A Brunswick pub tucked away from Sydney Road’s watering holes just got an old-but-new facelift, courtesy of the team that took a similar approach with The Royal Oak in Fitzroy North last year.

Sporting Club Hotel has reclaimed the name etched on the outside of the 1890s building, and now offers an atmosphere and menu worlds away from the pub’s most recent life as the Charles Weston, named for the intersection it sits on.

Led by publicans Will Benjamin, Cal Hitchens, Ryan Crick, Ollie Smith and Guy Wells, some of whom are also involved in Fitzroy’s ever-popular Marquis of Lorne, the Sporting Club boasts the group’s signature mix of contemporary pub fare sans tricks, a craft drinks line-up and a cosy, lived-in look.

“Our pubs need to talk to the personality of the area, both in history and at the time,” says co-owner Ryan Crick. “We kind of evolve with locals.”

Designers Studio Co & Co (Rocco’s Bologna Discoteca, The Royston) drew on some of the pub’s features from the late 19th century Arts and Craft movement and spun them into a fit-out that features custom light shades in Tasmanian oak and stained-glass transom windows by local maker Fool’s Glass.

The corner pub now has a large wrap-around front bar (previously one side was boarded up), two dining rooms, a cosy back bar with fireplace (one of four) and a generous beer garden with retractable awning, with a total capacity for 450.

Despite the change of name, it’s not going to be a sports bar.

“We wanted to have that space that’s welcoming to everyone, versus being a ‘pub’ pub where the sport’s on loud,” says Guy Wells.

In the kitchen, executive chef Scott Stevenson (also of The Royal Oak) and head chef Cian Fenaughty (ex Cutler & Co, Pinotta) are having fun with the pub brief in dishes such as cauliflower Kyiv, savoury wagyu doughnuts and a prawn cocktail roll.

Stevenson says he’s striving for familiar dishes given subtle twists. To that end, he’s offering mussels in vadouvan butter, grilled quail with a wedge of cos dressed Caesar-style and spaghetti with pipis.

“Our pubs need to talk to the personality of the area, both in history and at the time. We kind of evolve with locals.”

Co-owner Ryan Crick

Marquis of Lorne’s much-loved rockling burger is also on board and weekday lunches are set to do a roaring trade in three-tier club sandwiches for $25. Chips come with gravy, Keen’s curry powder sneaks into a few dishes and there’s bread and butter pudding for dessert.

These retro flourishes suit the rabbit warren of rooms, which are lined with timber panelling and bold patterned carpet in rich tones of gold, ruby and purple, offset by olive-green walls.

The overall effect is warm yet substantially brighter than previously, thanks to large skylights in the dining room and additional arched windows up front.

Open daily noon-late

27 Weston Street, Brunswick, 03 9996 1869, sportingclubhotel.au