DOC Mornington, the middle child to DOC in Carlton and Albert Park, epitomises the finer things in life - fresh produce, a seaside location, a lively atmosphere of music, pizza clatter and Italian chatter - in a relaxed, unfussy setting. Long communal tables inside erupt with family gatherings while the outside tables ringing the perimeter are perfect for sunset wine and a mozzarella degustation. The menu is deli-fresh and simple - a good antipasto will arrive on a wooden paddle with crumbed olives, some ruched prosciutto and a mini rotolo, while salads, such as warm black rice and tuna, are stylish and restrained. Pizzas are given a similar treatment, as thin, crisp, flour-dusty bases bubble volcanically around the edges, encircling considered combinations such as Italian sausage with creamed broccoli and mozzarella, chicory with gorgonzola and lemon, or porchetta with jujube fruit mustard and radicchio.