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Rome’s best places to eat and drink

By Maria Pasquale
Updated
This article is part of Traveller’s Destination Guide to Rome.See all stories.

Rome’s food scene is as fascinating and eclectic as its history. Generational trattorias serve classics, young Roman chefs flirt with tradition and neon-lit cocktail bars do mixology right. Here, the old mixes with the new on every level and exciting trends continue to bolster the culinary scene to consistently position it as one of the world’s great food capitals.

Idylio by Apreda

East meets west
Located inside The Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel, Idylio bears all the hallmarks of chef Francesco Apreda’s signature style, with Mediterranean flavours of his native Naples woven together with international and oriental twists picked up from his stints working in London and Tokyo. The result is fresh and innovative, with quality and service which have earned it a Michelin star. There is no a la carte option here, with diners choosing from one of Apreda’s personalised set-menus to devour in the warmly-lit, orange-hued dining room.
Piazza dei Caprettari 56/60 00186, Rome. Phone: +39 06 8780 7080. See thepantheonhotel.com

Il Pagliaccio

Credit: Aromi.group

The finest dining with a sprinkle of fun
One of Rome’s most respected fine dining restaurants, the two-star Il Pagliaccio serves stunningly intricate dishes by chef Anthony Genovese which creatively combine flavours, memories and travels, with eastern influences seamlessly blending with Italian tradition and high-level techniques. The dining room is pleasantly unstuffy, the perfect surroundings for Genovese’s quirky, theatrical food which can’t help but make you smile and savour. True foodies will delight in the 14-course Parallels Experience, a true culinary and sensorial journey served in a separate room with a private table.
Via dei Banchi Vecchi 129/a 00186, Rome. Phone: +39 06 6880 595. See ristoranteilpagliaccio.com

Osteria La Quercia

The prettiest piazza for comfort food
Tucked away in a tranquil backstreet piazza, La Quercia seems tailor-made for long Sunday lunches or intimate dinners for two. The menu is unfussy, allowing the carefully selected, premium-quality ingredients to truly shine. Roman pasta classics such as Carbonara and Amatriciana rub shoulders with influences from all over Italy including the Venetian Sarde in Saor (marinated sweet and sour sardines) and the Piemontese ravioli del plin, given a Roman injection with an oxtail filling. Try to score one of the handful of outside tables and dine with a backdrop of Roman gorgeousness.
Piazza della Quercia 21 00186, Rome. Phone: +39 06 6830 0932. See osterialaquercia.com

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Piatto Romano

Fresh flavours and Roman traditions
A relative newcomer to the old-school area of Testaccio, Piatto Romano has nevertheless made its mark on the city’s food scene thanks to its interesting and ever-changing menu. Depending on the day you might find perfectly-executed pastas, the freshest fish and meat, and often offal-based dishes in nod to the neighbourhood’s past (Rome’s slaughterhouse was once located here). Don’t miss the outstanding seasonal starters and sides which bring to the fore wonderfully fresh vegetables and zingy salads, as well as the fabulous desserts, all to be washed down with a shot of homemade genziana (gentian liqueur).
Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni 62, 00153, Rome. Phone: +39 06 6401 4447. See piattoromano.com

Trapizzino

Innovative Roman streetfood
Over the last 15 years pizza-maker Stefano Callegari’s patented streetfood, Trapizzino, has grown from its one-shop beginnings to become a successful brand with locations all over Italy and even a New York outpost. The simple concept, a triangle of pillowy pizza bianca bread stuffed with old-time recipes such as chicken cacciatore, meatballs or eggplant parmigiana, hit a nerve with Italians who hate to mess with the classics but do appreciate a well-thought-out revisitation. Head to the Trastevere branch where outside seating spills across lively Piazza Trilussa and the menu of trapizzini and fried supplì rice balls is accompanied by a great selection of Lazio wines and beers.
Piazza Trilussa 46, 00153, Rome. Phone: +39 06 581 7312. See trapizzino.it

Trattoria da Teo

Quintessentially Roman
If you are on the hunt for a typical, no-frills, trattoria then Da Teo ticks all the boxes. As well as the outside tables in a picturesque Trastevere piazza, there is a well-worn grandma-style dining room which perfectly befits the menu of local specialities that couldn’t be more Roman if it tried. Start with some golden stuffed zucchini flowers before opting for a classic, creamy, Carbonara and a plate of charred abbacchio scottadito (lamb cutlets), washed down with a bottle of local red Cesanese and a good dose of Roman ambience.
Piazza dei Ponziani 7A, 00153, Rome. Phone: +39 06 581 8355. See trattoria-da-teo.menu-world.com

