Best short-haul destinations: Auckland, New Zealand
The bottom line Three hours and five minutes from Sydney (2155 km) and three hours and 35 minutes from Melbourne (2624 km) with a two-hour time difference (AEST) between Sydney and Melbourne.
Why go Cuz, it’s there. Once the harbour city you were having when you weren’t quite having Sydney, New Zealand’s biggest city has been utterly transformed by the dramatic redevelopment of its once no-go waterfront as well as a quality food scene. Driven (helmed?) in large part by New Zealand’s prodigious America’s Cup yachting success, Auckland, also called Tamaki Makaurau in Maori, has emerged as the premier Polynesian city and one of the best capitals in our South Pacific backyard for a sophisticated short city break.
Duration of stay Four to five days.
See + do Dominated by the imposing Edwardian baroque Ferry Building inspired by the San Francisco equivalent, it makes sense as a visitor to base yourself on the Waitemata Harbour waterfront (aucklandnz.com) fringing the compact CBD. While the waterside area is Kiwi jam packed with restaurants, bars, cafes and shops, exploring Auckland’s other neighbourhoods, such as the upscale shopping and dining hubs of Ponsonby and Parnell, is a must. Elsewhere, and easily accessed from the waterfront, the suburb of Devonport feels like an amalgam of Sydney’s Manly and Melbourne’s Williamstown, except much closer to the city. From here, after your 12-minute ferry ride, there are dramatic views of the city skyline to be savoured while the residential streets are resplendent with gorgeous timber heritage houses and lush gardens. Further from town, to the tune of a 30- to 40-minute ferry trip, Waiheke Island (newzealand.com) – “the island of wine” – has become the Auckland go-to destination for food and wine lovers but it’s by no means the only island worth a visit. An even easier ferry trip from downtown, unspoilt Rangitoto Island (doc.govt.nz) – sorry, no restaurants or wineries – with its distinctive symmetrical volcanic cone, is favoured by walkers and day-tripping nature lovers. For a different take on urban Auckland, head off along glorious Tamaki Drive (aucklandnz.com), a scenic coastal thoroughfare that traces a route out of the city alongside a procession of semi-posh suburbs.
Eat + drink
Auckland competes with Wellington for the title of New Zealand culinary capital with the former, bigger city arguably edging ahead in recent years and, for that matter, comparing well to major capitals across the Tasman. Go for gold at the newish Gilt Brasserie (giltbrasserie.nz), set inside the ground floor of historic Chancery Chambers in downtown Auckland. It’s the latest creation of Josh and Helen Emett, two of New Zealand’s most successful restaurateurs with stripes on the other side of the ditch. Elsewhere, back on the waterfront, Origine (origine.nz), a top-notch French restaurant inside the smart and fashion forward Commercial Bay shopping complex (commercialbay.co.nz), is the place to mingle with Auckland’s cognoscenti. For the more budget-minded, try the excellent food court on the same level as Origine. Across the pedestrianised mall, take in another slice of Auckland life at Daily Bread (dailybread.co.nz), a cool-crowd bakery-cum-cafe that opens early for breakfast. Back over at the aforementioned Devonport, time your visit there for brunch or lunch at Dulcie (dulcie.co.nz). Set away from the main Devonport drag, it’s a buzzy, beachside neighbourhood caf set inside an attractive light-filled heritage building (don’t miss the terrific fish’n’chips).
Stay There’s no cooler, or for that matter, greener-minded Auckland accommodation choice than the 99-room Hotel Britomart (thehotelbritomart.com). Superbly positioned steps from the revived waterfront, you’ll find yourself wanting to hang out in its public spaces including its in-house Kingi restaurant and cafe spilling out into a covered quasi laneway. Don’t forget, on check-in, to grab a copy of the hotel’s complimentary and rather brilliant pocket guide to Auckland best neighbourhoods.
Detour Time your short break to Auckland to allow for a side trip to the rural township of Matakana (matakanavillage.co.nz), under an hour by road north of the city, where a superior farmer’s markets is staged each Saturday between 8am and 1pm. The quality of the produce for sale is extraordinary and, what’s more, there’s the chance to sample some local foodstuffs such as whitebait fritters and bacon butties. Go early to eschew the crowds and allow time to take the long and scenic driving route back to Auckland including a stop at the activity-rich Goat Island (doc.govt.nz). It’s the site of New Zealand’s first marine reserve and the University of Auckland’s Marine Discovery Centre (goatislandmarine.co.nz)
Essentials Qantas and Air New Zealand operate direct daily flights to Auckland from Sydney and Melbourne. Subtropical Auckland’s warmer and drier summer months of January to April, mirroring Australia’s, are among the best times to visit. Don’t forget to take your valid passport, as required by Australian citizens. See qantas.com.
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