In summer this seaside eatery overflows with happy holidaymakers. House-made pasta is king, like glossy parcels of beef casoncelli with porcini cream sauce, enjoyed indoors among the Tuscan colours and butcher's paper, or in the low-lit back courtyard. Italian-accented staff may recommend specials, like sumptuous roasted spatchcock. Try the tiramisu; it's as good as everyone says.