Hotel Des Arts Saigon review, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam: Cool luxury will transport you to an era long gone

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After a harrowing 13-hour delay that turned my late afternoon arrival into a late morning one in Ho Chi Minh, I'm ushered to a seat at the front desk and offered a refreshing welcome drink after staff rush to grab my luggage. It goes without saying that the friendly and professional staff are part of Accor's boutique MGallery experience, and the vibe is instantly calming as you take in the hotel's grand lobby, which sits adjacent to a lounge housing a grand piano and overlooking a leafy courtyard. The central hotel is not far from the airport - about six kilometres - but the traffic in this city of almost nine million people means a slow crawl through the city to reach the hotel (it typically takes between 15 and 40 minutes).

THE LOOK

This luxurious hotel is a respite from the hustle and bustle of the city outside its doors. Paying homage to the French Indochina era of the 1930s, the hotel combines glamour, mystique and comfort with modern flair, such as the spectacular light fittings and modern Vietnamese art.

THE ROOM

I was delighted to enter the room after my less than glamorous flight, starving and caffeine deprived, to discover a mini-high tea consisting of tiny focaccia with cheese and sundried tomato; tropical fruits, and petite fours - irresistible, tiny bite sized pieces of light zesty cheesecake, and variations of French chocolate pastries. The Nescafe pod machine was less perfect, but did the job, nonetheless. After taking leave of my room to explore in the afternoon, the housekeeping fairies came in and replaced my towels, my water and my coffee pods, and hopefully forgave the mess Hurricane Kylie had left in her rush to explore the city for one solitary afternoon.

But I digress: the beautiful art deco rooms have distinctive curved windows that offer views of the city. The bathroom and bedroom with king sized bed are separated by curtain only, with separate cubicles for the shower and toilet, marble benches and tiles and toiletries from Balmain Paris.

FOOD + DRINK

This is one of those hotels where it would be perfectly acceptable to spend every meal eating inside its walls. Breakfast is impressive, with an array of breads and pastries and homemade jams, bright tropical fruits, baby banh mi, and a signature salmon pho, served on colourful Vietnamese crockery. Mesmerising views of the city beckon from the crowded Social Club rooftop bar on a Friday night, but I feel more at home in the speakeasy style bar downstairs, with its glorious vintage bar, mismatched upholstered armchairs, low lights and teak booths. I order a Vietnamese mango and bourbon cocktail and it arrives topped with flowers and a rosemary sprig resting on a bed of dried pineapple and drizzled with raspberry. The Eurocentric bar snacks are just as good-looking and equally delicious.

OUT + ABOUT

You're right in the heart of the city here, with some of the city's major attractions a short walk away. Food vendors line the streets, and there are also plenty of cafes and markets, as well as the city's more iconic tourist attractions such as the Post Office, the Reunification building, Notre Dame (heavily cloaked in scaffolding at time of visit, try the pink Tan Dinh church instead). As a repeat visitor, I was happy to prowl the streets to sample the city's excellent street food.

THE VERDICT

The beautiful French Indochine design of this hotel will transport you to an era long gone.

THE ESSENTIALS

Deluxe rooms start from $175 per night. 78 Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai, St, Quận 3, Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh 070000, Vietnam; hoteldesartssaigon.com

HIGHLIGHT

The Social Club's speakeasy and the rooftop pool are unmissable.

LOWLIGHT

Missing one of my two night's stay courtesy of one budget Australian airline's ridiculously long delay.

OUR RATING OUT OF FIVE

★★★★

The writer stayed as a guest of Accor Hotels.