Carlton

Sometimes a restaurant comes along that’s so exactly what it ought to be, that embodies its time and place so well, it feels inevitable. But is this a restaurant, or is it a bar? The beauty of Bar Olo (sibling to Scopri) is how successfully it straddles both.

It draws on the Italian history of Carlton, the area’s current boom of excellent cocktail and wine bars, and the best of this city’s hospitality, rolling it all into a package that meets diners on their terms.

Come for a drink, come for a three-course dinner, but don’t come looking for cutting-edge dishes, or to revel in newness. Instead, witness textbook execution of what Melbourne does so well: Italian classics cooked with care, fantastic cocktails, superb wine and exceptional service.

It may appear to be a simple, cosy room, but there’s magic behind those curtains.