At Albert Park’s new neighbourhood bar Wally’s, you won’t find a wine list but a wine “book”, as owner Baxter Pickard describes it. With 300 bottles and counting, ranging in price from $50 to $2000, it’s the work of a self-described wine nerd who’s also behind online bottle shop Grapeful.

But where Grapeful focuses on affordable, organic and biodynamic drops, Wally’s embraces classic French and Australian wines, with an emphasis on rare and back-vintage bottles Pickard has acquired at auctions. Among them are Macedon Ranges producer Bindi, Tasmania’s Tolpuddle, Yarra Valley’s Mount Mary, Heathcote’s Jasper Hill, and famous French producers Romanée Conti and Vincent Dauvissat.

They’ll partner snacky, broadly European dishes by head chef Damon McIvor (ex-Vex Dining, Waxflower) that will evolve regularly, even weekly. There might be flatbread smeared with smoked celeriac and pepita butter; heirloom carrots with black garlic and whey; lamb pastrami with kohlrabi and celery; and cured bonito ferried on a bite-sized hash brown.

McIvor weaves in other influences in the salt and vinegar dadinho de tapioca, his take on the crisp yet chewy Brazilian cheese cubes that might be familiar to early Waxflower patrons.

“He wanted to stick to the snacky, smaller plates,” Pickard says. “I think Albert Park really lacks that.”

Those after a heartier meal will always have a pasta and a protein to choose from, starting with spaghetti alla chitarra with mussels, and sliced sirloin in Bordelaise sauce.

The Euro influence is even more pronounced in the fit-out. Brass tabletops and velvet banquettes, French-imported brass shield mirrors, vintage champagne buckets, and a marble-topped bar and waiter’s station are all reflected in the antique mirrored ceiling.

The chic Studio Ami-designed space has 25 seats inside and 24 outside, where dogs are welcome (Wally’s is named after Pickard’s 11-month-old groodle).

Pickard is a previous Albert Park resident and lived in the area through lockdowns, so he’s had plenty of time to get acquainted with the neighbourhood.

“I think relaxed dining, elegantly done, you just can’t find it here,” he says. “I don’t want it to be too over-the-top, we’ll just [have a] really good … offering in a comfortable environment.”

Open Tue-Thu 3pm-late, Fri-Sat noon-late, Sun noon-6pm.

67 Cardigan Place, Albert Park, 03 9969 2208, wallysalbertpark.com.au