In the space of a decade, Ivana Valvasori-Pereza and Joel Valvasori-Pereza have transformed a cafe in a quiet Subiaco walkway into a key Australian-Italian wining and dining experience.

While the success of Lulu La Delizia is a culmination of many factors, most will agree that ace handmade pasta, a strong grasp of Northern Italian flavours, plus the room’s rollicking atmosphere, are integral to the restaurant’s identity.

This winter, Lulu’s is growing its hospitality toolbox with the opening of a cosy 24-seat, no-reservations cantina next door to the mothership. But where Lulu’s channelled and reimagined the homely, wine-soaked osteria of the Old Country, its offshoot has taken things in a more brutalist direction.

A handsome travertine counter anchors the space: the stone’s cool curves being mirrored by the amber-glassed gantry bar suspended overhead. Polished concrete and bare stone wells scarred by a tiler’s trowel give the room a real timeless quality. Bentwood chairs and stools underscore Lulu’s European sensibilities. A designed-by-committee space this ain’t.

“This isn’t a separate business, but part of Lulu’s,” says Joel Valvasori-Pereza who enlisted local studio Rezen to bring the space to life.

“We want this to be a real Italian cafe.”

Unlike the all-day cafes of Italy, the cantina won’t open from early morning, but staff will keep the coffee machine on from lunchtime until close. The good news, however, is that the new space gives chef-patron Joel Valvasori-Pereza and head chef James Higgs the opportunity to explore an area of joint interest: Italian-style panini.

Just as Lulu La Delizia launched in 2016 with its starting five pastas, the cantina’s initial daytime sandwich line-up will also number just cinque. Combinations such as sausage with milky scamorza cheese, plus rare roast beef with rocket are a nod to the tramezzini (crustless sandwiches) found at train stations across Italy. A panini freighting coppa, provolone and pickled capsicum, meanwhile, is inspired by a sandwich once ordered by Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (the Jersey mobster, naturally, referred to the dry-cured salami we call coppa by its American-Italian nickname, “gabagool”.) Two vegetarian panini will also be available while the cantina will be stocked with ciabatta bread baked by Il Granino.

Later in the day, the cantina shifts focus to aperitivo: the wondrous Italian ritual of pre-dinner drinking, snacking and conversation. (“Aperitivo” sounds so much nicer than “pre-loading”, right?) A concise one-page drinks list with a strong Northern Italian flavour – plus locally brewed Dingo Lager on tap – will be offered alongside a menu of cured meats, olives, crisps and other snacky pleasures.

Although it’s being pitched as a pitstop for either side of a Lulu’s experience, the cantina can also stand alone as its own destination. Evening guests will also be able to order the restaurant’s renowned meatballs, a daily changing pasta special, plus its grappa-spiked tiramisu. Notably, the expansion also allows team Lulu’s to host functions and private events: something that management have been reluctant to do.

“I’ve always hated the idea that people would come to your restaurant, and you’d be closed for the night for a private function,” says Valvasori-Pereza.

“The way social media works now, you’re lucky if someone sees your post saying that you’re closed in the first four days. With this space, people can book something here and we can close it off and look after them while Lulu’s is still giving guests 100 per cent of itself.”

Lulu La Delizia’s cantina (5/97 Rokeby Rd, Subiaco) is due to open in June.