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Birmingham, UK travel guide and things to do: Commonwealth Games city will surprise you

By Steve Meacham
Victoria Square featuring the fountain nicknamed 'The Floozie In the Jacuzzi'.

Victoria Square featuring the fountain nicknamed 'The Floozie In the Jacuzzi'.Credit: iStock

"Brum" - as Britain's second largest city Birmingham is affectionately known - has endured a wicked press during the 300 years since it morphed from a small Midlands market town into the engineering powerhouse of Queen Victoria's empire. All that is due to change when the re-emergent city becomes the focal point for the 2022 Commonwealth Games (from July 28 to August 8).

These games celebrate the attractions of not just a mere city but an entire region: the West Midlands. Venues stretch from Coventry and Solihull in the south east to Wolverhampton, Royal Sutton Coldfield and Cannock Chase in the north.

Whether you attend the games or see them and the venues on a screen, there are many experiences you can enjoy in the West Midlands next time you're scheduling a trip to Britain. Some will surprise you.

CLOSE TO BRUM

ROYAL LEAMINGTON SPA Situated on the River Leam, this underrated town is celebrated for its Georgian architecture, wide boulevards, restaurants and boutiques, all within a 10 minute walk. In the 1780s, Leamington was transformed by the British aristocracy who came to "take the waters". A young Queen Victoria wallowed in the spa in 1838, granting the town its royal title. The Royal Pump Rooms, built in 1814, now house the resort's art gallery and museum. (Commonwealth Games event: Lawn bowls; 33 kilometres from Birmingham by train). See royal-leamington-spa.co.uk

Credit: iStock

COVENTRY No other site in Britain offers a reminder of how close Hitler came to conquering Europe than the twin Coventry cathedrals. The "old" cathedral was bombed by the Luftwaffe on November 14 1940, yet its spire remains the third highest in England. The "new" St Michael's - linked to the old by barely a dozen footsteps - is that rarity: an architectural beauty from the 1950s/60s. Graham Sutherland's immense tapestry and the incandescent stained glass windows are worth the visit alone. (Rugby sevens, judo, wrestling; 27 kilometres by train). See coventrycathedral.org.uk

Credit: iStock

WARWICK It's home to one of Britain's most picturesque medieval castles, mainly the work of Henry II (who lived from 1133 to 1189), England's first Plantagenet king. Apart from its towering position on an escarpment over the beautiful River Avon, the castle offers dungeons, falcon displays and cream teas. (Road cycling; 45 kilometres by train). See warwick-castle.com

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SUTTON PARK Once a royal hunting forest, it's now among the largest urban parks in Europe, encompassing heath, wetlands, marshes and seven lakes - including Powell's Pool which will feature in the triathlon. Pause to visit the grandly-named 'Royal Town of Sutton Coldfield' with a rich royal pedigree it never ceases to boast about. (Triathlon, cycling; 10 kilometres by train). See visitbirmingham.com

CANNOCK CHASE "The Chase" is another former royal hunting ground, now under the auspices of Forestry England, and one of Britain's prestigious Areas of Outstanding Beauty. Today it's famed for its mountain biking (you can hire a bike at several outlets) , woodland walks, orienteering trails and a Go Ape children's adventure activity area. (Mountain biking; 25 kilometres to Cannock by train). See cannock-chase.co.uk

IN BRUM ITSELF

VICTORIA SQUARE Birmingham's pedestrianised equivalent of London's Trafalgar Square is equally blessed with magnificent Victorian-era architecture - including the imposing Town Hall, Council House and the Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery (with one of the world's greatest Pre-Raphaelite collections). The square also boasts some of Britain's most eclectic public sculptures. The most famous is the recently restored water fountain featuring a giant naked nymph, known colloquially as 'The Floozie In the Jacuzzi'. Special events are held in the square throughout the year - including the largest German Christmas Fair outside Germany or Austria. (The marathon finishes at Victoria Square). See birminghammuseums.org.uk

ALEXANDER STADIUM Even before a £72 million ($126 million) revamp, this was considered the spiritual home of British athletics. Watch out for other events that will be held there after the 2022 Games, most notably the Diamond League "meets" which always contain a host of world class athletes. (Opening and closing ceremonies, athletics). See birmingham.gov.uk/alexander

