How to do Japan better than the rest, according to an expert

Cloud-brushing skyscrapers, flashing neon and seas of salarymen. The rhythmic whisk of matcha in the stillness of a tatami mat tea room. The dancing hands of a sushi chef slicing sashimi on a cypress wood counter. Decadent quantities of world-class powder snow. Steam rising from a hot spring onsen bath.

And the list goes on. Japan has long been a timeless haven of colourfully unique experiences. It’s home to a spectrum of only-in-Japan moments, balancing the rich layers of its deep cultural heritage with a futuristic modern edge – whether enjoying dinner in a robot restaurant in Tokyo or slipping shoes off at the threshold of a centuries-old Zen temple.

Japan’s diversity is mirrored in its geography. The landscape of the scattered archipelago – a narrow vertical stretch of volcanic islands – ranges from the snow-flecked ski resorts of northernmost Hokkaido to the subtropical island gems of southern Okinawa.

And it’s never been more popular. Tourism is booming – as is well documented, along with a growing reports of overtourism. This, however, should not deter visitors – instead, it should inspire them to get creative and explore the many quieter, less obvious spots.

It’s still possible to find peaceful corners to explore even as Japan gains popularity with tourists.Credit: Getty Images

For many, one timeless draw is Japan’s legendary food (Tokyo alone has 170 Michelin-starred restaurants – the highest number in the world). Culinary experiences vary wildly from shiny skyscraper eateries to tiny hidden sushi counters – plus countless local restaurants specialising in a cornucopia of treats such as soba noodles, tempura, ramen, yakitori (skewered chicken) and tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlets).

For others, the appeal is rooted in its aesthetics – from the modern minimalism of architect Tadao Ando’s concrete buildings, to the wabi-sabi philosophy of transience and imperfection experienced in the stillness of tea rooms and Zen gardens. It was a mix of all the above (plus a sprinkling of romantic notions relating to cherry blossoms) that prompted me to swap my native London for Japan 17 years ago. After nearly two decades of living here (now based in the old kimono district of Kyoto), there is still so much more to see and learn.

My itinerary does not attempt to cover everything, a near-impossible feat in two weeks. It does, however, aim to offer a curated taste of the cultural richness and diversity Japan has to offer, with the goal of creating memories that linger long after flying home – starting with Tokyo.

Days 1, 2 & 3, Tokyo

Find your feet in the city

Pooliside at Trunk(Hotel) Yoyogi Park.

The first day of your trip will be occupied by an overnight flight from London to Tokyo. On arrival, after checking in at Trunk(Hotel) Cat Street, wander around Harajuku, the street fashion mecca. Soak up the rainbow-bright crowds of teenagers strolling down Takeshita Dori. Then, get a glimpse of the other side of Japan: just behind Harajuku station, roam through a wide forested path to the serene sanctuary of Meiji Jingu shrine. Next, head past the fashion flagships of tree-lined Omotesando. Pick up some Issey Miyake shopping at the northern end of Omotesando, before exploring time-capsule traditional treasures (plus the serene gardens) at the Kengo Kuma-designed Nezu Museum.

Senso-ji temple complex is Tokyo’s oldest.Credit: iStock

Skip the city crowds
If jetlag is kicking in, make the most of rising early and try to skip the crowds at Sensoji – Japan’s oldest temple – wandering along its lively market walkway, in Asakusa, an atmospheric old district in eastern Tokyo. Not far away is Ueno Koen, one of the city’s oldest public parks, filled with national museums, shrines, a lotus pond and quality people-watching.

For a low-key detour, head a little farther east to Yanaka, one of the few neighbourhoods to have survived wartime bombing – resulting in a rare time-warp atmosphere. Stroll through its cherry-tree-filled cemetery and sip coffee in old-school cafés. Don’t miss Scai the Bathhouse, one of Tokyo’s best independent contemporary galleries, housed, as its name suggests, in an old sento bathhouse.

Later, for dinner, head to Kyubey in Ginza for quality sushi – asking for a counter seat to watch the master chefs at work.

Day 4, Kanazawa

Take the bullet train

It’s a three-hour ride from Hokuriku to Kanazawa on the Shinkansen Line.Credit: iStock

Take a bullet train to the crafts-rich Hokuriku region, which hugs the Sea of Japan coastline, west of Tokyo – and in around three hours, arrive at Kanazawa. This mountain-wrapped city is a historic gem in Ishikawa prefecture, famed for its wooden architecture and quality craftsmanship. Check into the sleekly comfortable (and convenient) Hyatt Centric Kanazawa near the station, before exploring highlights, such as the historic lanes of the Higashi Chaya district and Kenroku-en, one of Japan’s top-three traditional gardens. Don’t miss the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, with world-class exhibitions housed within clean, minimal lines of curved concrete and glass designed by architects Sanaa.