Osteria Da Francesco

Historic osteria in the heart of town
Da Francesco has been serving up its menu of Roman staples and wood-fired pizzas for the last 60 years making it a bit of a Roman dining institution. Situated right near Piazza Navona, an area famous for its tourist trap eateries, the genuine food and bustling atmosphere here bring with them equal amounts of relief and appreciation. With a daily specials chalkboard, an extensive wine cellar and a kitchen open straight through from lunch until dinner, it’s a great option for authentic, quality cuisine in the heart of the city.
Piazza del Fico29, 00186, Rome. Phone +39 06 686 4009. See dafrancesco.it

Zia

Credit: Zia

Contemporary fine dining
Modest fine dining and wining never disappoints and chef Antonio Ziantoni’s precision, passion and talent is boundless. Awarded a star in the Michelin guide in its first year, Zia changes the menu seasonally as you’d expect and presents a variety of meats such as sweetbreads and prize cuts from duck to guinea fowl. Risotto and pastas stand out and acclaimed pastry chef Christian Marasca’s delights dazzle, particularly the spectacular Tourbillon. Add delightfully competent staff and the vibe here is creative and innovative. Yet Zia isn’t fussy and the overall experience leaves you satisfied and, quite simply, plain happy.
Via Goffredo Mameli, 45, 00153, Rome. Phone: +39 06 2348 8093. See ziarestaurant.com

Pulejo

Credit: Pulejo

Nordic interiors, Italian flavours
Opened in 2022, Pulejo in Rome’s Prati district has already achieved greatness in the form of its first Michelin star. Chef and owner Davide Puleio says his brand of fine dining is about comfort and service, not formality, and this philosophy permeates his menu. His humble rise has taken him to London, Copenhagen, Milan and finally back to his native Rome. Signature dish, Mi-Ro is saffron risotto topped with oxtail and is Milan and Rome on a plate. With minimalist interiors, creative dishes and straightforward service, it’s no wonder Pulejo has taken a well-deserved seat at the table of Rome’s finest gourmet restaurant.
Via dei Gracchi, 31, 00192 Rome. Phone: +39 06 8595 6532. See pulejo.it

Rimessa Roscioli

Credit: Maurizio Camagna

Wine tasting and pairing experience
Food lovers and wine aficionados will love Rimessa Roscioli. Wine tasting dinners have you sampling eight wines with cured meats, fresh mozzarella and seasonal specialities, plus a Roman pasta dish and dessert. The Roscioli name in Rome is synonymous with prized food and wine outlets from deli-style Roscioli Salumeria to Antico Forno Roscioli for bread and pizza and Caffè Roscioli (hands down best club sandwich in town). Keeping with that reputation, Rimessa Roscioli doesn’t disappoint either. Cooking classes and a walking food tour are available, as is an international wine club to have favourite drops delivered to your door.
Via del Conservatorio, 58, 00186, Rome. Phone: +39 06 6880 3914. See rimessaroscioli.com

Seu Illuminati

Credit: Seu Illuminati

Pizza innovation
For gourmet pizza, you can’t go past Seu Illuminati. Pier Daniele Seu started off his career with the best in Rome, Gabriele Bonci, but has put his own stamp on this city. With wife Valeria Zuppardo, he pushes boundaries at this modern pizza restaurant in the quieter part of Trastevere. His pizza is long leavened, making it soft and airy, and he flirts with ingredients. The classics are on the menu but each season brings highly anticipated new creations with anything from truffles and liquorice to cocoa and coffee. Don’t forget to start with fritti (fried treats) as the locals do and leave room for indulgent dessert pizza slices, rarely seen in Rome. Fans of a thinner, more Roman-style crust should check out Seu’s sister location, TAC Thin and Crunchy, located in Rome’s southern suburbs.
Via Angelo Bargoni, 10 - 18, 00153 Rome. Phone: +39 06 588 3384. See seupizza.com

Marzapane

Credit: Marzapane

Bakery meets brunch
Inhabiting a sleek, modern space in northern Rome, Marzapane’s unique formula combines an in-house bakery with a relaxed cafe and bistrot. Open every day from 8.30am until 4pm, you can stop by to grab one of the delectable freshly made pastries for breakfast, or opt for the all-day brunch menu which features everything from French toast, pancakes and eggs benedict to the classic club sandwich. With a trendy vibe and top-notch quality, it’s a great option for easy, lazy dining outside Rome’s often-strict lunch and dinner times.
Via Flaminia, 64, 00196 Rome. Phoe: +39 06 6478 1692. See marzapaneroma.com

