A distinct trend is emerging in our top restaurants that can only be described as an Australian way of doing things. It’s a service that is skilful but relaxed, warm without being fussy. Above all, it reflects the culture and philosophy of that restaurant. At Pipit in Pottsville, just north of Byron Bay, front-of-house manager Alice Dwyer is the human face of that change.

With formative training at Sydney’s Rockpool Bar & Grill and Est, she sees her role as synergistic, caring for guests and staff alike. It’s a tight team, so chefs are skilled at table service and waitstaff will jump into the kitchen when needed, their common goal being to provide excellent hospitality.

“Because our menu is so focused on giving people the full Northern Rivers experience, the service has to reflect that as well,” she says. “We need to embrace the things that make us different.”