• Sydney's top 20 bars
• Two Aussie bars make it onto World's 50 Best longlist

A drink poured by someone else is a beautiful thing, and after the ups and downs of the past few years, Melburnians have a renewed appreciation for the artform.

The spirit of the city's bar scene is more alive and ambitious than ever, with a wealth of pioneering new cocktail spots, world-class wine bars and well-loved locals pulling down the limited-capacity signage and welcoming us back with open arms.

Whether you're after a textbook martini, a hard-to-find sake, a booze-free craft brew or a glass of something fancy, fizzy or funky – or all three – you'll find it here. So, what'll it be?

Above Board

COCKTAIL BAR

Ascend the nondescript staircase and step into another world at this tiny 16-seat cocktail bar, where every detail is meticulously considered. The hushed room is dominated by a dark, glossy wooden bar, behind which you won't see any drinks – everything is decanted and hidden away. Visionary owner-operator Hayden Lambert and team execute refined classics (an orange-spiked martini, perhaps) and unusual but no less considered creations (Montenegro, blackberry and absinthe – together at last). A 2021 appearance on the World's 50 Best Bars list only reinforces its legendary status.

Level 1, 306 Smith Street, Collingwood, no phone, aboveboardbar.com

Bar Romantica

NEIGHBOURHOOD BAR

All moody lighting, terrazzo and scarlet leather, Bar Romantica is a space in which to swoon. Park yourself at the bar with a classic Italian amaro or a peach-scented French aperitif, or slide into a booth and traverse the lengthy, two-tiered wine list (over and under $90). Both components favour sustainable and biodynamic producers, the same philosophy that guides the kitchen. It's led by new recruit Jack Short (last seen at Mauritian restaurant Manze). He's plating up scallops with herb-flecked butter, pumpkin-stuffed agnolotti, and wood-fired pizza.

52-54 Lygon Street, Brunswick East, 03 9191 9410, barromantica.com.au

• Michael Harden reviews Bar Romantica

Benchwarmer

BEER BAR

Somewhere between beer hall, bottle shop and izakaya, this candy-coloured casual hangout is a paradise for craft-brew fans. A preference for hard-to-find booze means you might be drinking a rare Firestone Walker Barrel-Aged Strong Ale, but there are crowd-pleasers, too, like a yuzu-infused, koji-inoculated Edge rice lager. There's also a smattering of small-batch wines, a sake-forward negroni, and a light, lemony rendition of chicken karaage (pictured). Whatever it is you decide to down, the best place to do it is outside, under the fairy lights in the courtyard.

345 Victoria Street, West Melbourne, 03 9329 5979, benchwarmerbar.com.au

• Dani Valent reviews Benchwamer

Bijou Bottle Store

WINE BAR

You want to be early – or lucky – to nab a table at this swanky drink-in bottle-o. The walk-in-only wine bar seats just 25 and has a compact menu to match. Perch at a high-top and choose from hundreds of wines that line floor-to-ceiling shelves, then order the cracking grilled triple-cheese sandwich (that's as substantial as the snackage gets). Expect plenty of independent, interesting drops (maybe a savoury Canary Islands grenache, grown in volcanic soil), any of which guests can nominate to be opened and sold by the glass.

194 Little Collins Street, Melbourne, no phone, bijoubottlestore.com

Bouvardia

COCKTAIL BAR

It's not hidden per se, but you need to know Bouvardia is there. Find the inconspicuous Bourke Street entrance and climb two flights of stairs to reveal a rippling, green-hued marble bar stocked with almost-all-Aussie spirits and churning out some seriously inventive seasonal cocktails. There are just 10 on offer, each taking up to three months to develop. Expect inventive techniques and surprisingly harmonious combinations such as olive leaf, fino sherry and white chocolate. Upstairs is sibling Pomelo, a sunny rooftop drinkerie doing house seltzers and slushies perfect for summertime.

Level 2, 169 Bourke Street, Melbourne, no phone, bouvardia.com.au

Byrdi

COCKTAIL BAR

Toasted corn husk. Banana caramel. Tasmanian wasabi. The ingredients of a classic cocktail these are not – but nothing about Byrdi is typical. It's by Luke Whearty and Aki Nishikura (formerly of lauded Singapore bar Operation Dagger), who combine a low-waste, hyper-local ethos and fine-dining flair (pre-cocktail amuse bouche, anyone?) in a minimalist, earth-toned space tucked inside a shopping centre. This approach extends to the food, and to other drinks from progressive producers such as Wildflower and Memento Mori.