Day 5, Kaga Onsen

Recharge in an onsen

Yamashiro Onsen in the 1300-year-old hot spring resort town of Kaga Onsen.Credit: Getty Images

This is often when jetlag fatigue kicks in: take a break from exploring and jump on a 45-minute train to Kaga Onsen (about halfway between Kanazawa and Kyoto), home to a hub of generations-old onsen ryokan inns. One stand-out gem is Beniya Mukayu – an innovative family-run inn that exudes a sense of stillness and beauty – through its seamless blend of ryokan heritage, intuitive omotenashi hospitality, tea culture and delicious cuisine mixed with contemporary design and art installations alongside a serene green garden. Not to forget its onsen bathing: recharge with addictively restorative soaks in its mineral-rich hot spring baths. Stay the night to wake feeling refreshed.

Day 6 & 7 Kyoto

The ancient city

Kyoto’s atmospheric Ponto-cho district at night.Credit: iStock

It may be famously busy, but a trip to Japan is still incomplete without a visit to the ancient city and time-capsule of traditional culture: Kyoto. Take a Thunderbird train from Kaga Onsen to Kyoto Station (around one hour 45 minutes).

Despite the furore over tourist volumes, visitors tend to stick to the same places – making certain spots intensely busy, while others are refreshingly peaceful. It’s worth checking out different neighbourhoods and smaller temples for a taste of local Kyoto. Staying at Aman Kyoto is a good example of this: it’s located in the rural north-eastern reaches of the city, with countless local makers, temples, shrines on its doorstep (accessible via hotel bicycles). For those who prefer to be in the heart of the city, the Shinmonzen, a beautiful art-packed Tadao Ando-designed hotel, is located in geisha district Gion, which is bracingly busy – yet this hotel sits on one of the quieter streets, overlooking a serene river, making it the perfect spot to pause and recharge.

Aman Kyoto’s west-facing Kaede room.

See the sights
A day of exploring. Rise early (to avoid the crowds) if visiting popular spots such as the Philosopher’s Path, the stunning hilltop Kiyomizu-dera temple and Nijo Castle. The best way to enjoy the grid-lined lanes of Kyoto is on two wheels: hire a bicycle (Kyoto Eco Trip can deliver them to your hotel). Explore the historic green gardens at Gosho – the Imperial Palace Park – and temples which tend to be a bit quieter, such as Yoshimine-dera and Daitoku-ji. At the end of the day, treat yourself to a poetically crafted Kyoto dinner in a serene traditional setting, at the Michelin-star-worthy Kikunoi Honten.

Day 8, Koya San

The sacred mountain

Sacred Buddhist site Okunoin cemetery at Mount Koya.Credit: iStock

Another early start to bid Kyoto sayonara and embark for Mount Koya, one of the nation’s most sacred mountains, in Wakayama prefecture. After a string of trains, take a cable car to reach the mountaintop town. Upon arrival, check into Fudo-in, one of countless local temples that take in guests. Then stroll among the exquisite temple architecture before viewing the tombstones deep in the forest at Okunoin, Japan’s biggest cemetery. Back at the temple, tuck into a vegetarian Buddhist dinner.

Day 9 & 10, Osaka

Japan’s second city

The Grand Roof (Ring) at the World Expo 2025 Osaka at Yumeshima.Credit: Getty Images

Witness the monks’ pre-sunrise prayers, complete with drumbeats, chanting and incense burning before a gold altar. After breakfast, head back down to earth on the cable car – and travel by train to Osaka.

Heaven for foodies, Japan’s second-biggest city is famed for its down-to-earth atmosphere and boisterous nightlife. It’s also the setting for Osaka Expo 2025, running from April 13 to October 13. Head to Yumeshina on Osaka Bay to explore a string of international pavilions wrapped in a giant wooden ring designed by architect Sou Fujimoto (be sure to book tickets in advance).

Check into the Four Seasons Osaka for a cloud-brushing taste of luxury; or Zentis Osaka for a less-pricey design hotel experience.

Cookery, culture and karaoke

Learn to make okonomiyaki pancakes.Credit: iStock

Learn how to make Osakan street food – from okonomiyaki pancakes to udon noodles – at an Eat Osaka cookery class run by local mothers.

Nakanoshima is also worth exploring – home to a growing hub of museums and culture spots. Take your pick from the Nakanoshima Museum of Art, the Museum of Oriental Ceramics and the Nakanoshima Children’s Book Forest, a library designed by legendary Osakan architect Tadao Ando. In the evening, drink beer with locals in an izakaya-style pub, before letting off steam at karaoke.

