Do you like your kebabs old-school (roasted garlic yoghurt) or new-school (Kewpie mayo)? That's one of the tough decisions you'll face at the counter at Biggie Smalls, chef Shane Delia's Collingwood kebab diner, which opened on Thursday.

That and how many serves of hot crinkles (crinkle-cut chips slathered in spiced butter and preserved lemon) you can tuck away before fellow diners raise an eyebrow.

The skinny 40-seat New York-style diner, kitted out in buttery yellow and pale grey tiles, has been two years in the making.

It's named after late American rapper Biggie Smalls, who would probably have given the thumbs-up to both the '90s hip-hop soundtrack and the menu, which bundles things like spiced beef kefta and onion and cumin hummus, or fried chicken and pumpkin pie hummus into thick rounds of pita bread.

It's an order-at-the-counter situation. While you're there, decide whether you'll grab your kebab to go or slide into a booth or perch on a stool to sip a can of beer or a boozy gin and juice slushie.

Open Sun-Wed 11am-11pm; Thu-Sat 11am-late.

86 Smith Street, Collingwood, biggiesmalls.com.au