The Great Ocean Road is right up there with some of the world's greatest coast-hugging drives: California's Big Sur, Italy's Amalfi Coast and the 2500-kilometre Wild Atlantic Way, tracing Ireland's untamed serpentine west coast.

An overnight stay at the Portarlington Grand Hotel, on Victoria's Bellarine Peninsula, provided the spark to tackle the nearby sinuous stretch of bitumen – prosaically known as B100 – which officially begins as it exits Torquay and ends, 243 kilometres later, when it T-bones the Princes Highway at Allansford, a half-hour shy of historic Port Fairy.

But it's not just a drive. It's a three-day road trip, port to port: Portarlington to Port Fairy, via a port, with a sleepover in Port Campbell.

With it comes a chance to take it slow, drink in spectacular vistas of the Southern Ocean and the world-famous coastline. And sample some of the best places to eat, drink and make merry along the way.

Day 1: Portarlington to Port Campbell

Portarlington

Take it slow, drink in spectacular vistas of the Southern Ocean and the world-famous coastline.

You could spend a day exploring around Portarlington on the Bellarine Peninsula before hitting the Great Ocean Road. Within striking distance of the seaside town you have wineries (Terindah Estate, Jack Rabbit, Scotchmans Hill) and must-visit restaurants Moonah and La Cantina at Common Ground Project. But this time, we go straight to Torquay.

Torquay

Start early with a caffeine hit from Ocean Grind, a cavernous space incorporating roastery, retail and cafe, tucked away in an industrial estate. A robust brew and almond croissant get our engine purring.

Pond on The Esplanade is another coffee go-to; or Mortadeli, where owner Jake Cassar rustles up a mean toastie. In the same retail courtyard, he's also opened a stylish Euro-friendly grocery, sharing space with Tim Harrington's Fishmonger.

Above Mortadeli is upmarket Japanese newcomer Toki, where we circle back for lunch after a scenic tootle along the Surf Coast.

The set menus offer the best overview of Toki's well-crafted modern Japanese cuisine, featuring such evergreens as sushi, tempura, scallop carpaccio and Japanese wagyu sirloin. Or try the more wallet-sympathetic seven-course lunch menu.

Owner Bryan Mu says the restaurant caters as much to locals as discerning Melburnians. In the court downstairs, he also has more casual Shinya Ramen & Bar and Yakiniku Hachibeh.

Also highly rated: The Kyn, serving up Middle Eastern-influenced meals from chef James White; and Samesyn from Zimbabwe-born Graham Jefferies.

Anglesea

We don't stop, but drop a line at Fish by Moonlite, where the cooked-to-order fish comes battered or grilled.. Jums Chicken also comes locally recommended.

Aireys Inlet

Le Comptoir is a Gallic-inspired wine bar and deli serving simple plates and cheese, helmed by French-born Samuel Roig-Sclafer, who also runs The Lighthouse Tea Rooms with wife Asher. "We were sick of just making toasties," says Roig-Sclafer.

Next door, sample gins by the tasting tray from the Great Ocean Road Gin Tasting Room; or over a bite at The Gin Kitchen alongside, from a menu of Asian favourites. Huge raps from locals, too, for long-player A La Grecque, opposite The Aireys Pub.

Lorne

The road into Lorne is full of gut-churning blind corners, zigzags and hairpin bends tracing the cliff faces, and signs galore cautioning foreign drivers to keep left. But if you don't have Daniel Ricardo wannabes on your hammer, it's a fun drive with some of the road's best ocean prospects.

We don't stop, but vow to return for lunch on the homeward trip for Jo Barrett's new kitchen Little Picket at the Lorne Bowls Club. Also consider Greek dining institution Ipsos; and keep an eye on the Lorne Hotel, under Matt Germanchis (ex Captain Moonlite and Fish by Moonlite), where Sydney restaurant king Justin Hemmes is expected to open Totti's in March.

Apollo Bay

We stop at the Apollo Bay Fishermen's Co-op for local-caught rockling to cook for dinner. Most tourists, though, head for the co-op's harbourside outlet to tuck into grilled southern rock lobster with garlic butter.

We call into Tastes of the Region – a one-time drive-through bottle-o-turned-tasting room attached to the Great Ocean Road Brewhouse to grab a Leura Park riesling and a tasting paddle of craft beers from Otway brewer Prickly Moses.

Apollo Bay is the last major town before the road turns inward, skirting around the Great Otway National Park, and bringing a complete change of scenery, more eucalypt forests and fern gullies than Surf Coast.

Day 2 Port Campbell to Port Fairy

Port Campbell

We drop anchor for the night at Anchors, comfortable, well-appointed modern cottages with a panorama of rolling farmlands, township and ocean.

Try Real Pizza to see sustainable dining up real close. Owner Kylie Treble asks diners to choose ingredients/toppings by packaging (from none and recyclable to returnable and compostable) and origin (from local and regional to Australian and international) so you control your level of sustainability.

With more than three-quarters of the Great Ocean Road behind us, there's time to explore nearby limestone landmarks studding the sculptured coast, such as the 12 Apostles and Loch Ard Gorge.

And time for a bit of sideways touring on the Otway Harvest Trail: first to Apostle Whey Cheese for a tasting with dairy farmer Julian Benson (the blue-vein Bolte's Bonanza is a banger); then Timboon Railway Shed Distillery for lunch. Forget the food (for a moment) and prepare to be gobsmacked by the 185 bottles from 92 Australian distilleries lining the bar wall.

"This is only 20-30 per cent of available Aussie craft spirits," says Charlie Johnson, distillery brand ambassador and self-proclaimed spirit guru, who's tried them all.

You can sample anything on the wall but the tasting paddle of the distillery's own whiskies is the best place to start. Then call in to Timboon Fine Ice Cream, over the road, to finish. There are 24 flavours and you can try before you buy.

We loop back for the final stretch of Great Ocean Road, past several more awe-inspiring formations (London Bridge, Bay of Martyrs) – you see why these jagged shores are also known as the Shipwreck Coast – before it doglegs inland to Nullawarre, a blip on the map that's either the road's first or last town, depending on the direction you're pointing.

Port Fairy

With the Great Ocean Road conquered, we continue to Port Fairy – via Frolic, an eclectic bar in Warrnambool – before dropping anchor a second time at stylishly revamped The Oak & Anchor Hotel.

We duck in for a pre-dinner tipple at The Ombibulous Project, a mood-lit bar from ex-architect Damon Clausen-Brown and wife Leesa. Clausen-Brown's Stuart McIntosh Smash and cider cocktails hug you like long-lost friends.

Then onto the food highlight of the trip: dinner at 14-seat Fen, which unfortunately will close on February 25. Instead, perhaps, try Merrijig Kitchen, which leans on its garden and local producers for inspiration.

Day 3 Port Fairy to Melbourne

With breakfast at bustling Bank Street + Co over, heading home presents possibilities. Hamilton Highway is the fastest route. Leaving the Princes Highway for lunch at Brae the more expensive.

Rather, we barrel back to Lorne, via Koroit's Noodledoof Brewing and Distillery, for Little Picket. At lunchtime, the room is buzzing. None of the 60 seats is spare. It's obvious why: Barrett is making modest nosh such as fish ceviche, potato cakes and Otway pork schnitzel extraordinary.

In the bowlo's compact kitchen, the respected chef is being run off her clogs. No sweat, though. It's happy craziness. "It's so much fun," Barrett chimes.

And just there, she sums up our road trip, as we jump back into the motor for the final leg home. So. Much. Fun.

Paul Best travelled with the assistance of Visit Victoria.