Enjoy rock-star treatment along this wild and ancient coastline

The blocky sandstone cliffs of the Wunaamin Miliwundi Range along the Hunter River are creased with fault lines and cracks, like the wrinkles in a well-aged face. And fair enough too; these are some of the oldest rocks in the Kimberley at 1.8 billion years.

They’ve seen some changes on this planet, including the evolution of multi-cellular life, and now they’re radiating a vibrant orange in the late afternoon.

The blocky cliffs along the Hunter River are some of the oldest rocks in the Kimberley.Credit: Getty Images

This river harbours living dinosaurs and from the edge of my rubber Zodiac I watch as one fearsome saltwater crocodile juggles a fish down its scaly throat. There’s a violent eruption of splashes and fins as sharks catch a snack, while a brahminy kite, its white head contrasting its chestnut body, swoops on a crab.

Spotting a larger Zodiac bobbing in the harbour, we notice those onboard are beckoning to us. On approach, we see it’s none other than our own Captain Erwan Le Rouzic, along with three others of our ship’s top brass. Two inflatable crocodiles are strapped to their bow, and as we pull up alongside, the captain thrusts a plastic flute of chilled champagne into my sweaty hand.

Living dinosaurs … the river is a haven for saltwater crocs.Credit: Getty Images

It’s as unexpected as it is welcome, and we passengers all laugh that we feel like rock stars. And we’d better get used to it. This crazy juxtaposition of luxury in a prehistoric wilderness is a hallmark of my cruise on Scenic Eclipse II, an 11-day Kimberley journey between Broome and Darwin.

The newest ship for Scenic Luxury Cruises and Tours, Scenic Eclipse II launched in 2023 and is almost identical to Scenic Eclipse, launched in 2019. Previously the company has focused on river cruising, but this year founder Glen Moroney has sent ships to his home country, Australia.

The Scenic Eclipse ships are touted as Discovery Yachts, and there certainly is a superyacht vibe. A fellow passenger says that if James Bond had a yacht, it would look like this, with a fleet of speedy Zodiacs and two jet-black helicopters. Each spacious suite has a verandah and all come with a private butler, so everyone here is a VIP.

Scenic Eclipse II … rugged wilderness meets polished luxury.

Scenic Eclipse II has plenty of cutting-edge maritime technology. According to Le Rouzic, this ship uses 30 per cent less fuel than other ships of comparable size. To reduce the environmental impact of disposable plastic, there are refillable amenity bottles and guests are provided with re-usable drink bottles.

For the captain, one of the best things about this ship is its size. With a maximum of 228 passengers, this vessel makes for easy personal connections.

“Something I don’t really like much is that cruise ships are getting bigger and bigger,” Le Rouzic says, adding that he once captained a ship of 2000 passengers. “The ships have tripled and quadrupled since then. It’s to the point that the guests may forget they are even on a ship!”

On this cruise, the only time I forget I’m on a ship is when I’m dining like a celebrity. We may be in the wilderness, but sublime meals, from casual to degustation, are created by 38 chefs in nine kitchens. Overseeing them is Tom Goetter, vice president of oceans hotel operations for Scenic, himself a celebrity chef, having appeared on US television’s reality series, Top Chef: World All-Stars.

Off-ship Kimberley experiences via Zodiacs are astonishing.

Goetter’s own onboard restaurant is the invitation-only Chef’s Table, seating just 10 guests for 10 experimental courses paired with a flight of 10 international wines. Goetter hands each of us a mini tool kit, explaining each course requires our participation. Highlights include a burrito “cigar” dipped in dehydrated vegetable “ash”, and spraying vinegar onto the fairy floss surrounding a foie gras toffee apple.

Not only is the food exceptional, but the staff cannot do enough for us, soon learning our names and dining preferences. In the Azure Cafe, a guest is handed a pastry and cappuccino.

“I didn’t order that,” he says, “but I was going to!”

Evenings bring plenty of entertainment. A guitarist provides atmosphere in the bar, and two vocalists deliver toe-tapping concerts in the theatre and even on the moonlit heli-deck. For mine, the Discovery Team of 14 science and history guides (known by the more show-biz sounding “Disco Team”) steals the show.

We appreciate the power and wonder of the Horizontal Falls.

Each night we’re entertained with relevant mini-lectures, such as the marine biology of the Kimberley or Indigenous rock art. Leader Mike Cusack entertains with briefings about the next day’s adventures.

