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Calle bakery rolls into Rathdowne Street, Standing Room cafe opens in Fitzroy and Louise brings Brazilian baked goods to South Melbourne

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

Lychee and Earl Grey croissant wheel, the cult item at Calle Bakery in Carlton North.
Lychee and Earl Grey croissant wheel, the cult item at Calle Bakery in Carlton North.Justin McManus

Rathdowne Street bakery Calle is attracting queues for its croissant wheels: spirals of glossy pastry wrapped around an oozy filling in flavours ranging from black sesame to chocolate.

Available only on weekends, the pastry pucks change flavour each month. October's new flavours are chocolate with freeze-dried raspberry, and Earl Grey with lychee and white chocolate.

Other pastries include yuzu and honey croissants, and a filled chocolate-hazelnut croissant, alongside staples like escargots and fruit danishes.

Pastry chef of 25 years Huey Phung is responsible for these and baguettes, seeded sourdough loaves and pretty tarts, while his wife Vivian Ly takes care of the rest of the business.

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They've opened the bakery with Ly's sister and named it after the Spanish word for street.

Rosso Coffee, roasted in Tullamarine, is available along with Mork Chocolate and Prana Chai, and there are a handful of outdoor tables under cover.

Standing Room owners Thomas Kelly and Jordan Taylor in their IF Architecture-designed cafe.
Standing Room owners Thomas Kelly and Jordan Taylor in their IF Architecture-designed cafe.Justin McManus

Standing Room made a name for itself opening hole-in-the-wall cafes offering speedy specialty coffee. But it's just graduated to its first full-service cafe, opening a few blocks away from Calle in a handsome corner building in Fitzroy North.

Designed by IF Architecture, the 25-seater feels extra spacious thanks to a subtle palette of cream, blond timber and grey.

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Founder Thomas Kelly jokes that there is still some standing room, with a large oval-shaped high table that accommodates six.

Head chef Jack Beck (ex Kumo Izakaya) prepares breakfast congee, Welsh rarebit, or cilbir: the Turkish dish of soft eggs in yoghurt with chilli. There are also pastries supplied by Wildlife in Brunswick East, plus sandwiches, cookies and cakes made in-house.

Standing Room's cilbir eggs with labne and Aleppo butter.
Standing Room's cilbir eggs with labne and Aleppo butter.Justin McManus

Kelly, who started the business at age 20, says he's excited to be doing table service and taking Standing Room to new places after nine years.

Design flourishes include textured clay tiles on the coffee bar, a bespoke light installation by Edward Linacre, and a display cabinet that juts out from the bar to invite browsing. A large 1960s-style pendant light in a burgundy colour matches the front door and outdoor furniture in the parklet, which seats 25 and gets midday sun.

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Louise Bakery, in a prime position opposite Albert Park, is generating enthusiasm among the Brazilian community for its selection of coxinha (croquettes), pastels (similar to empanadas) and cheese-topped flatbread.

Photo: Supplied

Anne Louise Duarte, a Rio De Janeiro transplant, opened the business in August and is thrilled to see people coming in to try her coxhina (pictured), which are filled with either chicken or mushroom.

The small shop, which seats 10 under a canopy of plants, offers danishes (including rhubarb or apple-cinnamon), sandwiches and almond croissants for nearby office workers, alongside the Brazilian specialties which draw expats on weekends.

There are also flaky Brazilian-style pies in four flavours, cheese puffs known as pao de queijo, acai with granola, peanuts and chocolate syrup, and the soft drink guarana, which manager Alanna Silva says is the Coca-Cola of Brazil.

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Standing Room, 187 St George's Road, Fitzroy North, standingroomcoffee.com.au

Calle Bakery, 649 Rathdowne Street, Carlton North, calle.com.au

Louise Bakery, 164 Albert Road, South Melbourne, louisebakery.com.au

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Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/calle-bakery-rolls-into-rathdowne-street-standing-room-cafe-opens-in-fitzroy-and-louise-brings-brazilian-baked-goods-to-south-melbourne-20220930-h26ub8.html