Forget Thailand and Vietnam: South-East Asia’s enticing new travel frontier

When Sarorn Chea first heard that land neighbouring his village near Cardamom National Park was earmarked for a luxury resort, he had no idea what that meant, let alone why foreigners would want to come to this remote part of Cambodia. To him, the forest was simply a means of survival – a place to forage, to hunt, and, if necessary, to eke a living from illegal logging.

But opportunity knocks in the least likely places – fast-forward three years and Sarorn is a valued member of Shinta Mani Wild’s hospitality team, having taught himself English from a smartphone and worked his way up from resort construction to his dream job as an adventure butler.

Westerners live a life of luxury at Cambodia’s Shinta Mani Wild.

During a hike through the jungle – following a short-cut trail forged by Sarorn himself, who knows this land like the back of his hand – I ask him how he feels to have Westerners living a life of luxury on his doorstep. Without a touch of resentment, he explains how the opportunity for employment has transformed his life: he has his own house and family members profit from passing trade, while many of his friends work alongside him at the resort.

He is also a mouthpiece for conservation, convincing villagers still involved in poaching about the economic benefits of protecting wildlife, rather than stripping the land of its natural assets.

Reaching for the sky

Cambodia’s capital Phnom Penh starts to resemble Bangkok as infrastructure accelerates.Credit: Getty

Cambodia is a nation in fast-forward, its development on steroids as skyscrapers pierce its skies and new roads, infrastructure and airports – all largely financed by Chinese interests – open trade and access to neighbouring countries.

It’s certainly come a long way since my first visit in 2009, when the poverty-ravaged nation was still emerging from the horrors of the Khmer Rouge era, war with Vietnam and decades of unrest. Today, there’s a youthful energy, optimism and determination largely driven by the tourist industry, which in 2022 earned a gross revenue of $US1.14 billion and sustained 12.4 per cent of total employment. And as luxury offerings become more prominent, so Cambodia is being perceived as a viable alternative to neighbouring Thailand or Vietnam, a new, enticing frontier for high-end travellers.

To experience the best that Cambodia offers, I’ve joined the Ultimate Luxury Tour of Cambodia, a partnership between four of the country’s most luxe hotels – Shinta Mani Angkor, Shinta Mani Wild, Rosewood Phnom Penh and Six Senses Krabey Island. This 12-night tour, encompassing three nights in each property, showcases four distinct landscapes of Cambodia – its historic temple precinct at Siem Reap, the capital city, the jungle in the south-east, and an island resort in the Gulf of Thailand.

Not only does it give a great overview of Cambodia and what it offers as a stand-alone destination, but there’s a consistent theme of conservation and empowerment, with each property committed to sustainability and supporting local communities.

Cambodia’s historic heart

Wat Bo Temple is in one of Asia’s coolest neighbourhoods.Credit: iStock

Approaching Siem Reap in the comfort of an air-conditioned limousine, I comment to my driver that this is not the dusty frontier town I first visited 15 years ago, its smooth highways, freshly planted greenery and underground electric wiring indicative of the city’s position as the jewel in Cambodia’s tourism crown.

All this happened during the pandemic, my driver explains. The town’s hospitality industry was decimated by lockdowns, so these Chinese-funded infrastructure projects forged ahead, transforming it into a showpiece, albeit one still relatively empty of visitors.

Luxuriating among the greenery in my private compound at the Bensley Collection Pool Villas, I note how Siem Reap’s potential as a luxury destination is palpable. Opened in December 2017 as an extension to the boutique Shinta Mani Angkor hotel across the road, these regal, multi-level residences tap into famed designer Bill Bensley’s penchant for amplitude, from the terraced outdoor living spaces, to the plunge pool long enough to swim laps in, and a striking Khmer-style bas-relief detailing the flowing robes of King Jayavarman that adorns the walls.

There’s an oversized bathroom that flows into a vine-choked courtyard, where a massive stone bath has been filled with pink lotus flowers. A dedicated butler is on-call via WhatsApp to address my every whim. At Son’s suggestion, I check out the cool artisan boutiques and cafes at nearby Kandal Village, as well as the up-and-coming Wat Bo – named the coolest neighbourhood in Asia in 2022 by Time Out. He also makes dinner reservations at the in-house Kroya Restaurant, its modern take on Cambodian traditional dishes by chef Chanrith deserving of its accolades as the best restaurant in town.

Of course, a visit to the Khmer temples of Angkor is a given, the wonders of bas reliefs and hidden nooks in crumbling ruins such as Bayon and Ta Prohm temples as timeless as they are intriguing. And if there’s any benefit to the post-pandemic slowdown in tourism, it’s the blessed lack of crowds at the jewel in the crown, Angkor Wat, as my private guide steers me to the best vantage points and points out details such as two apsara dancers baring their teeth in wide grins (the others all have a serene smile on their face).

