SPQR Cucina in Mont Albert is officially open, after several false starts caused by the Omicron wave last summer and ongoing staff shortages.

"We've got a great team now and we're ready to rock," says co-owner Tom Gaden.

Compared to sister restaurant SPQR Pizzeria in Melbourne's CBD, this is a more fleshed-out proposition, with pasta, main courses, snacks and dessert joining the pizza party (and it is a party, with soundtracks by Gaden, who is also a DJ).

Pork scallopini with broccoli rabe joins whole flounder from the wood-fired oven, gnocchi with sauteed chicory, and calamari and sugo tossed through tiny pasta rounds called agnelli. Smaller dishes include wood-grilled garlic prawns and fried polenta with romesco.

Pizzas retain their SPQR identity, grouped into red and white bases with toppings such as house-made pork-and-fennel sausage with roasted grapes, pickled and roasted fennel with pecorino, and 'nduja, ricotta and basil. Takeaway is also available.

Situated in a leafy strip of shops, the venue has heritage features such as stained glass windows out front, which give way to walls of bold street art. A rear courtyard, upstairs dining and a parklet out front bring the total seats to 110.

The drinks list draws on Italy for inspiration, whether that's vermouth, Italian grape varieties, limoncello or cocktails.

Thursday to Saturday lunchers might spring for the $25 menu: soup, a panini or small pizzette and cannoli.

Open Thu-Sun noon-3pm, Wed-Sat 5pm-9pm.

11 Hamilton Street, Mont Albert, 03 9890 4836, spqrpizzeria.com