With its tableside saucing, dessert trolley and caviar service, the opening of The Charles Grand Brasserie & Bar on Friday, October 21, ushers in a level of luxe the Sydney CBD hasn't fully embraced since a posse of Olympics-era dining temples rode into town.

The Charles might be putting the grand back into grand brasserie, but culinary director Sebastien Lutaud stresses they are trying to "celebrate the charm of old-school hospitality without the stuffiness".

Maybe so, but the layered interior from architects H&E and COX, copper-plated duck presses and impressive joinery make for a timeless fit among the buildings' palatial art deco bones.

Executive chef Billy Hannigan, who spent eight years at The Ledbury in London before returning home, describes the menu as European with a generous ladling of French technique.

"The duck a la presse is classic French but throughout the menu we draw on British, Italian, Austrian and eastern European influences," he says.

Hannigan will open with a volley of sweetbread and crayfish vol-au-vent, mud crab with fennel cream and a "grand" schnitzel Viennese topped with salted roe.

He's also found time to recruit rising star Rhiann Mead, who ran the pastry section at Quay and Bennelong.

"We'll do a few different takes on classic chocolates on the trolley.

There'll be cakes, it'll build during the day, it creates a bit of excitement," Mead says.

The Charles is the second outing from Etymon Projects, which dipped its toe in the Sydney market with the 2021 launch of Loulou Bistro, Boulangerie & Traiteur in Lavender Bay, and is an ambitious play in a crowded CBD market.

It's really three venues in one. Next door to the brasserie is a separate bar where you can start the day with melon and jamon Iberico and duck eggs topped with caviar and end it with chicken liver parfait, while downstairs sister venue Tiva also opens this week.

The basement lounge, Tiva, will feature live music daily.

Charles Brasserie open daily, lunch and dinner.

Charles Bar open daily, breakfast, lunch and dinner.

66 King Street, Sydney