Chef Travis Rodwell honed his skills at Circa and Dispensary Enoteca. In a tiny kitchen out back of his friendly, unpretentious, well-priced bistro he char-grills quail as an entree that's served with zingy bois boudran sauce and palate-freshening shallot, tomato and parsley salad. Bendigo also loves him for excellent charcuterie, confit duck and other French classics given a fresh, local twist.