Melbourne is about to enter a second week of lockdown, but wine star Campbell Burton (ex-Trader House group) is keeping busy. He's putting the finishing touches to his Fitzroy North wine sanctuary, Public Wine Shop, to welcome Ali Currey-Voumard, the chef who helped Tasmania's Agrarian Kitchen earn two hats in The Good Food Guide 2018.

Burton initially planned to use an event space upstairs as the dining room. Instead, the pair have agreed on an intimate open plan arrangement downstairs, where 18 guests will sit at the windows or around a new communal table and watch Currey-Voumard prepare an evolving a la carte menu from Thursday to Mondays.

There will be no grill; just a stove and bench where Currey-Voumard (ex Cumulus Inc, The Builders Arms Hotel) might make fresh pastas and sauces – an exciting prospect for those who remember her cloud-like dumplings and carbonara from the Agrarian Kitchen. There will be substantial dishes such as a poached chicken and mustard greens number designed to make dining solo simple. Most red meat will likely be served raw as tartare or as charcuterie.

Small-batch, high-quality wine is Burton's schtick, a philosophy he shares with Currey-Voumard, who gained a love of building daily menus from chef Harry Lester at Restaurant Le Saint Eutrope in France.

On Tuesday and Wednesdays, Voumard's days off, the wine bar will serve Meatsmith terrines, hot baguettes and salads.

Lockdown willing, Voumard's first menu will drop on June 25.

179 St Georges Road, Fitzroy North, publicwineshop.com.au