211 La Trobe Street, Tenancy GD075, Melbourne, byrdi.com.au

• Michael Harden reviews Byrdi

Black Pearl

COCKTAIL BAR

Internationally renowned and with good reason, Black Pearl has been stirring, shaking and straining for more than 20 years. The Brunswick Street institution has a well-awarded bartending alumni, and has paved the way for many of the city's most creative bars. The easygoing-but-expert team whips up world-class creations in a way that seems effortless – and it's open until 3am at weekends, too. So if the city's most talented bartenders aren't already working here, they'll probably be in shortly for knockoffs.

304 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, blackpearlbar.com.au

Caretaker's Cottage

BAR

It might be heaving on a Friday night, and there may be Guinness on tap, but this isn't your typical city boozer. The century-old church building was transformed by cocktail collective Fancy Free (Rob Libecans, Ryan Noreiks and Matt Stirling, all ex-Black Pearl) into a raucous 50-person party palace with decks behind the bar, a pro-dog policy and drinks in a league of their own. Nothing hangs around for long, but past cameos include a rich Penicillin Milk Punch with a Talisker float, and a first-rate Rob Roy with house vermouth and seasonal bitters.

139-141 Little Lonsdale Street, Melbourne, no phone, caretakerscottage.bar

The Everleigh

COCKTAIL BAR

When you consider the number of awards under its belt, it's not surprising The Everleigh has spawned so many imitators. Zara and Michael Madrusan's ode to the art of tending bar takes a purist's approach to mixed drinks, right down to the hand-cut ice from sister company Navy Strength Ice Co. Old-world glamour permeates the room, from gold velvet seating to the elegant chandelier hanging over the bar, a gift from Michael's grandmother to celebrate opening his first venue (they've gone on to open Heartbreaker, Connie's and Bar Margaux). A cocktail bar for the ages.

Level 1, 150-156 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, 03 9416 2229, theeverleigh.com

Good Measure

COCKTAIL BAR

And so, the sea of Italian eateries parted, and Melburnians walked into Good Measure, Lygon Street's new cool-kid hangout. There's a warm, organic feel to the terracotta-toned interior (styled on neighbourhood cafes of Japan and Korea), which has more minimalist wooden shelving than Ikea. There are cocktails, craft brews and sake on tap, but the most exciting mixed drinks are made to order. A blood-orange martini is big on toasty macadamia notes, and a clear White Russian is made with goat's milk yoghurt-washed whisky and a house bergamot liqueur. On tunes? Vintage vinyl albums played in their entirety.

193 Lygon Street, Carlton, no phone, @goodmeasuremelbourne

Heartbreaker

DIVE BAR

A loose 'n' loud tribute to the dingy dives of the US, Heartbreaker is wall-to-wall red neon light, with a pool table and a jukebox blasting the likes of Queen, Bowie and AC/DC. Complete the picture with a Miller High Life or Pabst Blue Ribbon or peruse the impressive selection of spirits, where you'll find plenty of American whiskey and bourbon. Bottled Manhattans and martinis are by The Everleigh Bottling Co., owned by the same group. It's open until 3am at weekends.

234a Russell Street, Melbourne, 03 9041 0856, heartbreakerbar.com.au

• Michael Harden reviews Heartbreaker

Lay Low

COCKTAIL BAR

Lay Low isn't the kind of place you discover by accident. The entrance to this incognito drinking den is squished between a residential home and a dry-cleaning shop, but soon opens up to a roomy, plant-filled space serving cocktails that pack a punch. There's a semi-sweet take on mulled wine made with rosé, bolstered with pisco and pear liqueur; a burly brandy, wattleseed and macadamia concoction dedicated to Dame Edna; and an adults-only Ribena you can order by the carafe.

Rear, 93 Buckley Street, Seddon, 0455 032 238, laylowbar.com.au

• Michael Harden reviews Lay Low

Mono-XO

NEIGHBOURHOOD BAR

Everyone on Mono-XO's team of just four can switch roles. One chef is a sometime kitchen gardener. A waiter occasionally changes into bartending mode. It's all so that – despite its size – the 22-seater doesn't have to compromise. Not on immaculate cocktails like the fresh, fruity take on a Blue Lagoon, or the mar-tiny (which is exactly what it sounds like). Not on the tight-but-adventurous wine selection. And not on chef-owner Sam Stafford's punchy 10-strong menu, much of it executed on a suitably tidy hibachi grill. Don't skip the crusts-off scallop sando.

