Opinion
Tripologist: What’s the best way to tackle Paris in one weekend?
Michael Gebicki is Traveller’s expert Tripologist. Each week he tackles the thorny issues in travel as well as answering your questions. Got a question for the Tripologist? Email tripologist@traveller.com.au
Michael Gebicki
The TripologistI’m taking my 16-year-old daughter to France in November for a language course in Rouen and a weekend in Paris. Could you suggest options for sightseeing, dining and getting around in Paris? She would love a cycling tour if it’s possible to hire a modified bike.
J Nielsen, Concord, NSW
When you arrive in Paris, take a taxi from the airport to your hotel. The metro, though convenient and cheaper, is often crowded and you don’t want to be dealing with suitcases as well as caring for your daughter. No need to book a taxi in advance, there are always plenty available. You might start off with a Bateaux Mouches boat trip along the Seine, a leisurely way to take in some of the main sights along the river. Leave the boat at the Eiffel Tower, which has elevators to take you up the tower and accessible viewing areas. The boat also stops at Ile de la Cite (where the Notre Dame Cathedral is not scheduled to reopen until December 8), but disembark and take a walk along the adjoining Ile Saint-Louis. This is a delightful part of Paris, its central Rue Saint Louis en l’Ile packed with cheese shops, patisseries, bakeries and cafes. Depending on your daughter’s mobility, from here you might walk to Place des Vosges in the Marais district, one of Paris’ prettiest squares. For getting around, taxis can be hard to flag down, but Uber is a good alternative. Bike tours are slightly problematic in Paris. The roads are busy and although there are many cycle lanes, it’s tough and slightly aggressive. For dining, I’m a fan of the city’s bouillon restaurants, established to provide cheap meals to the city’s workers, often with a strong flavour of the past. Bouillon de L’Ile and Bouillon Julien are standouts.
My husband and I are planning to drive from Denver to Los Angeles over five to seven days next June. Can you suggest a route?
J Peterson, Mount Martha, Vic
Driving west from Denver, first stop could be Glenwood Springs, the world’s largest hot springs. Don’t miss the opportunity to take a dip in the thermal pools that give this resort city its name. Continue towards Moab and after you cross the border into Utah, take Route 128 south, a scenic drive along the Colorado River. From Moab you have access to Arches National Park, Canyonlands National Park and in between, Dead Horse Point State Park, all places of incredible natural beauty. Use Moab as a base, spend a few nights and then drive north to return to Highway 70 and continue west, then turn south when you get to Highway 24 and then south again along Highway 12. This route takes you through some of the most awesome scenery in the American West, along steep cliffs, high desert and wooded mountains through Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and Bryce Canyon National Park. Spend a couple of nights in Kanab to visit Zion National Park and the north rim of the Grand Canyon, then continue to Las Vegas and onwards to Los Angeles.
We are an older couple thinking we’d like a short river cruise in Germany, up to eight days preferably along the coastline. We want to spend another 10 days exploring other parts of Germany. Any suggestions?
V Carter, Ballarat, Vic
By far the most popular German cruises are along the Rhine and Main rivers rather than along the coast. The Rhine is busier and it passes by more major industrial cities. Highlights of the Main include the wonderful Bavarian village of Miltenberg, the vine-clad hills around Wurzburg, “Pearl of the Romantic Road” and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Bamberg. Some cruises combine the Main with the Danube, and this is another great option, some starting from Frankfurt, which is the German city you’d be most likely to fly into. You might also consider visiting Dresden for its baroque architecture and wealth of artworks; Leipzig, which is a centre for German arts and culture; and the old university city of Heidelberg, one of the few German cities to emerge virtually unscathed from World War II.
We’re planning a driving tour of Scotland, starting at Edinburgh and including Inverness and Glasgow. Can you recommend areas of interest to visit on the way?
P Evanson, Katoomba, NSW
From Edinburgh, you could drive east to South Queensferry to pick up the Forth Valley Tourist Route, which ends at Stirling, running along the south side of the Firth of Forth. Along the way you’ve got castles, palaces, ruins, the site of the famous battle of Bannockburn and UNESCO World Heritage sites, the Forth Rail Bridge and Antonine Wall. From there, cross to Kincardine on the north side of the River Forth and pick up the Fife Coastal Route, which takes you to just south of Dundee. You might spend a couple of nights here then continue to Aberdeen and take the Highland Tourist Route north to Inverness for a night or two. Then head for Fort William, stay overnight and start at the northern end of the Argyll Coastal Route, which ends on the shores of Loch Lomond. From there, Glasgow is just a short drive.
Travel advice is general; readers should consider their personal circumstances.
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