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Six new sandwich joints worth queuing up for (including the new home for popular Stefanino Panino)

These hot new inner-north openings are sure to satisfy any lunchtime cravings. Cue the queues!

Daniela Frangos

You might think the last thing the inner north needs is another sandwich joint. But the lunchtime queues suggest otherwise. Melburnians’ hunger for things betwixt bread shows no signs of abating. Whether you’re after fresh or toasted, an Italian panino, banh mi or New York deli-style number, here are six new arrivals to wrap your hands, and mouth, around this summer and beyond.

The Bologna at Stefanino Panino.
The Bologna at Stefanino Panino.Justin McManus

Stefanino Panino, Collingwood

Stef Condello, owner of Stefanino Panino, now in Collingwood Yards.
Stef Condello, owner of Stefanino Panino, now in Collingwood Yards.Justin McManus

Anyone en route to this superstar sandwich spot after peak hour knows to check its Instagram storiesfirst, lest you arrive to find the cupboards are bare. Such is the popularity of this Italian-inspired panino shop by former school teacher Stef Condello and his mum, Diana. Now the Condellos have upped stumps from Brunswick to Collingwood, bringing the Bologna (mortadella, stracciatella, pickled peppers and olives), Roma (porchetta, roasted peppers, provolone, rocket and dijon mustard), Caprese (salami, tomato, basil and buffalo mozzarella) and all their tasty friends, all sandwiched between ciabatta rolls from Natural Tucker. When it opens on Friday, November 24, the bigger site will have indoor and outdoor seating, an espresso machine and hopes of an eventual liquor licence. And queues, no doubt.

Must-try sandwich: Bologna – mortadella, stracciatella, pickled peppers, olives $16

35 Johnston Street, Collingwood, instagram.com/stefanino.panino

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The Elvis sandwich at UGO.
The Elvis sandwich at UGO.Fabio Risi

UGO Cucina Popolare, Fitzroy

The Cannoleria crew has brought its signature porchetta from its Heidelberg West paninoteca to a Fitzroy pop-up, setting up shop at a forthcoming apartment development over spring and summer. From 11am, Friday to Sunday, the team is carving slow-roasted pork, tender and herby on the inside and crisp on the outside, and serving it five ways. Get it sandwiched between semolina focaccia in the “OG”, perhaps, or on potato focaccia in the “Elvis”, dressed up with pickled capsicum, zingy lemon and creamy caciocavallo cheese. Head there earlier (8am until noon) for breakfast items such as a “McUGO” – pork and fennel sausage and That’s Amore burrata on an English muffin – and a waffle stacked with porchetta, shaved pecorino and a drizzle of honey. Finish off with piped-to-order Cannoleria cannoli and a St Remio coffee.

Must-try sandwich: The Elvis – porchetta, pickled capsicum, lemon and caciocavallo in a potato focaccia ($15)

Open Fri-Sun, 8am-3pm, 369 Gore Street, Fitzroy, ugo.com.au

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Spazio Paradiso, Carlton North

Carlton North just scored a new panino shop, slinging familiar combos of Italian-style sandwiches to-go. Come for combos like mortadella, stracciatella, green split olives and crushed pistachio; and porchetta with provolone, marinated eggplant and basil pesto. Or build your own. Every sandwich is packed into chewy ciabatta from nearby Natural Tucker Bakery. Owners Jamie Georgopoulos and Meika Khong were inspired by their travels to Milan and its many sandwich shops and mercatos. As such, you’ll find dried plants, garlic braids and chilli peppers strung up around the no-fuss space (or “spazio”), plus Italian pantry staples such as taralli biscuits, tomato sugo and legumes to take home. The team is selling out as soon as 12.30pm some days, so go early.

Must-try sandwich: The Godfather – ham, fior di latte, marinated eggplant, tomato pesto and spinach ($16)

Open Wed-Sat, 10.30am-2.30pm, 709 Nicholson Street, Carlton North instagram.com/spazio_paradiso

Good Days Hot Bread, Brunswick

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The Good Days crew’s lockdown hustle selling banh mi was cemented this winter with a dedicated hot bread shop on Sydney Road. Owner-chef Nam Nguyen has assembled a menu of classic banh mi combinations made with local and free-range meat, chicken or fish stuffed into crusty bread rolls from N Lee. Think five-spice rubbed pork belly with crunchy crackling, an umami thwack of XO-seasoned mince and fresh coriander gremolata plus a vegan version made with crisp, pressed tofu, puffed tofu “crackling” and mushroom pâté. The minimal diner, with its laminate and stainless steel detailing, is a spin on old-school Vietnamese-owned bakeries. It’s also serving eclairs with filling like pandan cream, plus Vietnamese coffee.

Must-try sandwich: XO Porchetta – five-spice pork belly, XO mince, pork crackling, coriander gremolata ($16)

Open Mon-Fri 10am-3pm, Sat & Sun 10am-4pm, 644 Sydney Road, Brunswick, good-days.com.au

Crowd favourite, the roast chicken and pesto sandwich at Donny’s Deli.
Crowd favourite, the roast chicken and pesto sandwich at Donny’s Deli. Supplied

Donny’s Deli, Brunswick

Blink and you’ll miss this no-fuss sandwich shop, which opened near the Moreland and Sydney roads intersection over winter. Its menu of toasted sandwiches and bagels is also halal, and comes from the team behind Coburg’s florist-cafe Grounds of Eden, which also supplies the bread and pastries. Find customary items such as tuna melts and Reubens, a crowd-favourite roast chicken and pesto sanga, and bagels that are a vehicle for slabs of chicken schnitzel with red cabbage and truffle mayo. The interior merges delis old and new via white tiles, PVC curtain strips and a pantry section lined with hot sauce, pickled peppers, chilli oil and bread, ready to spruce up your own sandwiches at home. There’s also Allpress coffee and Donny’s merch.

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Must-try sandwich: Pesto chicken – roast chicken, kewpie mayo, pesto, pickles, swiss cheese and lettuce ($14)

Open Mon-Fri, 7.30am-3pm, and Sat & Sun 8am-3pm, at 170A Moreland Road, Brunswick, instagram.com/donnysdeli

Coming soon

JollyGood, Collingwood

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The same stretch of Johnston Street home to Stefanino Panino is soon to be spoiled for carb choices. Chef Raphael Exton-Pery is expanding his Jolly Good brand with an American-style diner opening next to Collingwood Yards in December.

The current sandwich menu, featuring the classic French dip (a roast beef roll with a sidecar of gravy) and a New York Deli number stacked with cold cuts, peppers and Swiss cheese, will expand to cover breakfast and dinner. Think pancakes, bottomless filter coffee and American pies by day and a “signature” cheeseburger and cocktails at night. Exton-Pery will keep things hyper-local with bread from Dench Bakers, veggies from Collingwood distributor Natoora and tap beers from Collingwood’s The Mill Brewery. The flagship restaurant will focus on dine-in service (with cosy booths, a large communal table and bar seating) while the Fitzroy site at Near & Far bar will stay put, rebranding as JollyGood Junior.

Must-try sandwich: French Dip – prime roast beef, Swiss cheese, mustard and horseradish sauce with gravy for dipping ($18)

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/brunswick-east-s-loss-is-collingwood-s-gain-as-cult-sandwich-joint-moves-plus-five-more-new-spots-to-try-20231120-p5elef.html