How does Vanuatu compare with holiday favourite Fiji? I found out

We reach the small island of Lelepa via runabout, gliding over impossibly clear turquoise water, waving at locals in other boats as we pass. Located to the north-west of Vanuatu’s main Efate Island, Lelepa and neighbouring island, Moso, form Havannah Harbour, named after HMS Havannah, which anchored here in the mid-1800s.

We’re here as part of a fleeting visit for Qantas’ new Brisbane to Port Vila flights – ticking off Efate’s main sights, boutique places to stay, and experiencing how easy it is to reach this underrated South Pacific gem a little over two hours from Australia.

Pristine shores of Moso, an island off the northwest coast of Efate.

Despite a 7.3-magnitude earthquake last December, all four airlines operating between Australia and Vanuatu have maintained their schedules, 80 per cent of hotels and resorts have reopened, and essential services are restored. Parts of the capital, Port Vila, are slowly reopening, including some businesses along the waterfront.

After a dip in water so clear you can see colourful fish and coral even without a mask (handy as we didn’t bring one), we visit the village of Vanuatu’s last paramount chief, King Roi Mata. Wading ashore at Mangas Village, where the chief once resided, a family from Lelepa arrive in search of food. The 500 Ni Vanuatu (Ni-Van) who live on Lelepa have no power or running water and live completely off the land and sea. “Wild pigs ruined their crops,” our guide, Koko Jimmy, tells us. They leave with enormous bunches of bananas and papaya.

Havannah Boat House.

We learn all about the chief – particularly his legacy of social reforms that resulted in peaceful tribal relations and the ending of cannibalism. The tour usually includes a visit to Eretoka (or Hat) Island, a mass burial site of the revered chief and the 50 or more unfortunate individuals buried alive with him. Today, the sea’s too rough, so instead, Jimmy regales us with a horrifying tale of how family and close tribal members joined the chief’s journey to the afterlife. The men apparently went willingly and (mercifully) intoxicated by kava.

The women (customarily not allowed kava) were discovered with arms reaching up through the earth, which will forever be a terrifying image imprinted on my brain. The chief’s village, neighbouring (and currently closed) Fels cave, where the chief died, and Eretoka Island were UNESCO World Heritage-listed in 2008. Named for its convex bump in the middle, the uninhabited coral atoll is steeped in legend, while its pristine fringing reef offers some of Efate’s best snorkelling.

Havannah Boat House (HBH), located on the harbour’s tranquil north-western side, is our home for the first two nights. Designed by sustainable Australian studio Troppo Architects, HBH is laid out like a mini village, where crushed coral paths weave between four buildings and a living space, lush gardens and a pool throughout the waterfront estate. I’m in the self-contained Boat House perched on the water’s edge, which comes with a new plunge pool and a jetty crafted from salvaged timber.

Havannah Boat House.Credit: Vanuatu Tourism Office

Australian owner Miranda Hodge came to Vanuatu in 2013 and fell in love with the pristine environment, the warmth of the people and the simplicity of island life. She built HBH in 2014 as a holiday house, later converting it into the chic boutique accommodation it is today. While the property officially launched in 2022, the pandemic and subsequent border closures mean it’s largely flown under the radar. It escaped damage in the earthquake.

“We’ve created an offering designed to exemplify sustainability. From fusion food adventures, wellbeing experiences, pottery and weaving with local craftsmen, every aspect is designed to provide travellers with an authentic Ni-Vanuatu experience,” she says.

Pre-dinner sundowners crafted from 83 Islands Distillery spirits (named for Vanuatu’s 83 islands) are served on our arrival while an acoustic duo serenades us around a fire pit. The sky turns fairy-floss pink as we sit down in the open-air nakamal (traditional meeting place) for dinner aimed at showcasing locally grown produce prepared by K2 Kitchen, also owned by Hodge.

Visit 83 Island Distillery or stop by their stall on market day.Credit: Vanuatu Tourism Office

Designed as a place to learn about local “kastoms” and to slow down, we soon fall for HBH’s seductive rhythm. Guests can enjoy a private massage, nap on daybeds as waves lap the shore, or take a pottery or basket weaving class with Brent Malessas from the onsite pottery and handicraft studio. We have a lot of ground to cover, however, so we (reluctantly) drag ourselves away from the hammocks strung between palm trees.

Having visited Fiji countless times, I’m keen to see the difference between the two Pacific nations. Previously I’d only ever passed through the harbourside capital Port Vila, never lingering long enough to know it well. One of the first noticeable disparities – especially between Fiji’s main island Viti Levu and Efate – is it’s easier to reach key attractions and dine outside your accommodation, with as many travellers choosing to stay in holiday houses (owned mainly by Kiwis and Australians) as they do resorts.