Turns out, Cusack himself is a bona fide rock star. In 1987, Cusack and wife Susan spent a year living virtually unassisted in the remote Kimberley as the “Wilderness Couple” for Australian Geographic. Cusack delivers a lecture on their trials and tribulations, and I’m left awestruck.

Not all of us fancy a year in the wilderness, though we relish a couple of hours, and our off-ship experiences are gobsmacking. At the Horizontal Falls, we board the Zodiacs to feel the power of the 11-metre tides forcing seawater through a narrow gap in an upthrust ridgeline. Unlike larger tour boats that zoom through the falls, we’re simply appreciating the wonder of this place, and slowly touring Cyclone Creek, where eddies and buckled strata speak of the forces at play.

At Montgomery Reef we’re up early to accommodate the whims of the tide. We chug through natural drainage channels as water cascades off this living coral structure, which stands almost five metres proud of the surface at low tide. Before us, turtles take a breath, tawny nurse sharks skitter and egrets gobble stranded fish. Less than two hours later as our ship glides onwards, the reef has disappeared, swallowed by the tide.

Montgomery Reef … water cascades off this living coral structure.

As we cruise, we see no towns and few boats. But people are here, and have always been, and it’s a privilege to witness Indigenous culture first-hand.

At Wijingarra Butt Butt (Freshwater Cove) we land on Worrorra country to meet the Dambimangari traditional owners. Gideon Mowaljarlai tells us the legend of the spotted quoll and welcomes us with a dab of ochre each on the face. We hike up to Cyclone Cave, a rocky overhang adorned with Wandjina style art, where Neil Maru points out images of stingrays, giant dragonflies, night jars and the spiderweb-like cyclone itself.

Traditional owners cannot always be on-site, and at Swift Bay, our own Disco Team reads out information from the Wunambal Gaambera people. In this special cave, surrounded by a vast shell midden, the ethereal Wandjina, the wide-eyed, mouthless creation beings, have peered from the walls and ceilings for millennia.

The Disco Team have laid tarps under the overhang. On my back, I stare up in silence, lingering to untangle layers of rock wallabies, mythological monsters and human hand stencils. It’s a spiritual place, and there are human remains, tucked into a crevice.

At Jar Island, we find the Gwion Gwion art, sometimes called Bradshaw art. We leave hats and backpacks outside the chasm, lest they damage the walls. Slender figures are depicted with tasselled headdresses and dilly bags, a window to ancient history. When our guides explain these images are at least 17,300 years old, it’s a goosebumps moment. The Disco Team interprets these sites with such deep respect, doing the traditional owners proud.

A scenic heli flight is a Kimberley highlight.

The following morning I join a beach excursion of a different kind, stepping into a Zodiac full of exercise mats and would-be yogis. As an osprey looks on, we go through our downward dogs to the chattering of terns, and I wonder whether any non-Indigenous humans have stood here before.

Before finishing in Darwin, the Kimberley has a final highlight. Rising from the deck in a H130 helicopter in the early morning sunshine, I behold the twin King George Falls plummeting 80 metres to the tidal gorge below. As the chopper circles back along this roadless coastline, I spot crocodiles and turtles in the turquoise waters.

The adventure doesn’t end there. Next, I’m zipping upstream in a Zodiac between towering cliffs. Approaching the falls themselves, we pack cameras and outer clothing into a waterproof bag, before chugging in slow motion into the hammering waterfall. I hear myself scream, and it’s not just the cold.

Thoroughly drenched yet laughing with other guests, I realise I’m not a rock star after all. I’m a tiny speck on this planet whose biggest thrill is to be in this boat, under a waterfall, touching the wild. For me, this is the best luxury of all.

Mind you, a champagne in the spa pool later might be nice.

The details

Cruise
An 11 day all-inclusive itinerary on-board Scenic Eclipse II in The Kimberely costs $19,715 a person inclusive of excursions, meals in all restaurants, alcohol and room service. Helicopters and spa treatments additional charge. Trips in 2025 depart Darwin to Broome July 21 and August 10. Reverse direction, Broome to Darwin July 21 and September 17.
See scenic.com.au

Fly
During the cruising season, Qantas flies direct to Broome from Sydney or Melbourne several times a week. Virgin Australia and Qantas offer connections to Broome via Perth several times a day. From Darwin, flights are available to all capital cities with Qantas, Virgin or Jetstar. See qantas.com, virginaustralia.com; jetstar.com

The writer travelled as a guest of Scenic Luxury Cruises and Tours.