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Port Fairy's two-hatted Fen restaurant to close in early 2018

Fen owner-chef Ryan Sessions.
Fen owner-chef Ryan Sessions. Eddie Jim

Port Fairy's two-hatted fine diner, Fen, has announced that it will close its doors on January 27, 2018.

After three years serving some of the best dishes in regional Victoria, owners Kirstyn and Ryan Sessions have decided that it is now time to take a break. "This has been a tough decision as we love what we do" says Kirstyn. "But we are really looking forward to taking a break, recharging the batteries and simply enjoying the rest of summer in this beautiful part of the world".

Ryan Sessions' abalone and shiitake dish.
Ryan Sessions' abalone and shiitake dish.Eddie Jim
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Ryan Sessions style, defined by a deep love of native ingredients, first made its mark on Port Fairy when he was cooking at the Merrijig Inn. After a sojourn in Hepburn Springs, the husband-wife duo (Kirstyn manages the floor) the pair returned three years ago and opened the restaurant as the Stag at Seacombe House.

Following a renovation of the old bluestone dining room and a name change, Fen acquired two hats in the 2018 National Good Food Guide for its wild-yet-grounded menu, starring local abalone, desert limes, muntries and foraged greens from the nearby shores.

So is this the end of the road for Fen? "We've worked very hard to create something really special; from the food to the service to the brand, so it's going to be really hard to leave it all behind" says Ryan. "If the right opportunity presented itself down the track, we would certainly look at it, but for now my focus is on taking a well-earned break from the kitchen".

Limited tables are still available for bookings between now and January 27; fenportfairy.com.au

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/port-fairys-twohatted-fen-restaurant-to-close-in-early-2018-20171221-h08ai4.html