Are you ready for a Footscray renaissance? With feeder roadworks nearing completion and the new Footscray Hospital soon to open, residents and business owners are ready to shrug off the suburb’s reputation as a troubled hotspot and embrace vibrancy and opportunity. The suburb is one of Melbourne’s most multicultural and diverse, with almost half of all residents born overseas. More than 80 languages are spoken in the broader Maribyrnong council area, which is anchored by Footscray, seven kilometres and three train stations from the city.

“I’m amazed how people are open to trying different flavours in Footscray,” says Revekah Hurtado, owner of Latin American restaurant Papelon, looking around at tables full with people of many nationalities. “Footscray is dynamic, a little chaotic but in such a good way. People use the neighbourhood: you see someone at a local barber, then the bread shop and later a restaurant. There’s a sense of community that you can really feel.”

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Papelon is in Footscray Market, an important hub for the suburb.

“The area isn’t fully gentrified so the market helps people who are struggling with the cost of living,” says Howard Stamp, owner of Bar Thyme. “There’s quality food at lower prices … It brings people into the area, they go shopping, have lunch, it’s great for foot traffic.”

Stamp was looking northside before he landed on Footscray, opening his business in 2021. “I love the feel: it’s very multicultural, everyone is trying to do something different, no-one is competing,” he says. “Footscray is awesome. I wouldn’t move anywhere else in Melbourne.”

Discussing pho broths, noodles, toppings, price and style is an endless neighbourhood topic.

This guide travels more or less west to east through Footscray, with Barkly Street (which morphs into Hopkins Street) as the spine.

Plough Hotel

Pouring beers since 1868, the Plough rolls out pub traditions with polish. There’s usually some kind of special on, whether it’s $5 tacos on Wednesday, $15 pizza on Friday or Sunday roast. Anytime is a good time for the porterhouse with creamy mash and garlic beans. If you really want to lean into a Footscray eating adventure, there’s accommodation upstairs.

333 Barkly Street, Footscray, ploughhotel.com.au

Matsu

The Japanese kaiseki (tasting menu) hideaway has expanded from its four-seat launch pad down the road to this spacious but still boutique 12-seat restaurant, where detailed seasonal menus include dishes dramatically seared over rice straw. Bookings are hard-won for the $265 set-menu experience. Try your luck online to snare a seat or gather a group of 10 to arrange a private meal.

275 Barkly Street, Footscray, matsuxbar.com

Ras Dashen

After a modest renovation, this 14-year-old Ethiopian stayer has new furniture and artworks but the same warm welcome. Owner Wondimu Alemu recommends the clay tibs: lamb chops with broccoli and cauliflower served on a claypot. There’s plenty for vegetarians, including the warming, sustaining vegie firfir with injera (fermented flatbread) mixed into a stew.

247 Barkly Street, Footscray, orders.wowapps.com/order/rasdashen

Bar Thyme

What a cracking little wine bar. Homely but classy, it’s got creative cocktails (I love the Lilly Pilly Pie with housemade lilly-pilly liqueur, rosella and lime), food that’s on par with any of Melbourne’s sip-and-snack high-flyers, and a consummate host in owner Howard Stamp. Snack on housemade wild boar mortadella or fluffy chickpea panisse fingers with pecorino, or settle in for a feed-me dinner with matched wines.

227 Barkly Street, Footscray, barthyme.com.au

Abol Africa

Simple ingredients are melded with careful touch at this modest Ethiopian restaurant, run by Hadas Gebreegzabher whose family has a long history of feeding people in Addis Ababa. You can’t go wrong with a combination of fresh, vibrant stews piled on spongy injera, a fermented flatbread. There’s also homemade tej, a honey wine, served in a traditional flask.

221 Barkly Street, Footscray

Roti Road

At one of the larger places in the ’hood, flaky roti is the centrepiece of a Malaysian menu that covers staples such as skewers, wokked noodles and laksas. Roti canai includes dipping sambal, dahl and curry, and there’s plenty for vegans and gluten-avoiders. For dessert, it has to be the towering roti tisu, scrolled into a tower and brushed with condensed milk.

189-193 Barkly Street, Footscray, rotiroad.com.au

Sushi Takezo

Matsu’s former home has been taken over by Takeshi Murakami, who ran the Japanese kitchen at Langham Melbourne for over a decade. He’s expanded the space to six seats (from four) and serves omakase sushi menus, using seasonal fish from trusted suppliers, matched with sake and French wine. Murakami is doing everything from shopping to washing up in an effort to keep prices down. He’s confident his $185 menu is of similar standard to far more expensive sushi counters around town. Public bookings are open from August: this will be one of Melbourne’s hottest tickets.

157a Barkly Street, Footscray, sushitakezo.com.au

Mr West Bar & Bottle Shop

This two-storey retail-bar destination is one of Footscray’s most important players. Downstairs, there’s a bottleshop with more than 200 artisanal beers, spirits and wines. Upstairs, there’s an outdoor deck and bar to enjoy rotating craft beers on tap, natural wines, fun cocktails, charcuterie and cheese. You’re also welcome to order in from local restaurants.

106 Nicholson Street, Footscray, mrwest.com.au

Coco Bananas

Grab one of 3011’s best coffees in this caffeination hub and record store, where you can browse new and used records (Tubular Bells box set, anyone?) while your toastie sizzles.