Rear, 191 Smith Street (enter via Charles Street, Fitzroy, 0401 170 520, monoxo.com.au

Navi Lounge

COCKTAIL BAR

There's a lot to love about this moody offshoot to Yarraville's destination fine diner Navi. Snacks you can experience for a fiver, a fraction of the price next door. Drinks as imaginative and considered as we've come to expect from chef-owner Julian Hills, largely treading an ultra-local, hyper-seasonal path. Ingredients such as loquats and Geraldton wax are foraged locally (the latter from West Footscray), cherry blossoms are made into cordial, and there's a bottlebrush bitters in the works, too. Another plus: walk-ins are welcome.

83b Gamon Street, Yarraville, 03 9939 9774, restaurantnavi.com.au

• Besha Rodell reviews Navi and Navi Lounge

Nighthawks

DIVE BAR

"Be nice or leave." That's the guiding principle at rock 'n' roll hangout Nighthawks, and good times generally follow. In the main bar, walls are lined with band posters and artwork from the owners' travels in the US and Japan, and a fairy light-wrapped staircase leads to a band room hosting the city's best up-and-coming indie artists. There's a leafy beer garden out back, and drinks are cheap and mostly local – Melbourne Bitter, Jameson et al. Add welcoming staff, and you've got yourself a dive bar with a heart of gold.

136 Johnston Street, Collingwood, nighthawksbar.com.au

Shabooh Shoobah

NEIGHBOURHOOD BAR

Hootan Heydari of Wide Open Road and Heartattack and Vine is behind this understated neighbourhood gem, a former butcher shop and a crash-course in wine bar interior design; its bar wood-panelled, its walls distressed, its concrete floors polished. Start with a mandarin-infused Tom Collins or a sour cherry Cosmopolitan then delve into wine from a one-page list that'll please both traditionalists and new-wave fans. Spectacularly simple Spanish-leaning snacks include boquerones with potato chips, and one-bite manchego-artichoke skewers.

59a Melville Road, Brunswick West, 03 9917 2702, shaboohshoobah.com

• Michael Harden reviews Shabooh Shoobah

Tamura Sake Bar

SAKE BAR

Thirty-seat Tamura is the stuff of small-bar dreams. Owner Fumi Tamura is usually found behind the U-shaped bar that takes up most of the room, slinging records and sake – both sourced from small-batch producers and both representing an eclectic mix of expressions and styles. His partner and chef, Takako, heads up the kitchen, responsible for happily sake-adjacent snacks such as hand-made gyoza, tsukune (chicken meatballs skewered and fried) and ramen made either with chicken broth, or kombu and shiitake.

Shop 1, 43 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, 03 9417 1992, tamurasakebar.com

• Gemima Cody reviews Tamura Sake Bar

Tetto di Carolina

COCKTAIL BAR

This elevated pre-party spot in South Yarra is by the same crew behind Il Bacaro, Marameo and Bar Carolina, so it's no surprise there's an Italian stamp on everything from the killer cocktails and Sicilian, Piedmontese and Tuscan wine on the list to the gorgeous grass-fed steaks, staggeringly good triple-cooked chips and bright, zingy green salads. The swish space is a lesson in lambent lighting, with dome-shaped lamps casting a gentle glow over the whole scene.

48 Toorak Road, South Yarra, 03 9867 7954, tettodicarolina.com.au

• Gemima Cody reviews Tetto di Carolina

Trinity

BEER HALL

It's a church hall no more, but there are subtle nods to this St Kilda spot's former life if you know where to look. The arched doorway remains, and flowers and greenery over the bar give off distinct Garden of Eden vibes. The Gospel Manhattan – a hefty hit of rye whiskey, dry vermouth and cherry bitters – will feel holy to some. Twelve taps pour all-Aussie beers, while outside a reconditioned 1960s Airstream churns out topnotch burgers like the popular Baconator, a wagyu burger stacked with American cheese, bacon and barbecue sauce.

2 Brighton Road, St Kilda, 03 8591 3000, trinitystkilda.com

Waxflower

WINE BAR

Everything's dialled up at Waxflower, a lively off-Lygon listening bar akin to those in Tokyo. The beige-heavy space was created with acoustics in mind, with air pockets and wood wool in the walls diffusing sound. In place of a back-bar there's a vinyl wall where DJs and record collectors play jazz, disco, soul and more. If the eclectic minimal intervention wine list doesn't hook you, one of the rarer off-menu drops might. Pair your vino of choice with charred half chook or rump cap, both cooked on the new wood grill.

153 Weston Street, Brunswick, 0420 876 574, waxflowerbar.com.au