City in fast-forward

City views at Rosewood Phnom Penh.

During my first visit to Phnom Penh in 2009, all the activity – and the place to be seen – was on the waterfront at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers. Today, this historic area is largely a construction site; the legendary FCC (Foreign Correspondents’ Club) is under wraps, while massive SUVs parked illegally across footpaths make a pedestrian stroll a hazardous undertaking.

Instead, savvy tourists are heading skywards, following the sudden appearance of skyscrapers to accommodation, restaurants and bars well above the chaos of the streets.

Phnom Penh’s waterfront: Still a popular place to converge.Credit: iStock

Occupying the top 14 floors of the Vattanac Capital Tower – it’s dramatic naga-like structure a symbol of the new Cambodia – Rosewood Phnom Penh offers one of the most coveted views of the city, with views to the river and the distant flashing neon of the casino district indicative of the city’s obsession with new money.

Floor-to-ceiling picture windows in my one-bedroom Mekong Suite put this incredible growth on full display, while the open deck of the Sora skybar attracts the city’s bold and beautiful as the sun dips over the horizon.

Zip into the wild

Making an entrance at Shinta Mani Wild.

A two-hour drive – on yet another spanking new highway – leads to a very different world, where forested mountains are a more natural zenith for intrepid travellers. And to enter this magical realm, I’m taking arguably the most unorthodox entry into any resort on the planet – a zipline across the treetops and over a raging waterfall into the Landing Bar at Shinta Mani Wild, where I’m greeted with a cheer and a tequila cocktail.

Another creation of Bill Bensley’s exuberant imagination, Wild was devised to honour Jackie Kennedy’s visit to Cambodia in 1967, with a fictitious safari to the Cardamom Mountains with King Sihanouk forming Bensley’s fantastical inspiration. My oversized tent, occupying a deck suspended over a tumbling cascade that creates the loudest white noise imaginable, is filled with travel memorabilia and images of the iconic widow throughout her lifetime. The other 14 tents are decorated with equally eclectic decor including elephants made of driftwood, butterfly imagery and botanical sculptures.

With Wild’s secluded location alongside a churning river, Bensley’s plan was for guests to never have to reach for their wallets during their minimum three nights’ stay. Rates include all meals, beverages, activities and unlimited spa treatments – whether in the Khmer Tonics treatment rooms tucked into the forest, in the privacy of your tent or even on a flat rock overlooking the waterfall.

From jungle treks to anti-poaching missions alongside a team of Wildlife Alliance rangers, you’re guaranteed action as well as the unexpected in this truly magnificent salute to low-impact tourism.

Coastal chic

Barefoot luxury at Six Senses Krabey Island in the Gulf of Thailand.

In another example of eco-sensitive hospitality, the protection of the pristine jungle environment at Six Senses Krabey Island in the Gulf of Thailand via bird and butterfly conservation, reef protection and zero waste and plastic initiatives sets the tone for this resort’s barefoot luxury.

After breakfast, served with ocean views at AHA Restaurant, I stroll along the shorefront Sea Breeze Walk, gazing out across clear, healthy reef waters to the mainland and the surreal monstrosity of Sihanoukville, a formerly sleepy seaside town gone rogue with its skyscraper constructions and casino-based infrastructure.

Fortunately, this pocket of resistance resounding with birdsong illustrates Cambodian tourism in its most appealing mantle – sensitive to its natural bounty, yet still catering to the whims of those seeking indulgence and pampering. Here, in my chic modern villa with its own private plunge pool, in the expansive spa – the largest in Cambodia – or in a swinging egg chair as I take in the sunset over the Gulf of Cambodia, I experience the essence of this luxury tour, savouring the rich mosaic of an intriguing and ever-evolving kingdom.

The writer was a guest of Shinta Mani Angkor, Shinta Mani Wild, Rosewood Phnom Penh and Six Senses Krabey Island.

The details

Fly
AirAsia flies from Sydney and Melbourne to Siem Reap via Kuala Lumpur, see airasia.com

Tour
The 12-night Ultimate Luxury Tour of Cambodia includes three nights each at Shinta Mani Angkor and Bensley Collection Pool Villas, Rosewood Phnom Penh, Shinta Mani Wild and Six Senses Krabey Island. It costs from $US12,900 ($19,696) for two people until October 31, 2024. Flights not included. See shintamani.com; rosewood.com; sixsenses.com