Japan’s toilets are amazing, but Tokyo’s public loos are next level

Yes, the toilets in Japan are amazing. They can play soothing music to disguise embarrassing sounds. Their seats rise and fall as needed, so awkward ‘did you leave the seat up?’ arguments aren’t necessary. Their water jets can clean you at incredibly precise angles and on cold days, your freezing body will relish the preheated seat’s toasty-warm mode.

These designs are so hospitable and intelligent that whenever I’m back in Japan, I immediately think: the toilets here are infinitely smarter than I am. I’m not even downplaying my IQ levels – it’s quite easy to be outwitted by their many functions. I once accidentally activated the alarm in a fancy tofu restaurant in Ginza, because the ‘I’m in trouble!’ button looked like the flush.

The futuristic, glowing restroom at Ebusi Station by Kashiwa Sato, part of The Tokyo Toilet project.Credit: Satoshi Nagare/The Nippon Foundation

I’m not alone in worshipping these restroom designs either: during a ramen-eating bender in Japan (documented for Lucky Peach magazine), American chef David Chang threw up in the alley by choice because he had too much respect for Japanese toilets.

Compared to Australia, where options merely run from ‘half flush’ to ‘full flush’, Japanese designs are impressive. Even a basic model is noteworthy. The toilet in my friend’s tiny Tokyo apartment, for instance, was space-saving and eco-friendly: the sink replaced the top of the cistern, so each flush triggered a hand-washing gush of water that cleverly filled the tank below.

A Walk in the Woods, designed by Kengo Kuma at Nabeshima Shoto Park.Credit: Satoshi Nagare/The Nippon Foundation

Across my eight visits to Japan, several restrooms have stood out: there’s the gentle twinkling music that soundtracks stalls at Tokyo’s 12-level stationery store, Itoya, and the all-glass view from Harukas 300, Osaka’s tallest skyscraper. Then there’s The Tokyo Toilet project.

Public bathrooms aren’t usually stars of travel itineraries, but The Tokyo Toilet scheme deserves to be. This project features architecturally striking restrooms through Shibuya’s precinct, from Kengo Kuma’s forest-like cabins in Nabeshima Shoto Park to Nao Tamura’s sharp-angled construction at Higashi Sanchome, which unfolds like origata, an ancient gift-wrapping technique that precedes origami.

Nao Tamura’s origata-inspired toilets at Higashi Sanchome, a symbol of gift-giving.Credit: Satoshi Nagare/The Nippon Foundation

Anyone who has seen the Oscar-nominated film Perfect Days might recognise these bathrooms. Director Wim Wenders was invited by The Tokyo Toilet initiative to showcase its designs and his fictional movie gives 12 of these restrooms starring roles, from Toyo Ito’s mushroom-like wonders near Yoyogi-Hachiman shrine to Shigeru Ban’s toilets, programmed to change colour when the doors are locked.

The Tokyo Toilet scheme was meant to welcome 2020 Olympics visitors; the pandemic postponed the Tokyo games for a year and some designs weren’t unveiled until March 2023.

Perfect Days, directed by Wim Wenders, beautifully showcases The Tokyo Toilet designs.Credit: Madman Films

Those facilities missed their Perfect Days cameo, but there’s a star quality to the Urasando site by Australian designer Marc Newson (with its glitzy copper Minoko roof typical of traditional tearooms and temples) and the spectacular swoop of Sou Fujimoto’s bathroom (which resembles a giant hand-washing basin; its taps are even smartly staggered to accommodate people of different heights).

I wish I’d stepped into Kazoo Sato’s fully voice-activated Nanago Dori Park design: it’s optimised for a contactless experience (so there’s no need to prop open an icky public bathroom door with your elbow or knee as you enter).

Tadao Ando’s UFO-like toilet in Jingu Dori Park.Credit: Satoshi Nagare/The Nippon Foundation

On my last Tokyo visit, I made it to six of Tokyo Toilet’s bathrooms. Near Ebisu Station, you can quickly tour Kashiwa Sato’s glowing white cube, Masamichi Katayama’s update on a traditional river hut, and the angular folds of Nao Tamura’s origata-like design.

Walking from Shibuya to Harajuku, I accidentally came across two Tokyo Toilet structures along Meiji-dori Avenue: Tadao Ando’s UFO-like hut (apparently frisbee-shaped for air circulation, so it can be cleaned without water) and fashion designer Nigo’s nostalgic bathroom, which evokes a charming cottage from a picture book.

Kenzo creative director Nigo designed blue jumpsuits worn by The Tokyo Toilet janitors, and featured in the film.Credit: Madman Films

The Kenzo creative director also designed The Tokyo Toilet blue jumpsuits worn by the janitors, now famous after Yakusho Koji’s Cannes-winning role as Hirayama, the cleaner in Perfect Days. There are now Tokyo Toilet tours, but you can visit (or use) these bathrooms on your own schedule.

It’s worth seeking out Kengo Kuma’s site, which resembles a forest of giant wooden pegs. But that’s not even his best public toilet in Tokyo: I think his angular design for the spectacular Sunny Hills cake shop is even better (the building is like a geometric timber cloud; plus, handwashing with Aesop is always a bonus). But that’s Japan for you: there’s always a great toilet somewhere.