EDGBASTON CRICKET GROUND Edgbaston - which held its first Test (against Australia) in 1902 - is one of the most atmospheric grounds in the world, especially when India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka or Bangladesh are involved because of Birmingham's large local population with Asian heritage (if you didn't know, Brum is Britain's curry capital - claiming that it's where the balti was invented). Cricket fans will already know Edgbaston hosts the first Ashes Test next year. (Women's T20 cricket). See edgbaston.com

ARENA BIRMINGHAM Each year the third largest indoor arena in the UK hosts over 100 events, but that's not its only attraction. Like the National Sea Life Centre and the Birmingham Symphony Hall, it's situated in the heart of Brum's rejuvenated canal precinct. Four of Britain's most important Industrial Revolution-Age canals met here: the Grand Union, the Worcester and Birmingham, the Stourbridge and the Stratford - transporting raw materials and finished products to and from "the dark Satanic mills" of Blake's hymn Jerusalem. Today the "Old Turn Junction" is a great place to start a stroll along the towpath and watch the mooring "narrow boats" before popping into one of the many pubs or restaurants. (Artistic, rhythmic gymnastics). See visitbirmingham.com

UNIVERSITY OF BIRMINGHAM Though best known for its contribution to science and medicine (11 Nobel Prize winners), the city's oldest uni is a must-visit if you enjoy art and architecture. The Barber Institute of Fine Arts, housed in an Art Deco masterpiece, contains famous works by Van Gogh, Turner, Botticelli, Rubens, Monet, Degas and Rodin. The Chancellor's Court is dominated by "Old Joe", the Joseph Chamberlain Memorial Clock Tower, which, at 100 metres tall is the largest freestanding clock tower and campanile in the world. (Hockey, squash). See barber.org.uk

THE NATIONAL EXHIBITION CENTRE If you're flying in or out of Birmingham's international airport you're bound to spot it. Opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 1976, the rebranded "nec" now has 20 interconnecting "halls", hosting everything from the 2022 Horse of the Year Show in October to The Toy Collector's Fair in December. Check what's on when you're passing. (Weightlifting, para weightlifting, netball, boxing and badminton). See thenec.co.uk

FIVE 2022 GAMES FACTS

Perry, the Games' mascot, is a multi-coloured bull - reflecting both Birmingham's former history as a market town selling cattle and its modern incarnation as a multi-cultural city.

Sixty four of the 72 nations and territories of the Commonwealth will compete in 19 sports (one more than in the Gold Coast 2018 Games).

Originally the 2022 Games were awarded to Durban, South Africa and due to start on July 18 - Nelson Mandela's birthday.

Estimated to cost £778 million, this will be the biggest sporting event held in the UK since the 2012 London Olympics.

Australia has hosted the Commonwealth Games more times (five) than any other country - and is sending one of the largest teams.

AND OTHER GOLD MEDALS GO TO…

Though neither is officially part of these Games, you'd miss out out on Brum's rich experience if you didn't visit:

THE JEWELLERY QUARTER: More gold and silver (search elsewhere for bronze) is crafted and sold in this low rise district than anywhere else in the UK.

For two centuries "the quarter" has been the hub of Britain's hand-crafted gem and precious metal industry.

From exquisitely-cut diamonds and sapphires to gold bullion (should you need it), search these unimposing streets- and discover they're as enticing as any Aladdin's cave. Start with the quarter's museum. See

birmingham-jewellery-quarter.net

THE CHOCOLATE BLOCK: Any lover of the cacao-based delicacy will know of Old Gold, the dark chocolate produced by Cadbury's since World War I.

Quaker (hence teetotaller) John Cadbury opened a grocery shop in Brum's centre selling drinking chocolate as an alternative to alcohol.

His first 'eating chocolate' proved so lucrative his sons moved the business to a purpose-built 'garden city' on the (then) outskirts of the city. They called it Bournville.

Today the site is home to Cadbury World, a chocolate-themed park as close to Willy Wonka as any of us are likely to get. See cadburyworld.co.uk

THE DETAILS

FLY

Birmingham's international airport is served by several airlines with connections to Australia, including Emirates, KLM, Swiss and Lufthansa. birminghamairport.co.uk.

DRIVE

Birmingham is three hours by motorway from Heathrow.

RAIL

More than 100 trains run from London to Birmingham every day, from Marylebone or Euston stations.

GAMES

For general information (and last minute tickets), see birmingham2022.com

MORE

traveller.com.au/england

visitbirmingham.com

Steve Meacham travelled at his own expense.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/traveller/inspiration/birmingham-uk-travel-guide-and-things-to-do-commonwealth-games-city-will-surprise-you-20220711-h25046.html