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New owners aim to return Healesville Hotel to its glory days

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

There’s a renewed energy at the Healesville Hotel after a subtle facelift and menu overhaul by new owners Scott Connolly and Matt Vero, the pair who also updated the Orrong Hotel in Armadale in 2021.

“We’re pretty light on touch in terms of renovations,” says Connolly. “For us, the beauty is these beautiful old buildings. We want to accentuate what’s already there.”

A view of the Healesville Hotel’s revamped public bar.
A view of the Healesville Hotel’s revamped public bar.Pete Dillon

The pressed-tin ceilings, fireplaces and Yarra Valley mural in the dining room of the 1912 building remain intact, but there’s fresh paintwork in lush shades of green, larger patron capacities, and a new children’s play area in the backyard. Bentwood chairs and bar stools have replaced the Parisian cafe chairs, and high tables have been installed in the public bar to make it feel more casual.

“We’re pub guys. We want a place where you can stand around a tall table and have a couple of beers and a glass of wine,” says Connolly.

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The Healesville pub was built in 1912 and features pressed-tin ceilings and fireplaces.
The Healesville pub was built in 1912 and features pressed-tin ceilings and fireplaces.Pete Dillon

The Yarra Valley destination won The Age Good Food Guide’s regional restaurant of the year award twice (2006 and 2014) and was regularly awarded at least one hat under previous owners Michael Kennedy and Kylie Balharrie. The hospitality power couple took over the pub in 2001 and even expanded it to a cafe, butcher shop and nearby organic kitchen garden. Balharrie later departed.

Approachable Italian dishes are dotted throughout the dining room and public bar menus by new chef Ella Stevens, who is making spaghetti and reginette, lacing sausage rolls with fiery ’nduja and slowly cooking Otway pork butt with sage and rosemary to serve alongside polenta. Pub classics, like a parma with ham, are along for the ride.

Broccoli spaghetti with chilli, walnut and parmesan is one of several house-made pasta dishes.
Broccoli spaghetti with chilli, walnut and parmesan is one of several house-made pasta dishes.Pete Dillon

Stevens, who previously worked in Sand Hill Road pubs including The Terminus in Abbotsford, is adopting the Italian way of sourcing as locally as possible, using Ramarro Farm vegetables, Stone & Crow cheese and brussels sprouts from a farm “five kilometres up the road”.

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Reinvigorating the wine list was a focus for the new owners, who have selected Italian grapes and local drops from Seville Hill, Soumah and others.

Connolly and Vero say their families have long histories with Healesville, whether for day trips to equestrian tournaments or family lunches at the pub. After three years of patchy trade and staff shortages, they’re keen to re-establish the hotel as part of the community.

“We just want to bring the old girl back to life,” Connolly says.

Open daily noon-late; dining room open Wed-Sun noon-late

256 Maroondah Highway, Healesville, healesvillehotel.com

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Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/new-owners-aim-to-return-healesville-hotel-to-its-glory-days-20230811-p5dvq4.html