'Conceived in Italy, born in Carlton, now living happily in Mornington': the blackboard motto sums up this (relative) newcomer to the DOC family nicely. This peninsula outpost of the burgeoning pizza and pasta empire appeals immensely for its no-nonsense cooking of top-notch imported produce and a frenetic atmosphere oiled by the brusque charm of the small army of Italian waiters. Pizza is the main boasting point of the paper placemat menus plonked on the communal tables: crisp yet pliable bases needing only the simplest of toppings, like tiger prawns, endive and fresh chilli with a touch of mozzarella and sugo. Wooden paddles come bearing the softest cured meats from the hanging room - San Daniele prosciutto with a globe of Italian buffalo mozzarella, white anchovies and shaved fennel is a meal unto itself. Pasta such as a meaty lasagne mightn't hit the heights of the Lygon Street DOP pasta sibling, but finish on a flourish with warmed panettone drizzled with chocolate balsamic.