, and is carrying on the tradition with elevated creativity.

The Ayla restaurant.

The sunny restaurant, which flows across a terrace overlooking the bay, gained a Michelin star in 2023.

Modest and generous, Shakyan is a mentor for young chefs from across the world, many of whom come to spend time in his kitchen. Two Australian chefs, Christine Manfield and Andrew O’Connell, are among the regular guests.

In fact, Macakizi has a strong Australian following, thanks to Sydney-born general manager Andrew Jacobs, who has had a long career in hospitality in Australia, Dubai and Europe, including many years with Hilton hotels, including stints in Istanbul and Athens.

Macakizi Hotel Bodrum… guests have included Kate Moss and Bill Gates.

Jacobs exemplifies the style of Macakizi. He appears for lunch straight from a swim in shorts, with salt-tangled long hair, and a beach cap. When he’s not in Bodrum, he’s mostly in Bali.

Jacobs is discreet about who stays there but over the years the list has included powerbrokers, pop stars and princesses – boldfaced names from Kate Moss, who is a regular, to Bill Gates and the late Ruth Bader Ginsberg and Princess Margaret.

Still, Macakizi is resolutely unpretentious, which is much of its appeal. Reception is an airy pavilion where you’ll be greeted by Lucy, the resort’s resident hound.

The hotel is probably not for the mobility-challenged as it terraces down the hill, with enormous, open living and eating spaces, until you reach the beach club at the bottom, where guests lie on shaded day beds on a boardwalk over the sea.

The 74 rooms and suites don’t have blingy amenities such as marble bathrooms, but are simple, lovely spaces, many with windows overlooking the sea or terraces entwined in bougainvillea. The landscaping of the gardens is next level.

The ultimate relaxing getaway for those in the know.

The spa includes a hammam that, unusually, is encased in a private glass pavilion among the trees. The organic shaped pool is one of the prettiest I’ve seen.

Like his mother, Sahir Erozan is an art lover. On every terrace, in every nook, there are eye-catching works from local and international artists, culminating in a dazzling ceramic mural and fountain by Elif Uras.

Beyond the views and the food, the allure of Macakizi is easy to see – the vibe is so joyous.

The details

Stay
Macakizi is open April 1 – November 1, 2025. Suites from €650 ($1066) + taxes a night. See macakizi.com

The writer was a guest for the day at Macakizi.