32 Chambers Street, Footscray, cocobananas.com.au

The African Calabash

In this pedestrianised part of Nicholson Street also known as Little Africa, Colin Walcott-Taylor’s restaurant serves West African food. Think jollof rice and egusi, a spiced soup made from blended pumpkin seeds, which is served with pull-apart fufu, a soft bread made from pounded yam.

143 Nicholson Street, Footscray, theafricancalabash.com

Caminito La Boca

Ever since Roxana Santa Maria Lopez was a girl in Argentina, she dreamed of having a bodegon – casual, family-run restaurant – just like the ones she visited with her grandfather. Decades later (2024, to be exact), the Lopez family opened Caminito, a brightly painted drawcard for empanadas, asado, churros and more. It’s open from morning till night.

205-207 Nicholson Street, Footscray, caminitolaboca.com.au

Addis Cafe & Roastery

Mel Dominique has been here for 20 years, sourcing coffee – mostly from his native Ethiopia – roasting it on-site and brewing it into strong espresso to have at Addis or take away. Food straddles Australia and Africa: maybe you want a salad sandwich today, split pea curry tomorrow.

226 Nicholson Street, Footscray, addiscafeandroastery.com.au

Say Cheese

Tucked down historic Trocadero Arcade, this happy hangout is serious about curds and carbs. The classic grilled cheese (one of 12 sandwiches) uses mozzarella, cheddar and provolone, sparked up with chilli flakes and mustard seeds. Horchata, the milky spiced rice drink, is available hot or cold.

6/119 Hopkins Street, Footscray, instagram.com/saycheese_footscray

Kariton Sorbetes

Askal chef John Rivera’s Filipino-forward gelato joint has four Melbourne shops now (Burwood, Glen Waverley and Chinatown) but Footscray is the original. Swing in for textured scoops like turon – banana with butterscotch, jackfruit and shards of spring roll pastry.

50 Leeds Street, Footscray, karitonsorbetes.com

Nhu Lan Bakery

The frustrations of this banh mi favourite’s long queues are also its guarantee of freshness. Rolls are baked on-site and stuffed to order with roasted and barbecued meats. If you’re on a Footscray food crawl, it’s worth knowing that they do small rolls too, and you can get one smeared with just pâté and mayo for under $5.

116 Hopkins Street, Footscray

Yummie Hong Kong Dim Sum

Grab supplies for home at this decades-old store, where dumplings are deftly folded out back and sold in handy freezer packs. There’s also grab-and-go. The hot tip is to buy a custard tart and eat it on a street wander.

5/7-9 Leeds Street, Footscray

Elka Sushi

The whole fish hanging in the window tells you this is not your average high-street sushi joint. Sit on a plush chair at a marble table for signature maki rolls like the yuzu-miso king salmon, and kaisendon, a rice bowl lavishly topped with fish. Drinks are from a Japanese vending machine, and there’s takeaway, too.

2/7-9 Leeds Street, Footscray, instagram.com/elka.sushi

D&K Live Seafood Shop

A legend in Melbourne seafood and supplier to many restaurants, this is not just a great spot to buy crab, lobster, fish and oysters straight from the tanks. You can also choose from a large variety of oysters and have them shucked to order for slurping right there.

2/28A Leeds Street, Footscray, instagram.com/dkliveseafood_official

Divine Hotpot Train Buffet

Here’s a train that’s never delayed. Take a seat by the Divine tracks and hotpot ingredients will slowly trundle by, allowing you to pluck vegetables, noodle cakes, sliced meat, dumplings and more. Pop them into your own bubbling broth and cook as desired. It’s all-you-can-eat fun.

102 Hopkins Street, Footscray, instagram.com/divinehotpot

T. Cavallaro & Sons

The third generation of Cavallaros is now custodian of this atmospheric store, which opened in 1956 to sell cannoli to Olympics spectators at the MCG. Cannoli are the mainstay, filled to order so they’re always crisp, and best eaten straight away with an espresso.

98 Hopkins Street, Footscray, tcavallaroandsons.com.au

Papelon

Owner Revekah Hurtado showcases food from all over Latin America at her friendly, spacious restaurant on the edge of Footscray Market. Come for filled Venezuelan-style arepas, incredible cassava chips and patacon, similar to loaded fries but with a plantain base.

Footscray Market, 190/81 Hopkins Street, Footscray, instagram.com/papelonmelbourne

Xuan Anh Banh Cuon

Silky, slippery rice rolls, steamed to order, are the draw at this popular market stall. You can’t go wrong with No.1 – minced pork and black fungus scattered with fried shallots − but we’re also fans of the version stuffed with a long and crisp fried doughnut known as quay in Vietnamese (No.10).

Footscray Market, 194/81 Hopkins Street, Footscray

Huu Huu Thanh Restaurant

You wouldn’t want it to be easy to pick a favourite pho in Footscray: discussing broths, noodles, toppings, price and style is an endless neighbourhood topic. Huu Huu Thanh often gets a mention for its deeply flavoured chicken and beef pho, made daily and usually sold out around lunchtime. Also consider their creamy, comforting congee.

Footscray Market, 18 Irving Street, Footscray

Moon Dog Wild West

The old Franco Cozzo furniture store is now a huge beer barn with a cowboy theme. A mechanical bucking bull is the centrepiece: if you’re keen on being thrown around, perhaps do it before you knock back boozy ginger ale, fish tacos and jerk chicken.

54 Hopkins Street, Footscray, moondog.com.au