Tourism is not as developed in Vanuatu as it is in Fiji, and self-drive holidays make more sense, especially on Efate. Given the Ring Road that circumnavigates the island is only 122 kilometres long, you can easily drive it in less than a day (be warned: the roads are in shocking condition, so drive accordingly).

Sapphire swims at the iconic Blue Lagoon.Credit: Vanuatu Tourism Office

In Vanuatu, most resorts accept outside visitors, and you can pop in for lunch or dinner, stop by the aforementioned 83 Islands Distillery for cocktails and live music or swim at beautiful beaches. Top Rock, roughly 45 minutes from Port Vila, is a must for phenomenal snorkelling (go on high tide) and a simple meal of fresh grilled fish and chips at its rustic cafe. It’s also easier (and cheaper) than Fiji to visit smaller islands just offshore by boat for trekking, snorkelling, diving and dining at tropical resorts where waves lap the shore.

We spend the next few days doing all of the above: traversing Efate, island hopping and experiencing authentic hospitality from welcoming locals. Fijians are renowned as being some of the happiest people on earth; in Vanuatu, the locals are no less friendly, just more reserved until they get to know you. We swim in the iconic Blue Lagoon, the mixing of fresh and saltwater giving it its striking sapphire colour. Squealing kids (and game dads) swing out on rope swings or leap from platforms into the deep blue water.

Natural rock waterslide at Eden on the River.Credit: David Kirkland

At Eden on the River, you can enter the freshwater Rentapau River by whizzing down a natural rock waterslide on tyre tubes. There are rock pools to explore, a rustic cafe for lunch, friendly dogs to pat and suspension bridges above the water to traverse wearing a harness.

We also do a sunset cruise aboard Major Tom, a sailing boat recently relocated to Vanuatu by Australians Ben Price and Emily Phe. Bowie, their dog, is a crew member and designated safety officer, but waste manager would be more apt as he happily devours any titbits offered by guests.

A circuit takes visitors across a series of suspended bridges at Eden on the River.Credit: Vanuatu Tourism Office

Born from a shared love for the open sea, Sailing Vanuatu now offers day tours that include snorkelling, island visits and barbecue lunches while overnight sailings are imminent.

Up on deck, the salty tropical air in my hair, Bowie waits for any morsels that may come his way. I now understand Vanuatu’s rich Melanesian culture a little better and have fallen hard for the island’s laid-back charm. I cannot wait to return and experience its beauty and the warmth and resilience of its people once more.

Five places to stay

Budget
Offering three BYO self-contained bungalows in lush tropical gardens, Whispering Palms sits along Undine Bay in Siviri Village. Swim, kayak or snorkel two stunning reefs directly from your own private white sand beach. Warm, friendly staff welcome you like family. Ask Pete for a coconut demonstration. From $219 a night, minimum two-night stay. See whisperingpalms.guestybookings.com/en

Mid-range
Australian-owned and run M Resort and Spa opened last year with more bungalows planned. Located between Eretoka and Lelepa Islands, dine on contemporary Pacific-inspired cuisine with an Asian bent crafted from locally caught and grown produce at the breezy onsite restaurant and take a dip in the new infinity pool. Experience blazing sunsets, tropical cocktails and phenomenal snorkelling in marine-protected reefs. From $350 a night. See mresortvanuatu.com

​​The Moso
Getting to this boutique resort located on the sparsely inhabited Moso Island by speedboat is half the fun. You’ll find 11 adults-only villas, some with private plunge pools, breezy bistro, new bar, day spa, and a swish new Hilltop Residence with a sunken lounge and private pool. Three new beachfront lap pool villas open this month (April 2025). Nearby snorkel secluded reefs with hidden underwater caves. From $535 a night. See themosovanuatu.com

Blow the budget
The Havannah Vanuatu (reopening in August 2025) offers 17 swish adults-only villas overlooking the ocean, including eight with private pools. A National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World member, the five-star beachfront resort is underpinned by a strong, sustainable ethos. A weekly fire show and snorkelling with turtles are highlights. From $850 a night for two, including all meals, sunset cruise, afternoon tea and more. See thehavannah.com

The Havannah Boat House (HBH) sleeps eight in the residence and up to three in a self-contained boat house complete with its own jetty and plunge pool. From $2500 a night for the residence. See havannahboathouse.com

The details

Tour
The Roi Mata’s Domain tour includes transfers, boat to the islands, lunch and snorkelling at Hat Island from VT10,000 ($126) per person. Phone: [phone]. See vanuatu.travel/au

Fly
Qantas offers three direct Brisbane to Port Vila flights per week. Jetstar launches direct flights from Sydney four times weekly from December 12. See qantas.com

More
vanuatu.travel/au

The writer travelled to Vanuatu as a guest of Vanuatu Tourism and Qantas.