Pianostrada

Credit: Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina

Unforgettable flavours, stunning setting
What began in 2014 as a hole-in-the-wall in Trastevere, all-women owned Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina has quietly transformed into a local institution. Their house baked focaccia stuffed with mortadella and ricotta or topped with prosciutto and figs are not to be missed. The deconstructed tempura fried Roman zucchini flowers and daily pasta specials are a hit too. Sit at the open kitchen counter, one of the vintage design table settings or out in the bijou fairy-light adorned indoor courtyard.
Via della Luce 65, 00153, Rome. Phone: +39 06 8957 2296. See pianostrada-laboratoriodicucina.it

Drink Kong

Credit: Alberto Blasetti/Drink Kong

Bright lights and impeccable cocktails
Slick interiors, arcade games and neon lights might try to distract, but your first sip of a Patrick Pistolesi cocktail is what will leave the lasting memory. The Irish-Roman barman revolutionised mixology in Rome and has the accolades to prove it. Cocktails here are mood-based and things like lobster rolls, bao and tacos are on the menu at Rome’s only entry on the World 50 Best Bars list.
Piazza di S. Martino Ai Monti, 8, 00154 Rome. Phone: +39 06 2348 8666. Phone: drinkkong.com

Caffe Doria

Credit: Andrea Di Lorenzo/Caffe Doria

Cocktails and artworks
Caffè Doria sits within the Galleria Doria Pamphili, an underrated gallery that has the city’s most impressive private art collection. Sip expertly mixed cocktails while admiring a Caravaggio in the elegant indoor space or head to the courtyard with its imposing columns for the real showstopper. The creative drinks list plays with infusions and syrups, giving a savoury touch with ingredients such as basil and capers - think a Champagne Risotto cocktail that comes complete with a rice crisp. Add to that, delectable canapés and a gin trolley with over 80 labels.
Galleria Doria Pamphilj, Via della, Gatta, 1, 00186 Rome. Phone: +39 06 679 3805. See caffedoria.it

Da Enzo al 29

Credit: Da Enzo al 29

Classic Roman cuisine and setting
You will need to line up (and for a while) to snag a table at Trastevere’s most popular trattoria, which has developed a cult-like following. Thankfully fame hasn’t affected the quality and the service (friendly and rough around the edges) and dishes (high comfort and high quality) are exactly what they should be. Start off with the burrata; mozzarella and anchovy stuffed zucchini flowers; and when they’re in season, golden fried artichokes. The Roman pasta quartet (carbonara, amatriciana, cacio e pepe, gricia) never disappoints nor does the coda alla vaccinara (oxtail). Don’t leave without trying the mascarpone and wild strawberry mousse.
Via dei Vascellari, 29, 00153 Rome. Phone: +39 06 581 2260. See daenzoal29.com

Armando al Pantheon

Credit: Armando al Pantheon

Carbonara with a view
Steps from the Pantheon, the Gargioli family have served up outstanding Roman fare here for six decades. The classics reign supreme from the carbonara and cacio e pepe to saltimbocca alla romana (pan-fried prosciutto and sage-topped veal cutlets). And whatever is in season ends up on the plate too from puntarelle (Catalonian chicory served with a lemon, olive oil and anchovy dressing) in the cooler months, through to spring, artichokes served braised with calamint or twice fried. Reservations can be made online - don’t turn up without one.
Salita de’ Crescenzi, 31, 00186 Rome. Phone: +39 06 6880 3034. See armandoalpantheon.it

Retro Vino and Caffe

Credit: Retro Vino and Caffè

Small plates and natural wines
The feel is relaxed at this offshoot of Rome’s foraging gem Retrobottega. The all-day coffee and wine bar morphs slowly from breakfast to brunch, lunch to dinner. The ever changing and thought-provoking menu consists of share dishes - think perfectly stuffed pastas and small creative vegetable plates - and can be enjoyed inside on the communal table or outdoors, while the list of natural wines is broad. The Retro brand is for hardcore food and wine lovers.
Via d’Ascanio, 26a, 00186 Rome. Phone: +39 06 6813 6310. See retro-bottega.com

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/traveller/inspiration/rome-s-best-places-to-eat-and-drink-20230110-h292yk.html