Day 11, 12 & 13, Naoshima

Island life
Next, head out to sea. Take two trains to Uno port in Kagawa prefecture, and then a private boat to Naoshima. A contemporary art mecca, this small fishing island is a textbook template of how to revitalise an ageing rural community through art. This year, the acclaimed (and ever-growing) Setouchi Triennale returns, a 100-day contemporary art festival spanning 17 islands and coastal areas, which started on April 18 (setouchi-artfest.jp).

Yayoi Kusama’s artwork Pumpkin on Japan’s “art island” Naoshima.Credit: Getty Images

The best place to stay is Benesse House a sleek minimal concrete space by the architect Tadao Ando. Check in for two nights before exploring the subterranean Chichu museum, with its treasured Monet Water Lilies, art installations on local wooden houses, and the abstract rock installations in the Lee Ufan Museum.

Remote beaches and rural creativity
Hop on a local ferry to neighbouring island Teshima. Here, hire an electric bicycle at the port and cycle across the hilly rural landscape, soaking up the creative atmosphere – from the minimal white Teshima Art Museum, inspired by a drop of water, to Christian Boltanski’s installation on a remote beach where visitors can record their own heartbeat. Return to Naoshima and finish up with a muscle-warming soak at I Love Yu, a kitsch bathhouse in Miyanoura Port.

Art experiences
Take a ferry back to Takamatsu Port. Next stop: Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum. It was in the tiny village of Mure that the sculptor built his home and studio, both painstakingly preserved – in a beautiful natural setting (an advance appointment is essential). Take a 20-minute train ride to Furutakamatsu Minami and a 10-minute taxi, before being escorted through the intimately scattered abstract artworks.

Head to Takamatsu airport and fly to Tokyo Haneda. For a final touch of luxury, check into the Palace Hotel, which fuses contemporary comforts and quality design with legendary hospitality, in a prime location overlooking the Imperial Palace moat.

Day 14, Tokyo - Final farewell

Autumn foilage in Yoyogi Park.

Request a table on the terrace for your final breakfast (looking out for passing swans). If you have time, enjoy some last-minute shopping – from the boutiques and flagships of Omotesando to the department stores of Ginza.

The details

When to go
Autumn is perhaps the best time of the year to visit, with mild weather, blue skies and vivid landscapes of fiery-leafed trees. From late December and early January, temperatures drop – making it a good time to head to a northern ski resort or south for some Okinawan winter sunshine. Spring brings the iconic cherry blossom season (and lots of crowds). Golden Week around May is best avoided as it’s so busy. July and August are uncomfortably hot and humid in Tokyo and Kyoto – making it a good time to escape to the cooler green mountains of northern Japan.

Tour
Among the best independent Japan travel specialists is InsideJapan (insidejapantours.com/au), with its vast network of contacts and expertise for all budgets. It offers a 14-day Japan Unmasked small group tour costing $7130pp (excluding flights). The trip passes through Tokyo, Nagano, Matsumoto, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Kurashiki, with the price including 13 nights accommodation, transport, some private guiding and experiences such as a walking tour through Gion (geisha district) and a cycling tour of the Kibi Plain.

Ultimate luxury
At the more luxury end of the spectrum, Black Tomato (blacktomato.com) can curate a high-end bespoke itinerary from $124,000 for a group of four people (excluding flights), including top accommodation (including Benesse House on Naoshima and Beniya Mukayu), a string of curated experiences and private guiding.

On a budget
If your short on time and money, Intrepid Travel has a nine-day “Japan Express” tour taking in Tokyo, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Osaka by bullet train, starting from $2556 per person excluding flights.

Insider tips

• If you’re travelling independently and taking more than one bullet train trip, it’s worth investing in a Japan Rail Pass, purchasing it ahead of arrival, so you can travel anywhere on the JR network.
• If you have large suitcases or ski equipment, there is a nationwide service which can deliver your luggage ahead of you – to hotels and airports, for example – typically arriving a day after sending. It can be organised by most hotels or at 7-Eleven convenience stores. Otherwise, it’s worth bearing in mind that on bullet trains, you have to book space on board for large luggage.
• Pick up a bento box to savour while on board bullet trains: most train stations offer a wide range of bento boxes, often showcasing regional ingredients.
• Cash is still used far more widely than in many other destinations; for ATMs that are compatible with international bank cards, head to any 7-Eleven or post office.
• Don’t open or close taxi doors; the white-gloved driver may be a bit upset (they pride themselves on operating the doors). And there is no tipping culture.
• Bring nice socks, ideally without holes, as you will be slipping your shoes on and off repeatedly, particularly in temples and ryokan inns.
• In winter, especially if it’s chilly in rural spots such as Mount Koya, pick up some “kairo” heat pads in the local convenience store to warm you up.

The Telegraph, London