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First look: Luxe Bar Morris brings Italian-accented food, drink and design to an unlikely city strip

Incoming chef Rosie Scatigna is serving up her grandmother’s focaccia and 𝄒nduja madeleine at Hotel Morris’ 40-seat wine bar on Pitt Street.

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

1 / 14 Steven Woodburn
Head chef Rosy Scatigna.
2 / 14Head chef Rosy Scatigna.Steven Woodburn
3 / 14 Steven Woodburn
𝄒Nduja madeleine.
4 / 14𝄒Nduja madeleine.Steven Woodburn
5 / 14 Steven Woodburn
6 / 14 Steven Woodburn
Spagettone with celeriac, hazelnut and bay leaf.
7 / 14Spagettone with celeriac, hazelnut and bay leaf.Steven Woodburn
8 / 14 Steven Woodburn
9 / 14 Steven Woodburn
Pesce acqua pazza with sea urchin butter.
10 / 14Pesce acqua pazza with sea urchin butter. Steven Woodburn
11 / 14 Steven Woodburn
Flank steak with Cafe de Morris butter.
12 / 14Flank steak with Cafe de Morris butter. Steven Woodburn
Salumi with gnocco fritto and mussels gratinate.
13 / 14Salumi with gnocco fritto and mussels gratinate. Steven Woodburn
Pear frangipane tart with amarene and bitter chocolate sorbet.
14 / 14Pear frangipane tart with amarene and bitter chocolate sorbet.Steven Woodburn

At the Haymarket end of Pitt Street, a rare “interwar palazzo”-style building from architect Virgil Dante Cizzio sits in a precinct littered with Thai restaurants and Asian food shops.

Sydneysiders will get their first look at the reimagined interior on Wednesday, June 14, when Hotel Morris and its 40-seat wine bar, Bar Morris, open.

The Italian-inspired 1929 building has landed a young Italian chef, Rosy Scatigna.

Salumi with gnocco fritto and mussels gratinate.
Salumi with gnocco fritto and mussels gratinate.Steven Woodburn
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Last spotted in the kitchen at Shell House and earlier at Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe, Scatigna uses a few playful references to Bar Morris’ Asian food neighbours in her cooking.

There’s a splash of fish sauce in her prawn marinade, for example, and the occasional secret ingredient. But mostly, Scatigna will tap her Italian heritage.

The 30-year-old head chef uses her grandmother’s recipe of spelt flour and garlic for Bar Morris’ focaccia, and there’s 𝄒nduja madeleine (cheesy savoury sponge, enriched with guanciale and 𝄒nduja emulsion).

𝄒Nduja madeleine.
𝄒Nduja madeleine.Steven Woodburn

The wine list sways between Australia and Italy, and the cocktail line-up includes the Negroni Speziato, made with gin infused with Chinese five spice, plus a touch of amaro.

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Bar Morris’ leather-clad walls, marble bar and velvet banquettes get their first workout on June 14-17 with a four-night collaboration between Scatigna and Mmabatho Molefe from Cape Town restaurant Emazulwini as part of Vivid’s new Chef Series. After that, Scatigna will fly solo.

Open daily breakfast and lunch; Tue-Sat dinner.

412 Pitt Street, Haymarket, barmorris.com.au

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/first-look-luxe-bar-morris-brings-italian-accented-food-drink-and-design-to-an-unlikely-city-strip-20230602-p5ddg5.html